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When you gather information from all over the place and don’t use that information correctly to weigh right from wrong then it’s easy to become confused and indecisive about a matter. I skimmed through them screenshots and seen facts and fiction and didn’t even have to study it and keep reading it to asses the general knowledge from it. If I were a noob that didn’t know how to build enclosures, I could use that information you posted and come to a conclusion quick because I’m smart. If you do the mathematics on the port area of both enclosures I told you to choose from, one has 12.3 square inches of port area per cubic foot and the other has 16 square inches of port area per cubic foot. That’s kinda what was told to you in the screenshots you posted. And 2.3 cubes is 15% bigger than 2 cubes that’s recommended. That’s not enough of an increase to cause the subwoofer to reach its mechanical limits and bottom out and damage the subwoofer. That’s 5-10% less than the maximum increase before bottoming out would occur and the amp would have to be stronger to cause that on that subwoofer. You have understand each subwoofer is different and designing an enclosure has to be done by factoring in the t/s parameters. The recommendations of sizing is just a basic idea. And when it comes to port noise, the more the rms and lower the tuning, the wider the port has to be to not have port noise. More rms increase port velocity and lower tuning increases port velocity. Some designers and builders use less port area to accommodate for the area available when building an enclosure with a lot of subwoofers and it helps with bandwidth and accuracy depending on the application and design, but takes away from the output. As long as it isn’t a crazy amount of port area, the bandwidth would be fine and it wouldn’t reach mechanical limits. That why I suggested an spl slot port enclosure with 16 sq” per cube and a musical aero port enclosure with a little less than 12.3 sq” per cube. And a 15% increase would increase output without reaching mechanical limits. Most pros that compete increase the sizing of their enclosures by 10-20% to increase output and they throw more than rated rms at the subwoofers. Plus recommendations about sizing is just to reference. You have to factor in the t/s parameters of the subwoofer and the rms of the amp. That amp 2400.1 you are using isn’t doing 2000 rms after rise. Rise differs on each frequency, subwoofer and application and cabin area surrounding said enclosure. Dude just messaged me earlier today and he is rising from 1 ohm to about 4 or 5 ohms and on a bass 30k only doing 9000 rms. So a 30,000 rms amp is only doing 9,000 rms after rise on his set up on whatever frequency he tested it on with an amm-1. So with that said, the enclosure has to be bigger because you are probably doing around 1000 rms. That figure is based off of the specs of that amp and the absolute lowest rise if the subwoofer, application and cabin area surrounding it permits minimal rise from about 1 ohm to 2.5 ohms. Rising from 1 ohm to 2.5 ohms is minimal rise and would make any bass head happy as shit. Before I begin to type or draw something up, I learn every piece of the equation and factor in so many different variables and calculations and base the variables off of facts and if facts are unavailable and it’s something like impedance rise, I would factor in the best possible scenario when it comes to that when designing an enclosure because if I calculated using the worse case scenario of impedance rise then it would leave too much room for error. Factoring the best case senecio leave no room for error when it comes to that variable. Then on some variables I have to factor it worse case scenario to ensure no errors arise. Averaging is something that works with some things but averaging can be problematic if something in the equation is below average or below average.

Because again, different vehicles, different setups, some are obviously competing and burping, some are playing music, lots of different subs being used, Some are ignorant and some just regurgitate what they've read online. Dude from all of this I'd say if you're building your own box, just build what sundown told you to build. Otherwise pay a pro. Because it seems like no matter what you build, you're going to think it would of been better another way and look for someone to blame. And at least if you build what sundown told you to build, you can't blame us. Everyone is not going to give you the same answers because everyone has had different builds and has had different results. The same guy saying he did better with a smaller box may do better with a bigger box in a different car. Or the same guy doing better with a big box with one sub may do better with a smaller box with another sub. And vice versa. The manufacturer recommended enclosure is a good starting point. Build that. Don't like it, try bigger, try smaller, try different port volumes and tunes... Keep all the boxes that weren't perfect. Then once you get it perfect, get a new vehicle... And you're likely to see one of the previous "lesser" boxes do better in the new vehicle. There's no one size fits all for all vehicles and subwoofers, or everyone would have the same exact setups and same exact enclosure.

@meade916 care to jump in on this topic please?

The TM-1 manual is very clear.