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Even I don't want to believe those amps are that over rated! Lol Who says that's what it is, he could be rising to 10ohms for all we know.

Thought i would throw this together since im wiring up some batteries over in my build section. Ive had a few people ask me how i do it so here it is. This stuff is going into a PURE SPL Honda CRX. It will burp not play music very well. Anyway here is the soldering portion of the install. Here it is sorta "mocked up" how its going to be in the rex. Those are Kinetic 2400's Using ALL Rockford 1/0.....of course! Trimmed back about 1/2" and a 1/0 lug slapped on Grab you a decent propane torch and some solder. I use 60/40 rosin core solder. This will take practice but you will feel like you know something if you get the hang of it. I always get it nice and hot before starting. But i never use the flame itself to melt the solder. Heat up the BACK side of the lug preferably up higher by the hole at first. This allows the solder to melt up higher and slide down and into the wire pocket. This also saves you from melting the crap out of the wire jacket. you want to feed the wire and lug by pushing it against the hot surface and NOT the flame itself.......just keep pushing, get as much as you can in there without making it slip out the bottom and dripp everywhere. I do this until it is flat smooth puddle of shiny solder on the top. The trick is you need that wire to wick the solder or its no good. Now i heat it up toward the bottom of the lug until i see the wire underneath pull the solder into it. Pull back so it goes down gently and then let it cool a little bit. The wire should be saturated in solder now. Now i thow another pool over the top by heating up the lug up by the top hole again and letting it fall down into a smooth flat surface. Make sure it fuses with the lug all the way around and your done.

200 watts from a 600wrms amp @ 1 ohm that has a 2 or 3X impedance rise seems normal to me. Its a huge shell shocker for people that "clamp amps" and say look at my 600wrms amp making 1400 watts rms because they never measure how clean the signal is and the amp is clipping so hard the mosfets about to explode.

Has anyone seen the new Rockford fosgate Bola (freeloader) edition?

Now available with grade 8 bolts. They are a little cheaper than the stainless and conduct just as good! 0.00ohms resistance across the bolt. (Been using these for 20 years with no problems at all). visit http://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-products/smd-speaker-terminals.html (or click the link in my sig) for info

Update #2 - i got it playing! Not too bad for a test box but my van rattles WAYYY to much. Might try to put it in my sons Yukon this week. Only problem is he only has 1000w on hand for it. I don't plan on ripping his entire system apart just for this...but i will see how she acts on 1k at least (in a vehicle that isn't a tin-can)

First of all much respect for you, to you and what you've done for the industry... I noticed in the video that you didn't drill the holes for the sub all the way through for the threaded inserts, but for the plexiglass insert you did... Is there a specific reasoning behind that?? Also, do you use a particular brand or just any soft wood threaded insert?? Thanks!! actually i did drill all the way through on both. But for no particular reason other than the window frame is a lot thinner than the subwoofer mounting baffle.

Got a lot of used motors and test subs laying around, How about a Scratch and dent type yard sale (1) Lv3 18d2 $250 (1) lv4 12 d1 built with 2 medium spiders $275.00 (2) Lv3 12 D4 AR Cones , White carbon fiber caps with black logos 500 for the pair (2) Lv3 12 d1 Stock Builds 425 for the pair (1) each XL 12 d1 and a d2 stock builds 375 each Everything here is used in some way or another so Im just looking to clean up some of the bench space by moving it out into people hands to enjoy. Low prices to move it all out asap. =]