NomaOnAir

You can goto the paint supply store an buy panel adhesive , it should do the trick . Apply it between roof and brace an somehow keep it braced up until it is cured.

You can buy or make your own templates. I tend to try an make as many as I can as I do not have the money to buy MBS templates.I usually get my shapes , rough cut , then sand by hand until I feel it is good enough. Also know that a router will "round" per day any "sharp" croners.

Well , depending on what link setup you have .. I would either a0 suggest a fuel cell w/ inline pump 1st generation 2 dr blazer gas tank(mounted between your rear frame rails). You can use ur factory sending unit with the blazer tank you just have to shorten the "pump assem." to match what the blazer one looks like (pickup tube , etc). c) put ur factory tank in the bed.

if you can find room for say a 3 gallon , 1 compressor , 1 manifold valve,room to run lines/wires (most compact IMO) you should be good to go.

it could also have something to do with your wheels and tires..

I rarely see FWD cars that lay out in the front on struts, Your buddies cavy was probably on cans .. I very rarely see imports that lay .. but when you do they are usually on cans an have had more work then just bolting them in done to the susp.

Id probably go cylinders but that is just me . Just google honda accord air ride .. im sure like street beat or fbi will probably pop up first .. Stay away from AIM ( ofcourse my .02)

I use car spray wax , seems to do the trick for the most part..

hoseandfittings.com is good to ..

depending on the mids/highs I will run 9 wire from the amp to the factory wiring an attach it via required metra harness.Other then that I use 16-18ga.Alot depends on the the car/mids/highs.

bolt a pcs of wood to the factory bed holes , also bolt 4 eyelets onto the wood , 2 front /2 back on seperate side of the tank an strap it down .

I second suicide doors , though I would call them up an tell them what you wanna do . they will put you together a package at a good price. alson sign up on s10forum.com , s10f members get a discount.. Though you have to have so many post on s10f .( i think )

You could probably do air shocks on the back with like a mono ( the biggest leaf spring ) setup or something , though I wouldnt recomend it . though this is old , You will need drop i beams,bag brackets for ibeam ranger .. for the front OR a front clip conversion from a newer ranger or Mustang 2 for the front . Personally I like the mustang 2 swaps there just $$$. An I highly doubt you could get a GOOD shop to do a bag job for $2000 , maybe $2000 + , Plus parts . Ed

You could run a 5 gallon without a problem . Granted you wont have alot of "air at spare" but it will be just fine for what you wanna do . If you run like a re7 it will take liek a minimum of 60psi to get the front up ( going off a s10 w/ 4.3 etc) I would run a viair 450 or 460 something with 100% duty cycle. I know a ton of ppl who only run 5 gallons an its plenty of air , with SOME play time but of course a 12 gallon would be more play time . If you want alot of play time run your 5 gallon as a expansion chamber an run nitrogen . Ed

hahah I was thinking the same thing...

I would have to agree , IN the air suspension business you pay for what you get . Art's shockwaves are pretty much bolt in application .. Yea they're expensive , but NOTHING is going to be cheap an if it is ITS more then likely junk ! As for the rear you could get away w/ using the factory 4 link an removing the springs in place for bags ( a little harder then it sounds ofcourse) If you take the cheap way out your bound to have problems sooner or later . Been there , done that . Ed

the 302/351 swap in a stang in simple , the 302 rad will work just fine , you can also use a stock clutch fan , only thing you need is 351 motor mounts an swap headers. Also for the swap in the tc , I would do a carb setup , I would run like a msd 6al for igition and I would also get rid of all of your factory wiring EXCEPT for your head lighst , tails , an turns . I Would run all autometer guages to make it simpler, BUT thats the leats of your worrys .. You have to get a RWD rear end in the car, get the ford motor an tranny to fit ( I would run a c4) which would also be a chore, You would probably have to get some kinda of manual steering rack and probably a ford fairmont k member up front to house the engine and get a customs drive shaft made . http://www.kugelkomponents.com/focus/focus.html granted it would be bad ass , but it would be ALOT OF WORK an $$$ .. IF you want more power do a Turbo or Supercharger on your car . You can make good power with those cars witha built factory block .. ie , crank,rods,pistons ,head ETC ETC ETC . I would suggest building your motor an not attempting to do a 302/351 swap. I had a built 351w in my mustang before I sold it , it made 550hp on motor an was built for a 200 shot of nitrous, which I sold the car before I put the nitrous kit on it . Ed

I would get any kind of s10 drop shocks .

I know this is old but in order to get a s10 to lay its pretty simple . You can lay on a 17" rim w/ a 205 to 215/35/17 , to lay in the front you need spindles no uppers or lower control arms.The rear you can lay on a 17" with a bolt in notch , BUT it will lay out ON the notch. I would recomend IF you dont wanan cut the bed an want the cheapest (NOT BEST) way out would be to run a behind an under bag bracket kit on a mono leaf setup .If your not a affraid to cut the bed I would run probably run a suicide doors 3 link an a bag over axle setup. JUST IMO. Fmkustoms , I would think you would know this stuff with a name like that . Ed