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By Paul Kadoshnikov
In regards to the image, here is my design for 2 warden 21" subs. Box is about 17.5 cubes total after displacement and some bracing. Port will be about 12" wide by 22.5" (internal dimensions) long about 33hz tuning (270" port area).
So my question is, I can leave the spot underneath the port without a separator wall, or I can add a separator shown on the right. Aside from adding bracing to the box, would it lower port tuning a little? (in the thought of the air will hit the divider and move up, as if adding some port length?)
If the subs allow I may make the port slightly longer, but tuning would max go to 31hz even if i add 6 inches internally to the port. So I dont think I will extend it if the box allows. The port will be pretty close to both woofers.
I intuitively don't think it'll affect port tuning, but would it cause any issues adding the separator almost up to the port?
Or if anyone has some input on changing where the port goes. The sides are very close to the vehicle walls so a port to the side may not be the best. And there isnt room to port forward.
I think the thread speaks for itself, I wish to buy a CC-1. BUT, I'm in Europe, the Netherlands. The often suggested places to look have 0 stock (bladeice etc.).
And yes, I am aware this is probably a long shot, but I'll try to buy one here for a reasonable price shipped.
By James Gilk
I have a mixer and a mic few in to a CB radio.. it sounds good and clean. How even for efficency I would add some additional frequency filtering...
First for audio amp efficency I would like to cut everything below 80hz and above 3khz (it's questionable if any CB actually broadcast and thing below 100hz ot above 2khz... But...
Second I would like to be able to run some studio monitors without feedback I have adjustable talk back built in to radio but any amount of talk back sets off feedback...
($40 combined)Mic shure pg57, Mixer Behringer Xenyx 502
i am looking for options for relitively inexpensive gear ($50-$75) to complete this task... I know it's a super low budget and understand the quality of gear I am bound to end up with... feedback filtering isn't required and neither is an equalizer but a parametric notch filter low/high filter is...
So the other day my friend came over with his Banda Viking 10k for me to tune and I was unable to tune it with my DD-1 and CC-1. I also had the same experience with a Taramps HD8000. The DD-1 detected clipping at near minimum gain on both amps. I used the -5db overlap track for setting the gains. When I attempted to tune the Banda, I tested the maximum undistorted HU voltage and it was 2.3v. It has a maximum input sensitivity of 3v so I should be able to turn the gain up a bit before hitting distortion but as soon as I turn the gain up just a slight hair, the DD-1 distortion light came on. I heard that the clipping indicators on the amps are accurate so I tried it out. I barely had to move it at all from the DD-1 set point to the amp's clip indicator set point so it seemed accurate to me. Once that was set I moved on to the CC-1. As soon as I hook it up, I get a red signal light with the track playing on volume 1 and even without any track playing at all... wierdest shit I ever saw. No matter what I tried, the signal light stayed red. I've tuned many amps without any issues whatsoever. The only amps my SMD tools didn't work on were those 2 brazilians. Has anyone else had issues tuning brazilians?
I'm kind of new to car audio and I can't seem to figure this out. If you are using a crossover or DSP how do you get power to your tweeters? I don't know any amplifiers that have that low of wattage except 4-channel amps. But then they only have 2 outputs, show what do I do with the other 2 channels?
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