All Night Long

Idk why not try to say something constructive instead of knocking down my spirtits

There's always gotta be haters everwhere doesn't there?^^^^^ Always trying to steal other people's glory.

Thanks guys for the positive comments. I'll make sure and post up some numbers after I attend the comps I'm going to next weekend. I have one on Saturday and Sunday. I did this build for bassrace and will run it on both days, but I am going to do drag on Saturday so I have a concrete number to display.

You're a funny guy, but I think you're dead wrong. I said that it may gain 5 db at most, but guarentee it has gained waaaaaaaaay more than a single db. You don't even know any of the details of the install that I first had metered, nor have you any information about my car other than what I have given you.

If your looking to get a fairly good battery then look into getting a Powermaster. I can't help you out on that because I'm not selling mine, but they can be had online from Summit Racing or Jeggs. Pound for pound they will out perform Kinetik's anyday.

I heard someone make a comment on Realm of Excursion saying that Kinetik was the JL of batteries. I have to agree with that fully. It's just like JL, overpriced and doesn't perform as well as the competition's more affordable product. Also like JL in the fact that you are paying for the name. When you buy a Powermaster battery you are getting just that POWER, not some bullshit battery that claims that it will put out said amps or amp hours. When PM does thier ratings they do them right. Powermaster FTMFW!!!

The reason why your truck sounds alot louder when the doors are open or when the windows are down is because you are getting a standing wave in the vehicle. This is when the wave from the subs cancel eachother out due to the wavelength paths colliding. In a very loud vehicle the wavelength from the sub or subs move across the roof and floor and crest at the dash or head rest resulting in the stereo to be really loud inside the vehicle. When you open the door you are allowing the subs to get more airspace and the wave changes, making the system a whole lot louder. I also have this problem in my car in the way it loads. No matter what I do to fix it I can only help it some, but not completely eliminate it. I can also do a hair trick in my car with the subs in the trunk. If I play the system with one of the doors open and someone is standing there you can see their clothes moving all over the place.

Send Rusty an email at [email protected] and ask him for a price on it and also remember to give him your zip code so he can figure the shipping.

The guy who told me this is Jared Crozier, and he is from the same area as Kent from H&K Audio. Kent is the owner of SPL Cell and from what I understand he told Jared that these were the same batteries, and he put them out on the market to compete with the Kinetik's. I can't help it if you don't want to believe what I'm telling you, I just had this conversation on the phone with Jared a couple of weeks ago. Just because I'm new to this forum doesn't mean I'm new to mobile electronics. I've been competing in db drag for 9 years and also installing professionally for 3.5 years. So next time before you make funny faces at me find out who you are talking to.

I just might have to give that a shot. Thanks for the suggestion

I had to pull the deck out that far to get it to stop skipping so damn much. I hope the new deck fixes the problem, but if not I'm just gonna add a changer.

A little vid I made today.

I just recently finished my build from 2 DC level 4 10's in a trunk wall to 2 level 4 12's in 4cuft firing to the rear in my 4 door Escort. This car really sucks for numbers because there is a huge problem with the standing wave in it, but when the doors are open or the window is down this thing pounds. A run down of the equipment is 2 DC level 4 12's with dual 1 ohm level 5 coils, 1 Crunch Gp 3000D, Pioneer deh-p6500 (my deh-p6000ub will be here tomorrow), 1 Powermaster XS Power D3100 battery, 1 Cerwin Vega EXL400.4 amp for mids and highs, 1 set of MB Quart Reference 6.5" components in kick panels, 1 JVC CS-FS5 5.25" component in doors with tweeters above kicks, 2 runs of 0 guage and also 2 runs of 4 guage to the rear of the car, and 150sqft of sound deadening throughout the car. I didn't take any pics of the build being done, but here are a few of it finished and also some of the subs. Also a little video of the car in action. Can you say flex? The 10's that I had right before I did the 12's were doing a 141.4 on the dash, and I would have to say that these 12's maybe up to 5 db louder than the 10's, but I won't know until I get the car on a meter next weekend. Enjoy and DC FTW!!!!! the subs another shot trunk shots amp pics

