02Blazer

seems through that link in your sig that if you tell them what size wheel/tire combo , stock/drop spindles, and stock/tubular control arms , that they can sell you what you need . i have no clue for your truck

if you want a fast system go with 8 1/2" valves and 1/2" line and that should be plenty . if you were going to hop it , that's were the 3/4" valves and 3/4" or 1" line and running nitrogen at 300-600 psi !!! anyhow , youshould be very happy with the 1/2" valve and 1/2" line setup even at 150 psi

you can't just use any air cond. compressor , look into finding a Sanden from an older model jeep cherokee years 81-90 , the jeep comanchee years 86-90 , 81-90 jeep wagoneer , 87-90 jeep wrangler . you want the Sanden 7 compressor , these things will pump out about 300 psi !!!! and yes , youy use a tank . you are basically replacing a 12 volt compressor with this engine driven compressor .

don't worry about the weight , 600 lbs. is nothing for bags !!! as for a kit , i would suggest the super lift wishbone kit from suicide doors , tho you may have to modify the wishbone to clear the gas tank if you keep it in it's stock location .

in my opinion , no . there is air in the bag and all the way back to the valve , under the same amount of pressure . so to me if the hose is 10' long or 6" , it will have the same pressure apllied by the air added to it by the valve opening allowing that extra air flow . doesn't that make sense ???

this is just my opinion , but stay away from Ekstensive metal works , they are a hit or miss shop , and when they miss , they do hack jobs that take forever , take it for what it's worth ........

ASCO valves are very good dependable valves that are usually cheaper than SMC's , parkers , airlift and GC valves ...

suicide doors has the best customer service , if something went wrong , call them , they will take care of it .........

the cup set-ups from S.D are BOLT-IN , NOT WELD IN . you should buy a complete kit ( for both front and back ) so you can save some money instead of buying everything seperately . you don't have to do the rear now but do it later , by buying the whole kit - valves ,tank, compressors, air line , switches/switch box , fittings , etc... then get a front setup ( bags , bolt-in cups (don't get floating cups ) the bag fittings ) you can probably save a couple hundred bucks . you asked what it would cost , i assume for the parts , your looking around $1000-$1300 for the parts , that includes almost everything you need for the whole truck besides a 4-link , rear bag brackets , notch , and any crossmember(s) you need for your specific truck ( you will need a new cross member to raise your gas tank ) if you have an extended cab , you will need a new carrier bearing crossmember . any way , you can always buy things piece by piece , you might look into some lightly used stuff , but what ever you do DON'T BUY SHIT FROM CHASSIS TECH / A.I.M / JUSTBAGIT !!!!!!! you will buy a bunch of crap that ain't road worthy and will fail on you !!!!! good luck on your project , hope to hear the progress ..........

what's rps ??????

i like that way of thinking alot more than having you have somebody weld up a frame that YOU WILL HAVE TO MODIFY . i hope your thinking this whole thing out and planning it correctly . isn't your dad a welder ??? , or someone you know , i thought that you have said that before . anyhow , you could do it your self , IF , you have an experienced welder and a mechanic ( or some one with mechanical knowledge ) , get the body off the chassis , strip the frame down , remove all rear suspension , have your welder mark the front frame after the control arms ( by the firewall ) have him Z the frame rails with your new frame material ( preferrably 3''x3'' with 1/4'' wall thickness minimum ) and build from there back adding in cross members and notches and such till your ready for the body mounts and 4-link placement , also figure in fuel and brake line placement plus gas tank placement . there are probably another hundred more litttle things also but thats just a rough outline . i know you want to be hands on with your project so DO IT !!!! just make sure you enlist the help of a ASE mechanic and a certified welder to be there with you every step of the way . take notes and a gazillion pictures every step of the way . YOU CAN DO IT !!!!! just research it alot more , all the way down to materials and such . having someone weld you up a frame that you have to re-fabricate just doesn't make any sense to me , that's alot of time and money not very well spent . so keep us informed and let me know what your planning , till then ..................

good luck then ....................

