Sergeant_Skyrim Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 EDITED APRIL 4TH! New question on post #10 I've searched online for tutorials/guides on how to wire up a second battery and this is pretty much what I found: http://i412.photobuc...g-explained.jpg This says that I'm going to need a run of wire from the front battery positive to the rear battery positive to the amp. Another run from front battery negative to rear battery negative to the amp. And then ground both battery negative connections. It's also saying that I should get fuses that match up with the wire, for example if the wire is 0 gauge and supports 300a of current then I should get 300a fuses. Just wanting to double check before I order everything, so is this correct? I'm going to be installing either a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1D or 2100.1D. The video that Hifonics provides here: says that the 1200.1D features 2 70a fuses, but that the 1700.1D and above require external "inline" fusing. I'm wondering what this means basically. The Audiosavings page for each of the amps says that the 1700.1D and 2100.1D require an external 160a and 200a fuse respectively. How would I got about doing this, just the same as the photobucket picture for wiring a second battery shows?Thanks in advance to anybody who can help teach me something, will check back in the morning to get my knowledge on. Cheers! Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrchevy87 Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 your correct on the two runs of wire, id go 250 amp on the fusing as its the maximum current that you can push through that wire till you get voltage drop, also upgrade your grounds and alt wire w 1/0(big three upgrade). the external fusing just means run a fuse in the main power wire Jeep Wrangler TJ Hardtop Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 What about the amp fusing though? Says that I should have 200a inline external fusing for the 2100.1D, so would that mean I'd be looking to get 3 200a ANL fuses? Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 idd also fit a solenoid between the primary and secondary battery in aust. we use http://redarc.com.au/products-and-services/sbi-series-dual-battery-isolator comes in a 200amp continuous rating option. stops 1 battery draining the other when not in use and also allows tunes to be played when car is off and not drain crank battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getlocivic Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 idd also fit a solenoid between the primary and secondary battery in aust. we use http://redarc.com.au...attery-isolator comes in a 200amp continuous rating option. stops 1 battery draining the other when not in use and also allows tunes to be played when car is off and not drain crank battery uhh yea thats totally not needed.. thats a "add on"..honestly your the 1st person ive herd say to use 1 of those Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 idd also fit a solenoid between the primary and secondary battery in aust. we use http://redarc.com.au...attery-isolator comes in a 200amp continuous rating option. stops 1 battery draining the other when not in use and also allows tunes to be played when car is off and not drain crank battery except that would completely defeat the purpose of having 2 batteries. Plus, who plays their system with the car off? OP: fuse between the batteries for the wires max current draw. One fuse at each battery. Then fuse the power wire to the amp for the amps recommended fuse just after the battery. pretty easy F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getlocivic Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 ^^^ this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 idd also fit a solenoid between the primary and secondary battery in aust. we use http://redarc.com.au...attery-isolator comes in a 200amp continuous rating option. stops 1 battery draining the other when not in use and also allows tunes to be played when car is off and not drain crank battery except that would completely defeat the purpose of having 2 batteries. Plus, who plays their system with the car off? OP: fuse between the batteries for the wires max current draw. One fuse at each battery. Then fuse the power wire to the amp for the amps recommended fuse just after the battery. pretty easy Ok, I think I get what you're saying. If the 0 gauge wire supports up to 300a then I should get 2 300a fuses for the batteries and then a 200a fuse for the final run between back battery->amp if I go with the 2100.1D (which recommends the 200a external fuse). Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 yup! that would be it. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp205/loopkiller/2-battery-drawing-explained.jpg Do I actually NEED a run of 1/0 going along the black line? Isn't that just grounding? So would I be ok just grounding each black negative terminal to the metal frame of the car w/out actually having 1/0 connecting them? Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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