Well, speaking from experience I haven't heard the new btl's but I just sold my fully loaded btl that was made in March. And I got 2 DC level 4 10's, but upgraded them to 12's with the level 5 coils. I would say as far as sound quality the DC's sound better. As far as spl the btl metered higher, but I haven't had the 2 level 4 12's meterd yet so we'll see in the long run. I know I only had a single btl, but it was louder than 2 level 4 10's, so there's potential in each area. I know these aren't either of the subs that were asked about, but it does have relevance to help in chosing the woofer to run. I'll make sure to tell the score of the 2 level 4 12's after next weekend when I get them metered.

Go with the 2 12's. I have 2 of the level 4 12's with 2cuft per sub on a single Crunch Groundpounder pro3000D. Can you say windshield flex? You could do the single 15, but imo the 2 12's have the potential to get louder. Nice car btw.

For 12's you're looking for about 2 cubes per woofer with 30sqin of port per driver. I believe the guy I was telling you about runs two Hifonics Brutis 2607D's per sub strapped at 1 ohm, but it might be 2 ohm I'm not for sure. I do know that he is running the amps strapped in some configuration. The 2 cubes is about right on the box size, but the 30sqin is just an estimate from what I've seen work with them. This is not his actual setup. I have done type r 12's with as little as 24sqin per sub to as much as 44sqin per sub and they've worked out well. I had a single 12" in my car off of a RF 75.2 which was about 125 watts and it did a 138.5 on the dash out of the trunk. The box was 2.8 cubes with 36sqin of port tuned to 37hz. I never really got to put any power on it before I sold it, but the guy who bought it from me now has a Quantum Audio 1800D on it in 2 cubes in a 87 Escort hatch and is doing low 144's on the dash with it.

That battery is actually the same exact battery as the SPL Cell 1500. I was told this by a friend of Kent who started SPL Cell. In comparison the power sonic battery would definately compare to the HC 2400. From what I was told the SPL Cell 1500 was made to contend with the Kinetik also. And the power sonic is the same as the spl cell, so it does compare to the Kinetik.

The only type of magnet I can think of that is lighter than a regular ferrite magnet is a neodydium(sp?) magnet. It is a much lighter, much stronger magnet than that of a conventional strontium ferrite.

There is a guy in DB Drag with 4 12" Type R's in an Explorer doing 154+ Db. I would say that is definately wanging.

lol, I'd like to have a crx as a paper weight too!

From what I've heard they are 50+ pound paper weights. I personally have never heard one, but they look like they are built pretty well. But if they were a great kick ass sub then don't you think we would have heard more about them and seen a whole lot more people running them. It says on their site that they are in their 3rd year of business. Well by the 3rd year of business RE, FI, DD, and DC were extremely well know. I'm not exactly sure but I don't even know if DC has been around for 3 years and way more people know of and use their subs. So I would say products are sold by word of mouth and there aren't many mouths talking about this product, except bad that I've heard.

I'd do a wall and the chick in A&W's signature too!!!! Where did you find that beauty? The girl, I know where to get the subs.

Damn! That thing sounds hella loud.

I was reading a post on Termpro a little while ago about a guy over in Europe that had 2 10" Type R's with an aeroport doing 148's in a trunk car. Here is a link to the thread. http://audioforum.termpro.com/topic/8/26791.html There you go, maybe that will help you a little bit.

Depends on how many subs you are going to use. If you plan on using 2 12's do a box with 2cuft per driver with 60sqin of port area tuned to whatever you want to. Fire the subs and port back with the port on the driver's side of the car. I would also reccomend using 45 degree angles in the corners of the box to help with the airflow. You could even try using aeroports, but I cannot help you there as I have no experience with them. If you plan on using the 4 12's just double everything that I told you for the 2 12's. I hope that helps. If you need anymore help let me know I'll be glad to assist you.