MECHMAN

I agree, I was merely speculating as to why he has heard that HO alt internal regulators go out. It doesn't make sense to me either, but you would be surprised how often someone's "high output" alternator comes through my door with a stock POS transpo regulator in it. Usually though, they don't fail because it has a stock rotor in it. Most little local alternator rebuilding shops stock WAI and Transpo brand components because they are cheap and easy to get, but they arn't really up to the task of higher output stuff.

1991 called, it wants it's show-truck back.

Often times to get more than 200 amps with any kind of decent idle output, a "hotter" custom rotor needs to be used, which can draw a lot more amperage. The rotor current draw (up to 12 amps in some cases) has to be carried by the regulator. Most stock internal regulators (and cheap aftermarket pieces) can only carry 6-8 amps before they pop. There are many heavy-duty internal regulators available capable of carrying the additional rotor draw, so it really depends on what the builder is using for a rotor and regulator combination. - this is one possible explaination of the regulator failure the CRX guy is talking about. Another possible explaination is that a 200+ amp alternator is going to generate more heat. An internal regulator is mounted in the alternator, and therefore endures the same temperatures of the alternator. Typically, we never have a heat or rotor related regulator failure, because of the regulators that we use. -it all just depends on what a builder is using inside the alternator. An external regulator is not necessary with a well-built alternator, but it certainly has it's advantages. ...just a little FYI.

There are several people using an MLA module with one of our alts, they work fine on all of our alternators eccept the CS series with adjustable voltage, and the import large case conversions.

bump.

OK, I still have a few left, so you never know, I might still have one left when you are ready.

I have had good luck selling display models for $150 + shipping. Yours should sell for that if they are in good shape.

I still have 4 chargers left. Everyone should have one of these around the shop, just for charging normal batteries.

Bump.

I still have couple of these chargers left!

I don't think that you are lame because you back Irragi products, I think you are lame because you started trashing up my personal for-sale thread, and because you are trying to associate my company with posts put up by my customers. That is like saying that Chevrolet makes bad products becasue a guy that I don't like drives a chevy. I don't bash MLA products, and I didn't bash Kinetik batteries anywhere in my post. I was merely replying to a question from one of MY customers, and I simply disagree that it is good to charge a 12V AGM battery on the 16V setting of a Powermaster battery charger, and I backed everything I said up with factual scientific information. Mechman = Dozens of satisfied SMD member customers, and an excellent customer service reputation.

I agree with the theory of your statement in that time is a part of the equation, but you are proving my point with your own statement: Yes AGM batteries are recombinant, but the liberated gasses need to be INSIDE the case of the battery to recombine. The hissing noise that your hear when an AGM battery is gassing, is those gasses escaping out the case's one-way vent valve, never to return. Go through enough charging cycles that way, and much of your electrolyte (and battery capacity) has flown the coop. I'm not saying that you can't whack an AGM battery with 15.8 volts for a few minutes without damaging it, but charging a 12V battery on the 16V setting ABSOLUTELY will provide a balloon like battery case and a 65lb paperweight. I've personally seen it occur from accidentally setting it on 16V mode many times. And you're right, reading is fundamental, it says 8 hours from full discharge to full charge at 14.5 "boost" mode. (not 72 hours) I'm not trying to start a pissing contest here, I'm sure you do charge your batteries at a higher rate, but you might be surprised how much of your battery capacity may have been lost, depending on charge tempurature and duration of charging at that voltage/amperage. Not to mention, if I recal you have quite a number of batteries in your vehicle, which is going to spread out the 300 amps of charge current amongst all of them. I am merely speaking from personal expieriece of what gets brought back to me for warranty and why. I've had numerous conversations with Scotty Johnson, head of engineering at Powermaster batteries, and he has provided me with a wealth of information, all sourced from reputable publications within the battery industry. You could call up Rich at Kinetik, and I'm sure he would advise you not to charge Kinetik batteries above 15 volts (for more than a few minutes) either.

Bump. I need to move these chargers, and I hate to put them on e-bay.

