SPL Gains!! Updates @page 30 (routing the port)

[nickers]

was routing the inside edges of the sub holes tested? has anyone tested that? great topic. kind of hard to do all this when your box is pretty well sealed up but do what ya can right.

[SPL KID]

Having the AC on does 2 things.. 1 is it cools the cabin area which some believe the cooler air is easier to move. 2nd and most important thing it does is it kicks in your alternator to maximum output just like turning on your headlights or rolling up or down your windows and turning on your rear defogger does. So the myth really has yet to be proven since you get the alternator boost.

Also I like to thank Feupe2001 for this topic. With couple of tips and Ideas from this post I managed a sealed legal dB Drag style score this sunday (may 22nd) of 149.9 @ 1674 watts from the trunk of my 1995 Acura integra SEDAN 4 door! Making it the loudest 0-1800 watt vehicle in NSPL History so far.I bested out the last best score of 149 flat set last month with ideas and tips from this post. There is over a 150+ with the proper bracing holds, seat positions, visor configs and a bigger person in the car under the 1800 watt power limit. And this is my daily driver so its nice to be able to pull up bust some ass a ride off boomin without having to touch or tweak a thing really!

[stefanhinote]

Having the AC on does 2 things.. 1 is it cools the cabin area which some believe the cooler air is easier to move. 2nd and most important thing it does is it kicks in your alternator to maximum output just like turning on your headlights or rolling up or down your windows and turning on your rear defogger does. So the myth really has yet to be proven since you get the alternator boost.

Also I like to thank Feupe2001 for this topic. With couple of tips and Ideas from this post I managed a sealed legal dB Drag style score this sunday (may 22nd) of 149.9 @ 1674 watts from the trunk of my 1995 Acura integra SEDAN 4 door! Making it the loudest 0-1800 watt vehicle in NSPL History so far.I bested out the last best score of 149 flat set last month with ideas and tips from this post. There is over a 150+ with the proper bracing holds, seat positions, visor configs and a bigger person in the car under the 1800 watt power limit. And this is my daily driver so its nice to be able to pull up bust some ass a ride off boomin without having to touch or tweak a thing really!

An alternator should produce more current when there is a demand (current draw). Like you stated, turning on the ac, lights, would make the alternator produce more current to match the new current draw. But if an amp starts playing, it's drawing current from the alt already, so I don't see why turning the ac or lights on would help any.

Do you have a better explanation, or possibly someone else can confirm this with an explanation?

[SPL KID]

In my car Acura/Honda they have what is called a ELD electronic load detector. It only works off of items that are fused from under the hood and possibly the fusebox inside of the vehicle. So when it detects a load increase from there it kicks in the alternator to max capacity.

Other vehicles may differ but it's best to examine each vehicle with metering devices. Most vehicles get max amperage delivered by 1500-1800 rpm's any thing over that is pointless to rev to.

[stefanhinote]

In my car Acura/Honda they have what is called a ELD electronic load detector. It only works off of items that are fused from under the hood and possibly the fusebox inside of the vehicle. So when it detects a load increase from there it kicks in the alternator to max capacity.

That makes sense

and congratz on your score, very impressive.

[fecupe2001]

Well from what I've heard, the score should be higher with a lower temperature because the air is more dense. Not sure if you live in like the city or something, but I would even say maybe in the middle of the night, should already be cool then crank the AC for a couple minutes get it REALLY cold and then see your score. Theoretically it should be highest, but we'll see lol.

hehe yeah man, i honestly try to use the same weather conditions on this testings, burping with a lot of heat in my former parking so there wasn't anything about the weather affecting the scores between test, in theory, cool weather should score better than a lot of heat right?? my main goal on this topic it's not only learning myself,but helping guys out if they don't have acces to a sensor. When i finish all this things, i'm gonna build a final box with same size using the tips that worked for me on the previous tests, that box shouldn't have holes and scratches like the ones i use for testings lol, my main goal it's a 145 with a single 12" wich is a very small cone are for that big ass SUV, i think it's a very realistic goal right??

was routing the inside edges of the sub holes tested? has anyone tested that? great topic. kind of hard to do all this when your box is pretty well sealed up but do what ya can right.

not yet, remember that this boxes doesn't even have glue on so i can open them whenever i want, routing external edges,sub hole and resin will be the final steps on this testings, i'm just as curious as you are, i wanna route that hole so badly hehe, but since i don't own a router, that's why it will be the last step at the same time with the external edges.

