billy101 Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 If I'm not mistaken, I've heard multiple times that a unibody car, you cannot ground to as it "doesn't have a chassis"? I don't know, but you may want to ground to a strut tower or a battery; if you have a battery in your trunk. Just throwing that out there. Sorry if I'm unhelpful. First System 2002 Impala LS 3.8L V6, 128,365k miles. Alternator: DC Power 190Amp H/O Alternator Headunit: Kenwood KDC-BT945U. Speakers: MBQuart 6.5" Comps, 6x9 3-way. Amplifer: Eclipse 3322 on front 6.5 components, and a Infinity Kappa One @ 2ohm- 800w Subwoofers: 2 REAudio SRX12D2 wired to 2 ohm. Box: 3.1cuft box tuned to 33hz. sealed off to cabin Big 3- done with all Knukonceptz KCA 0 gauge. Don't drop below 14.1v at full tilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebel4055 Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Are there any subs connected right now? Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osamio Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Are there any subs connected right now? No, NOTHING connected, just the power ground and remote, and i even tested it with just power and ground with a jumper instead of the remote to see if there was a problem with that. NOTHING. Instantly protects. If I'm not mistaken, I've heard multiple times that a unibody car, you cannot ground to as it "doesn't have a chassis"? I don't know, but you may want to ground to a strut tower or a battery; if you have a battery in your trunk. Just throwing that out there. Sorry if I'm unhelpful. Even if u couldn't ground to a unibody chassis car, there is a 0 gauge wire from that ground point i made to the battery. And besides, you can ground to the chassis, that's how the battery makes a connection to the engine block/alternator, stock. also, the strut tower is a good ground, BECAUSE it's attached to the chassis. Thanks anyway tho. 2009 Cobalt LT Pioneer Headunit 2x Pioneer 6 1/2 (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 1" tweeters (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 6x9 (stock amp 4x Pioneer 6 1/2 Pioneer GM-6400F Soundstream DTR 1700 R.I.P 2x Champion series PRO 12" subs 0 AWG Big 3, Stinger SP1700 battery To come: New or repaired DTR!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osamio Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 On a side note, is it normal that if i put the DMM between my +12 volt terminal on my amp, and my remote terminal, it reads 12 volts? like the amps remote terminal is grounded? that could be totally normal i'm just wondering. 2009 Cobalt LT Pioneer Headunit 2x Pioneer 6 1/2 (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 1" tweeters (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 6x9 (stock amp 4x Pioneer 6 1/2 Pioneer GM-6400F Soundstream DTR 1700 R.I.P 2x Champion series PRO 12" subs 0 AWG Big 3, Stinger SP1700 battery To come: New or repaired DTR!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford302Redneck Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 If I'm not mistaken, I've heard multiple times that a unibody car, you cannot ground to as it "doesn't have a chassis"? I don't know, but you may want to ground to a strut tower or a battery; if you have a battery in your trunk. Just throwing that out there. Sorry if I'm unhelpful. A unibody car can be grounded just like anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3nOSlaPP Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 has the amp ever got hot? what guage wire are you running? i had this same problem but i had the wrong size wire and it actually melted the solder in the fuse (didnt appear to be blown at all) No, the amp has never been hot to the touch, in fact it's usually quite cold cause it's in my trunk and it's winter lol. And i'm using 4 gauge, that's the biggest the terminals on the amp will accept. ahh ok do you have any electrical updates? big three? batteries? Vehicle: 2017 Chevrolet Silverado High Country Electrical: 320A Singer Alt, (2) Limitless Lithium 15ah, Full Throttle FT680-48 Speakers: Stevens Audio SA 6 (ACTIVE), Audio Designs 3” Subwoofer: (4) B2 Audio XM 8’s Amplifiers: (2) B2 Audio Rage 2500.1, (1) B2 Audio Rage 1200.6 Processors: NavTv M650 (integration), Helix DSP Pro MK2 Silverado Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osamio Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 has the amp ever got hot? what guage wire are you running? i had this same problem but i had the wrong size wire and it actually melted the solder in the fuse (didnt appear to be blown at all) No, the amp has never been hot to the touch, in fact it's usually quite cold cause it's in my trunk and it's winter lol. And i'm using 4 gauge, that's the biggest the terminals on the amp will accept. ahh ok do you have any electrical updates? big three? batteries? 0 gauge big three, but even before that i was running this amp fine at 1/2 gain. Then it was fine with the big 3. until this happened, now even with the gain all the way down, and no music, no RCA, no speakers connected, it protects right away. I never dropped below 13 volts if that's where you were going with this.. 2009 Cobalt LT Pioneer Headunit 2x Pioneer 6 1/2 (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 1" tweeters (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 6x9 (stock amp 4x Pioneer 6 1/2 Pioneer GM-6400F Soundstream DTR 1700 R.I.P 2x Champion series PRO 12" subs 0 AWG Big 3, Stinger SP1700 battery To come: New or repaired DTR!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 On a side note, is it normal that if i put the DMM between my +12 volt terminal on my amp, and my remote terminal, it reads 12 volts? like the amps remote terminal is grounded? that could be totally normal i'm just wondering. Thats absolutely NOT normal. If you put one terminal of the dmm on the (+)of the amp and one terminal of the dmm on the (rem)of the amp you should NOT get any reading on the dmm. i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Is your amp grounded to the battery or body? If to the body, did you sand the paint down really well? There is a chance that turning the gain up pulled more current and it grounded through the remote if the ground wire connection is bad. i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osamio Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 On a side note, is it normal that if i put the DMM between my +12 volt terminal on my amp, and my remote terminal, it reads 12 volts? like the amps remote terminal is grounded? that could be totally normal i'm just wondering. Thats absolutely NOT normal. If you put one terminal of the dmm on the (+)of the amp and one terminal of the dmm on the (rem)of the amp you should NOT get any reading on the dmm. Good to know. Then what could have caused that? Is your amp grounded to the battery or body? If to the body, did you sand the paint down really well? There is a chance that turning the gain up pulled more current and it grounded through the remote if the ground wire connection is bad. The amp is grounded to the same spot on the body as the battery. so even if the chassis connection wasn't great, the connection to the battery is. 2009 Cobalt LT Pioneer Headunit 2x Pioneer 6 1/2 (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 1" tweeters (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 6x9 (stock amp 4x Pioneer 6 1/2 Pioneer GM-6400F Soundstream DTR 1700 R.I.P 2x Champion series PRO 12" subs 0 AWG Big 3, Stinger SP1700 battery To come: New or repaired DTR!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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