RamenNoodles

Im totally down for supporting small businesses like Darvex that have killer prices on some things and great guys running them but money is tight right now for me and a lot of people so sometimes you just have to go the cheaper route.

WTF is a shrimp taco? My shrimp taco knowledge FTL.

How open is this audio shop? Like if its in a city center or on a main street then I guess its not that big of a deal. But if its kinda off the beaten path then NO.

Ah snap, I was suspecting that but wasnt quite sure lol.

I dont get it lol

Thats what jeffrey daumer said.

Why the t2000 when your budget is that low? Great amp dont get me wrong but why? There are so many other choices that will help you save money to put to a batter or wiring or box materials for example

That is pretty sick indeed, too bad most of us wouldnt be able to even use it for more than just idling.

The man knows his stuff. Give it a whirl.

Yes, that will be perfect for that setup.

Lol you can hear all the people in the back tone bumping lol

Do you mean a song like this....

well if you are looking to buy 2 BTLs that right there is going to cost around $900. So $100 for an amp/amps 1/0 wiring, HO alt, materials for box, batteries. you will need around 3grand to have an adequate system for 2 BTLs.

Do you all not know how to get around the internet blockers? We have them at my work and there are ways to get around network admin settings like that.

I upgraded from a Jensen to a Clarion and could instantly notice a difference the moment I turned on any song.

Europe and other countries have those sick little hatch backs that rape when it comes to numbers. Man I wish some of these would be implemented into the US.

going for an SPL car will take a LOT of money. Just be prepared.

Oh no doubt they are nice woofers. I have owned one in the past. JL products are very nice. They just are too overpriced for what they can do. What I mean by my w7 = teh pwnage comment was, everyone who doesnt know anything past mainstream audio thinks JL W7 and MTX Jackhammer. Its like come on seriously that is getting old.

W7 = TEH PWNAGE!!! DUHHHHH

Chevy not to sound like an asshole or anything but why do you always do that. The guy is newer, hes only god like 75 posts of course he is new. He probably just doesnt know who is he or whats in the car because of the time period he has been here. Just because you have something like 8k posts doesnt give you the right to put down anyone you deem a "noob"

I wish I could find one bitch around here that was into car audio that was remotely hot.

The A spot is where you want to add your wires on to. The B spot that you labeled looks like the alternator socket. That has nothing to do with the big3 so dont worry about that. As far as where the stock wiring runs, fuck it. Its just Honda's was of cleaning up the engine bay, they just weave it around the engine in order to make it looks a little neater and such. Just do the straited and more direct path that is or course out of harms way as well. You need to upgrade the alternator + to the battery + Battery - to the frame Battery - to the engine block And if you want you can do the fuse blocks which are battery + to fuse left and alternator to fuse right (double check your layout to make sure left and right fuse block spots) And when you put the ring terminals on, take off about 1/2" of the cable sleeve to expose the bare wire. Take the ring terminal and dont twist it up, just pinch it together at the tip and slide it in the bottom end of the terminal. Take a hammer and hit the middle of the ring terminal on the front where the two ends meet. This will push them into the wire. Then turn the terminal on its side and hit it from the side so that one of the sides will go underneath the other making a nice tight hug around the wire. I really advise this part so that the terminals do not slip out.... Heat up the end of the ring terminal with a blow torch (a hand held one from HD or Lowes will work, its what i used) and then heat up that fucker for about a minute making sure its hot as hell. Then quickly, take about a 2 ft piece of solder and push it into the front of the terminal where the wire is. This will melt the solder and let it drip down into the wire forming a nice bond between the wire and terminal so that it will NOT fall out when driving. Check out Meade's thread about how to do it with pictures. Good luck man, its really easier than you think its going to be.

more posts = more car audio knowledge... at least at CA.com it does

Man that is a good fuckin find

Thanks man. It was really a simple upgrade for sure. Kinda dreaded it but only took like 3 hours total work for the alt and wiring. But yea Honda's are weird when it comes to wiring. Like lets you say you are at a light and your voltage is at a steady 14.5 then you get to about 40mph, the car will kick back the rpms and you will be at around 1500 rpm or a little less. Then after like 10 seconds, its almost as if your alternator goes into sleep mode because the voltages will instantly go to around 12.6 or so. So instead of revving the engine, I just push in the window buttons if the windows are already down, or pull the buttons up if they are already up so it will do a small voltage surge and kick the alternator back in. Kind of a weird concept of how the alt kinda dulls out while cruising but oh well, its just something you have to live with lol