Masterbasser

seems kinda small for port area, should try 2 8 inch ports, thats 100 sq inch, 8 inch aeros are pretty cheap for good flared painted ones, around 32 bucks each I think 5 cubic feet is also to small for 2 15s. I would shoot for BARE MINIMUM of 6 cubic feet NET, after all driver/brace/port/ displacement

why isnt neil running incriminator audio amps to match his subs? i guess having to buy 22 amps would deter anyone from brand switching heh

tryna jus bang. lot of work this weekend still gotta pull it out, resin inside, paint outside, put back in and attach the 2 pieces

my pops cuttn the rest of rollcage out to get ready for new box for 2 18s hell of a mess under seat lol some woofer porn

9991

id jus change it when it starts slipping, make sure ya get as tight a belt as u can possibly fit too. buy a cpl belts and find the tighest 1 , take the rest back

eh mine startn to squeal a lil bit to it is the winter but looks like il be needing a new 1, used a duralast maybe ill try a higher class belt

sick ride, looks great

if ya got the money jsut buy the biggest hairpin u can fit

This thread can be deleted. it was a faulty thermostat

pg does 1788

ya try new belt make sure its tight as fuck,belts lengthen over time, post a pic of the belt going around the pulley on ur alternator so we can see ur belt wrap,the more belt u got on pulley the less it will slip

hmm not bad

did u specify on ur quote request what voltage u wanted it to charge at? i have had a few cars that only charged at around 13.8,i had bad connection on my mechman so after fixin that it went from 14 tops to bout 15.2 tops

what kinda wire are ya running? and terminals... as stuff heats up it creates resistance in the wires ect. make sure using ofc copper all over

Nah never contacted anyone over there about it seems like everythings in order just was a bad connection, still not getting charge at idle sometimes,the car has a aftermarket cam in it so it lopes around anywhere from 800 to 600 at the lowest, depends what fuel im running usually seems to stay around 15 volts all the time now i am just worried about the connection on the charging stud and getting bolt off or tighter

i checked all connections on vehicle before work and the one on alternator post had somehow loosened a bit, i went to tighten it and i could not tighten it without possibly breaking something (not sure if theres corrosion all over or if the bolt was partially melted or what but was unable to loosen or tighten the bolt without being scared of breaking it right off) i headed to work and noticed now i was getting 15.2 volts cold-later dropped to around 14.6 or so (hot im guessing) i believe the issue was a bad connection at the alternator positive output now at 2 ohm output dropping from 14.6 to 13.9 on bass hits. not sure what to do about the output bolt though I will update thread if there are any changes in the future!

yea belt was replaced with smaller,tensioner good, voltage during acceleration is fine i was driving along at 60 mph and watchin voltage fluctuate,this was showing on a stinger voltmeter i now have a digital multimeter installed and will check tonight on way to work alternator is a hairpin,belt wrap is very good and dont see any black dust anywhere

not to mention alternator never charged at idle even thoguh idle information crank pulley size was provided i have tried gettn the car to idle a bit higher thru tps manipulation but hasnt worked yet

yea maybe it wasnt, i see a bit of corrosion developing there though. still want to know about the weird voltage issue though

I bought a mechman 320 s billet hairpin alternator for my ford mustang late last year,just got it in maybe a month ago or so been working fine (kinda) I had hoped to get 14.5 volts out of the unit(requested 14.5 when i ordered) when i was seeing 13.9at max anyways a couple weeks ago i dropped in a different stereo and everything was going fine (i think) i am only running at 2 ohms on amp right now so getting maybe 3000 watts out at the most at 2 ohm load on amplifier im dropping into high 12s (not terrible) snaps right back now today I was driving to work and i looked down and seen voltage ranging from 13.5 to 15 volts,jumping around even with radio down,wasnt doing it all the time but here and there I could also hear a bit of whirring from up by the engine ( i suspect it was the alternator bearings maybe?) so i popped the hood and this is what i saw the bolt on the positive output of alternator had turned white i believe this bolt was copper colored when i got it with the alternator???, is there any explanation why that would be? and also why the voltage would be jumping around? possible regulator gone bad on alternator?

yea thermostat did the trick must have been gettn stuck at times, everything working decent droppin into mid- low 13s with this 5k hookd up, alternator not charging at idle though

may have been a thermostat issue, will update, just changed it and only drove a little bit (25 minutes) and it stayed very cool the entire time,even after pounding the bass, running a more watery coolant mixture also replaced coolant lost at thermostat change with only water

going to try the thermostat and then if that dont help will get a radiator flush prolly.

its a belt driven fan,always on i think it may be the temp sensor heating up from alternator heat and giving a reading of it being hotter then normal, gauge has never risen as high before alternator install,going to try changing thermostat tommorow see if anything happens