he is not '' bagging it '' . he wants to stop the rear end sag cause of the excess weight from batteries and subs/enclosures . he needs a air spring helper kit , exactly like the one he is looking at ( the link he posted )..................

for your needs , that should do it . those kits are pretty easy to do your self . good luck ..........

remember from your first posting about your explorer ??? well i'll say it again , YOU MUST HAVE THE EXPLORER THERE WHERE YOU'RE GONNA DO THE STOCK FLOOR BODY DROP CHASSIS!!!! unless the guy has an explorer frame and body there to copy over to a frame jig , you are taking a big gamble !! why can't you have it done somewhere close to you ???? if your having trouble finding some one to do it in your area , go to a truck/car show , ask other local or in your state , truck owners or club members where they got their trucks done at and try to go that route . but if your dead set on this guy in NY , tow or ship your truck there ................ btw , having blue prints for a stock chassis is not gonna tell him how or where to make body mounts , 4-link mounts and tabs . please take my advice , you will thank me in the end when you got an ass-draggin , layed out ride that functions as good as it looks .......

click on the right portion of the link , it's actually another link with the turbo set-up for that engine !!!!!!!!!!!! i couldn't seperate the two different links ..

not in california !!! , way too much bullshit to go thru to get it properly registered , plus i don't got that kind of money to get a v-8 , tranny , and rear-end , plus getting all new tabs for my 4-link and re-welding them . would be nice but i don't think so . btw , i don't drive over 80 mph in my truck , so there is no need . if i wanted a fast truck i would get a fully built 22re from LC ENGINEERING , maybe their stage 3 forced induction motor with a t3/t4 turbo and 15-20 lbs. of boost http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/Pro...34-D72A7C8EC8C6 http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/Pro...81-CA0193D97924

im gonna go to this shop that is also a full machine shop , they pull your engine and fully rebuild your engine and warranty the engine and work , for around 1200.00 , i think thats a very good deal !!! . it's what i should of done in the first place when the original engine blew ......... but thanks , i think if i had a good size budget to work with , i would of got a built 22re from LC ENGINEERING .COM , they put out some badass engines , they also are very costly , too much for me ..................

yup , i recently put a used engine i bought of craigs list and had it installed in the toy ( in my sig ) , well it had a significant oil leak and some other undisclosed problems that i later found out the hard way , it lasted for about a month and a half (maybe less) and was runnin good , was draggin the shit out of it , thought you guys knew !!!! , went fishing all day and when i went to leave it was making ALOT of engine noise , kinda like my last engine before so bottom line is im gonna do it right this time and get a rebuilt engine and have them install it , YES , with a mother fu-kin warranty ..... hopefully within the next month or sooner , btw , before the engine blew i was getting ready to make some draggin video clips , as soon as i get the new engine in , i'll make some ............. :

well i don't need the RTV any more , THE FUCKIN ENGINE TOOK A SHIT ON ME !!!!!!! so now im gonna do it the right way and take it to a place where they put in a fresh rebuilt with a 3 year/ 30,000 mile warranty !!!!! so i just wasted close to a grand on that used motor and installation , i guess you live and learn ... so now im back to the drawing board ..........................

that looks like a major headache !!!! , the front end looks like it's not even there much less been modded with an updated front end . pass this one up .......

see if they (after market spring companies ; eibach, sprint , h&r , etc....) have a stiffer spring that has a higher weight load rating ..........

are those VIAIR 380's or 480's , or even if they are some other model , for instance , my 2 VIAIR 380's only draw 32 amps . so i think you have some other electrical issues , cause thats not that much of a draw on your battery ( equal to about a 300-500 watt audio amp ) . hope that helped........ btw , do not let your compressors run while the car is off , that can drain your battery some . if you have upgraded your electrical for a system (audio) , im pretty sure your getting a decent battery , right ? ,if you say yes , then that battery should be fine...................

you would have to be between 5'-5'5'' to fit and be able to drive that truck , im 6' 1'' , and i barely fit with the seat ALL the way back and nothing behind the seat . i couldn't even imagine having the seat up 8'' , i would be hugging the wheel .........................