stratusrt01

I had to work on some customer's boxes for the shop. Emergency builds to make some monies.

Yeah, I'll go to his house and beat on the door.

I have almost every album still.

I could probably bring one also..... I just need to get a new cable for it, this one is so beat up, sometimes it will give some crazy numbers.

I hear that crap all the time here, "Mine did a 158", but then when I put them in the truck I built that does a legitimate 150.0 on music, they want to get out!!!!!! Then we put them on the Termlab, and they can't break 140 and go home cursing at me.

I curve ports all the time using 3/4" birch, it's actually easier than using MDF. I definately wouldn't use kerfed 1/2" MDF for a port.

I'm planning on being there, I've got sponsors to support!!!! But the radio trick only works for burps, not bassrace, so unless you want to pull your headunit in between your burp and your bassrace run to rewire, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

I agree, as someone who runs 18V daily, there's a lot more to it than you would think, and I wouldn't suggest it for 98% of daily drivers.

Just doing the radio how I told you was worth at least .3, it's tried and proven every time to add .3 or more........lol

I may make it, if I can ever quit making stupid mistakes and actually get mine playing.........

Well, I really want to run this box, since the output at low frequencies should be amazing, so I think I'm going to try them with the woofers inverted and see how I like it. I'm typically not an inverted woofer fan at all, but we'll see how it sounds and looks once it's done. If I don't like that, I'll tear the baffle out and do a flat wall, I guess.

Well, I have to move the sub placement. Because of the subs being mounted that far back, it effectively puts the tuning at around 80hz because it's not seeing the front of the line. So I'm going to have to rip out the baffle and rebuild it......... suckage, but you live, you learn. So, here's a quick pic before I tear the baffle out tomorrow evening. I was all set to glass the holes and seams and get it in for paint on Saturday also:

Nice scores man, you're going to have to start burping it instead of just doing bassrace now, I guess.

I actually got to hear my first one finally hooked up and playing, and this amp is no joke for the price.

A friend of mine did it. You can try his email [email protected]

Definately great sounding boxes. As long as the T&S specs are even similar, you can expect similar sounds. Changing subs just really changes the way the box reacts. The dual 10" box, I sold to a guy that put Kicker CVX's in it, and he still loved it, even though those subs are totally different spec-wise. The way I understand it, and from swapping subs in mine, if you put a sub with a low Qts in a horn it will be very peaky around tuning. Higher Qts subs smooth it out a bit. If the Fs is different, it can change the curve, but in mine, it normally moves the curve a bit towards the Fs of the new sub, but doesn't totally kill the sound.

yep, that's the box. I wish I still had the design, but when my computer crashed, I lost it.

That's a rear loaded horn variant. Similar to the box I had in my Stratus with a pair of 10's and a single 12. Both worked very well for me. the single 12: The dual 10's:

because typically there's not enough airspace in a vehicle cabin to properly load a real horn enclosure. This is more of a variant that should load decent, although I expect it will still be quite a bit louder with the windows down.

I sure don't. And I had help designing this one also, so I may not be a lot of help to you.

This is a different style horn also, the 10's were in a rear loaded horn, this is a tapped horn.

It's basically what you see is what you get, there's not much inside except for some bracing for the baffle. It starts at just over 5", is 14" at the turn, and 24" at the outlet.