Oh, my bad. I guess Kinetik and Powermaster didn't know what they were doing when they designed their battery chargers. I just do what the directions say in case I ever have to warranty one. Here's a quote from the kinetik powersupply/charger instruction manual: http://www.kinetikaudio.com/downloads.asp "GENERAL INFORMATION Kinetik Intelligent 120 VAC to 12 VDC Power Converters are state-of-the-art electronic converters / battery chargers. Their compact size and quiet operation gives greater flexibility in selecting the mounting locaiton for either OEM installation or after market replacement. The Kinetik Intelligent Power Converters have a computer controlled charging module built in. This is a microprocessor-controlled device which constantly monitors the battery, and then automatically adjusts the converter output voltage based on its charge status. There are four (4) operating Modes (NORMAL, BOOST, STORAGE and DESULFATION/EQUALIZE). Each mode is automatically selected by the microprocessor and ensures a fast yet safe recharge for your battery. See the chart below for details. The chart below shows the amount of time it took a converter set to three different output voltages to recharge a 125Ah (Amp Hour) battery after it was discharged to 10.5 volts. GENERAL INFORMATION (continued...) 14.4 Volts (Boost Mode) Returned the battery to 90% of full charge in approximately 8 hours. The battery reached full charge in approximately 11 hours. 13.6 Volts (Normal Mode) Required 40 hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 78 hours to reach full charge. 13.2 Volts (Storage Mode) Required 60 hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 100 hours to reach full charge. The integrated intelligent microprocessors ability to change the output voltage of the converter will significantly reduce the amount of time it takes to recharge your battery. The lower voltage for Storage mode prevents gassing and reduces water loss during long-term storage. GENERAL OPERATION The Kinetik Intelligent Power Converters will supply “clean” nominal 13.6 VDC (Normal Mode) power from input voltages that range from 90-130 VAC. The Kinetik Intelligent Power Converters are primarily designed for use with a battery, however, the output of the Kinetik converters are a regulated, filtered D.C. voltage that can power sensitive electronics without the need for a battery or other filtering. NOTICE At normal input voltages the full load rated capacity is available. At input voltages less than 105 VAC the converter may not supply full rated output capacity. The full rated load is available for load, battery charging or both. When functioning as a regulated battery charger, the Kinetik converters have a nominal voltage output of 13.6 VDC. The system was designed to sense voltage on the battery and automatically selects one of 4 operating modes (normal, boost, storage and desulfation/equalization) to provide the correct charge level to the batteries. NORMAL MODE: Output voltage set at 13.6 volts DC. This voltage provides good charging rates and low water usage. BOOST MODE: If the converter senses that the battery voltage has dropped below a preset level the output voltage is increased to 14.4 volts DC to rapidly recharge the batteries.STORAGE MODE: When the converter senses that there has been no significant battery usage for approximately 30 hours the output voltage is reduced to 13.2 volts DC for minimal water usage. DESULFATION/EUALIZATION MODE: When in storage mode the microprocessor automatically increases the output voltage to 14.4 volts for 15 minutes every 21 hours to reduce the buildup of sulfation on the battery plates."

Thanks Droopy, it will ship today! I still have some of these chargers avaialble.

It should be on AGM/ gell, 25 amp. You are splitting the amperage between two bats, so 25amps will definitely not be too much, and the gell setting will charge at a lower voltage so that the Kinetik doesn't get overcgarged and gas. It won't hurt the flooded battery to be charged at 14.8 volts.

No prob. I still have a couple of these chargers left for an awsome price.

Very true statement, unless the alternator builder happens to be the only company who has spec'd out lower impedance rotors and regulators capable of supporting them. If that were the case, 150 amps at idle is a piece of cake at 260 amps peak...

Hey EagleScorpio1, just shipped your charger out, thanks!

I have a few Powermaster battery chargers that I am going to let go. These are the top of the line 1005 chargers that will charge any battery, flooded, AGM, 12 volt, 16 volt, whatever. These are totally automatic, and are definitely the nicest chargers I've ever used; just hook them up to your ride and they will automatically charge or maintain your batteries for as long as you want. These have just been used around the shop to maintain our in stock batteries, and they are in BRAND NEW condition. They are less than a year old, so they are still under warranty through Powermaster. These are $300 anywhere on the web, I'm letting them go for $179 shipped Anyone that plays with car audio should have a good battery charger. I've even brought back customer's batteries that tested bad to a usable state with these chargers! We take PayPal, credit or debit cards. Holler at me: 1-888-MECHMAN

my bad, double post.

Our alternator dyno can convert killowatt consumption from the tester motor to HP, and one of out 250 amp units avarages 7HP to turn at full tilt. I definitely do notice a loss of power on my Silverado with 3 alts, but I can still pull my car trailer with the system cranked. 6.0L FTW.

If it is for a 200 Blazer in your sig, I have a 200 amp ProPower series Large case on clearance for $239 shipped, I could have it to you tomorrow. Holler at me if you can find another $40.

That is a high efficiency swept blade turbo fan, it moves about 15% more air than a traditional baffled straight blade fan. When designing the profile of that fan, we paid an outside lab for airflow analysis. Running that fan backwards decreases airflow through the back rectifier opening by almost 20%, which can definitely be an issue on a 250 amp alternator. Just make sure you don't run it maxed out for more than short periods at one setting wihtout unloading it and giving it a chance to cool. We will always warranty a burnt stator once, even if it was clearly from abuse. The rectifiers we use will NOT burn up from heat, I've tried to fail them intentionally and have not been able to.

I'll be ordering some gear for my guys to wear at shows. Nice work on the designs!