uhoh_45 Posted December 31, 2010 Report Posted December 31, 2010 Heres a little desing i drew for ya. If it was me, i'd put the port right in the middle. The outer deminsions are 36" wide, 16" tall, and 24" deep. And the top of the triangle used to make the angle is right at 12" back. It cuts ur sqaure feet down to about 7.98 square feet, but thats still plenty for 2 15's...plus if you seal it off, it will be beast. Hope this helps. where do you get your numbers (see bold) normal square box your left with 6.5 cubes before port/sub/bracing displacement or maybe i dont know how to design a box propperly :noob: but seriously OP if it was me i'd do something like this roughly 6 cubes with a single 6" aero port porting up through the rear deck R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log
Rotten Posted December 31, 2010 Report Posted December 31, 2010 damn.... i wish i had a car to do that shit too ^^^^ -06' f-150... audio.video.performance.visual -08' yfz 450 all go. no sho
JuggaloGodfather79 Posted December 31, 2010 Report Posted December 31, 2010 i have to put my sub box in my back seat cause it wouldnt fit in my trunk with my air ride setup
merk_master Posted December 31, 2010 Author Report Posted December 31, 2010 Heres a little desing i drew for ya. If it was me, i'd put the port right in the middle. The outer deminsions are 36" wide, 16" tall, and 24" deep. And the top of the triangle used to make the angle is right at 12" back. It cuts ur sqaure feet down to about 7.98 square feet, but thats still plenty for 2 15's...plus if you seal it off, it will be beast. Hope this helps. where do you get your numbers (see bold)normal square box your left with 6.5 cubes before port/sub/bracing displacement or maybe i dont know how to design a box propperly :noob: :noob:but seriously OP if it was me i'd do something like this roughly 6 cubes with a single 6" aero port porting up through the rear deck Using the Torres box calculator I would be Using a 6ft^3 box with 2 6" round ports. I'd prefer to leave my rear deck alone as much as possible. I know I am going to have to trim the Fold down seat opening in order to get the box to even slide in so It will be snug in the opening to begin hopeful noob
merk_master Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Posted January 6, 2011 Ok so I like this setup but I am curious on if it would be enough Port area? does anyone know if in theory it would sounds better or worse as (port forward subs up, port back subs up, or both forward sealed? hopeful noob
fritosaregood Posted January 6, 2011 Report Posted January 6, 2011 I would do subs up, from there i would go with port forward. Ive tested a single 15 and sub up port forward was only .1 db down from sub up port back, something unnoticeable except for the extra trunk rattle to get the .1db gain. my worst would alignment would have to be when i tried sub back port forward. Ive also had luck with subs forward and port to the driver side loading into the drivers side behind the rear wheel, Ive only done that with 12s though, not sure how well it will work with a taller box needed for 15s. first choice is subs up port forward second choice is subs forward port drivers side. seller feedback: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=61719 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=68281 build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=44800 Gf's build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/54346-kickergirls-camaro-new-box-pg-5/#entry753970
merk_master Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Posted January 6, 2011 Another question is does deadener really make that much difference? would it help a subs up port forward alignment? hopeful noob
mbdblue Posted January 7, 2011 Report Posted January 7, 2011 I would do subs up, from there i would go with port forward. Ive tested a single 15 and sub up port forward was only .1 db down from sub up port back, something unnoticeable except for the extra trunk rattle to get the .1db gain. my worst would alignment would have to be when i tried sub back port forward. Ive also had luck with subs forward and port to the driver side loading into the drivers side behind the rear wheel, Ive only done that with 12s though, not sure how well it will work with a taller box needed for 15s. first choice is subs up port forward second choice is subs forward port drivers side. I would second that....with terrible numbers. Ive always been a fan of port up subs forward, but honestly man its gonna be your car that makes the difference....and if you do subs up port forward, I would deaden the whole trunk at least. yes it will make a difference, but you will most likely still hear rattle...not from inside the car (although its still a possibility), but outside the car. this also could depend on the car AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco
merk_master Posted January 7, 2011 Author Report Posted January 7, 2011 So lots of expanding foam and Damplifier should take care of alot of rattles hopeful noob
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