[fecupe2001]

Having the AC on does 2 things.. 1 is it cools the cabin area which some believe the cooler air is easier to move. 2nd and most important thing it does is it kicks in your alternator to maximum output just like turning on your headlights or rolling up or down your windows and turning on your rear defogger does. So the myth really has yet to be proven since you get the alternator boost.

Also I like to thank Feupe2001 for this topic. With couple of tips and Ideas from this post I managed a sealed legal dB Drag style score this sunday (may 22nd) of 149.9 @ 1674 watts from the trunk of my 1995 Acura integra SEDAN 4 door! Making it the loudest 0-1800 watt vehicle in NSPL History so far.I bested out the last best score of 149 flat set last month with ideas and tips from this post. There is over a 150+ with the proper bracing holds, seat positions, visor configs and a bigger person in the car under the 1800 watt power limit. And this is my daily driver so its nice to be able to pull up bust some ass a ride off boomin without having to touch or tweak a thing really!

but wouldn't turning everything on drain your battery a little bit faster?? i might know a few things about golf, boxes, sex and dogs, but i know SHIT about electrical haha, that's why i'm asking this out.

My pleasure man, i'm so happy this topic helped you out, what tips from this topic were good to raise your score?? every application it's different so that's why i'm asking, 149.9 on a trunk car with 1674 clamped watts?? wow!!!! that's loud as hell man, congrats on the score, care to give an input of what equipments are you using?? i'm hoping to be louder myself now after this topic, it's a learning process to me and to many others in here

[fecupe2001]

I forgot to mention, there are a few updates on this topic, but my computer broke down and i'm using my bro's PC, so as soon as i fix mine, there will be many updates

[SPL KID]

I want to add a tip/thing to try. I Armor all'ed the whole interior vacuumed it near perfectly clean. Removed the rubber rugs they hold up air flow . This is the list of things I comprised from several topics to help me out:

remove the 45's find the good 45 degree

vinyl/smooth inside of box = 4 tenths

use 4 inch pvc to do 45's for testing start 45 away from port bottom of subwoofer side then check and add

Paint the outside of the enclosure -- last thing to do.

Round the back/front of the sub opening with router

round box outsides with router for air flow

Testing sheet:

Open glove box result:

sunvisor result:

Seats positioning result:

air vents results:

Raise lower headrest results:

using very little input

voltage from the head unit so that you have smaller steps between each

click. you can find that sweet spot where the amps are at a softclip, and pickup

a good bit. not to mention break a whole lot less.no, i usually use less than 1.5v

input, and the gain is usually 1/2 or less. it's something mikko virta showed me a

while back.

- Passengers seat all the way forward, flipped forward, sun visor down.

- Drivers seat all the way forward, layed back

- Fiddle with the AC controls and vents. Typically Demist + Heat worked best

- Pushing on the drivers door for Street, passengers for Max

- Hold down the hatch on the CRX, and the back window panels too. We'd gain almost a dB from that alone

- No right angles inside the box/wall

- flare port mouthes. We'd use 1/2 PVC to flare the outside of the walls, or the metal bowl & heatgun method on round pipes

- Tape around the subs and the box in Street. Never did back to back tests, it was "something to do" between runs at comps

- Battery training.. charging up to 15.3V from new, draining down to 12.5V, then re-charging up to 15.3V over the period of a week or two

- Cleaning the contacts.. between events I'd loose up to 1dB due to corrosion of the contacts/buzz bars/cable ends

Never make more than one changes through each burp...The right way is one change at a time...

Cab Mods.....

Seal up everything

Adjust seats forward

If seat does not fold forward then unbolt the back of the seat so it will lay forward.

Adjust sun visors

Adjust glove box

Put the ac on recycle so it is not open to the outside

Close all ac vents if possible

no, tune it slightly lower than u want and keep cutting the port off til there is no

more gain

if this is a true spl build that is

Put ac on defrost

Adjust door latches to close doors tighter

That is my sheet I went by to help me in testing and gaining. The equipment used I can't reveal till end of season per instruction from the team.

[Dubpower]

this has got me thinking, get out finger and get that second sub and try out the box I have