Quiet

Seriously? Take one baffle, spread a lot of glue on it, then put another baffle on top. Use clamps or concrete blocks to put pressure between the two. Let dry for a day then make your cutout... really slow...

A poor build killed the last box... Lots of bracing, if you're concerned about losing volume to bracing try using 1" dowels or 3/4" threaded rods with nuts and washers. Use wood glue and clamps instead of relying on screws to hold it together, and don't forget to double baffle! EDIT: Sorry I came off sounding like a complete dick with that first line.... Don't let that get you down- we were all where you are at one point.

I like to see what people can do with little money... please brace the hell out of that box! OSB is probably not the best substrate for subwoofer enclosures. But atleast it's not prefab

What does Orion say about it?

true.... ever put it on a dyno? You don't have to do much to an LT1 to get a hundred more ponies out of it... you can get 350 out of it going cold air, exaust, and a big TB. Torky as hell too.

Hi, I'm Steven. I'm an aging basshead (Ok i"m 31) who started living vicariously through others by building their systems and never really having any real beat of my own. I had 2 JL 10w1s and they never satisfied me, so I sold them to help get better stuff to build a real system for my self... or so I thought. For now I got an alpine CDA-9807, soundstream tarantula 6.5 coaxes and a RF Punch 1 15, all to be run off my POS jensen 300 watt rms 4 channel. So in the midst of collecting equipment I find mr Steve Meade's youtube page... then SMD forums, and now I find myself wanting MOAR POWAH! For now I'll build with what I got, but being that I got a family to support I got to be frugal... All my build will be with a mind towards the future... meaning that when I build a box or run cable or whatever, it will be with the mindset that it WILL SEE ME THROUGH UPGRADES! I can't afford to waste money by having to build a new box just because I got a bigger sub... The box I plan to build for my RF will take the DC Level 4 I plan to replace it with soon. Thanks for having me, glad to be here.

So in other words.... "those illegals are probably all related" would be politically correct.

No, I wouldn't think that to myself. I would probably think that I dislike hood rats. Then you aren't racist... I dont' think that most of us are... it's just that we express our hatred the wrong way. Just sayin.

Class-ism is more realistic than racism, anyway. Think of it like this... If you see some black guys harassing some old lady and they rob her purse and run, you think to your self "I hate ni---s" or something like that. That is your ignorance talking. The way to think about it is like this: "I hate ghetto punk thugs" or something to that effect, taking color of skin out of it. Now you're not racist, your classist, which is A-OK! Those fuckers could've been Mexican, White, or Asian and still they're "ghetto thugs" or if you're in Texas, you get your gun out and get the fucking purse back.

That's funny Hahaha. I work for a small company in north TX and I was tasked with driving the moving truck we were using to move into a new office we bought. Anyway, we have a couple guys that work production who are Mexican and they were riding in the truck with me to go get another load of furniture. They speak broken english at best and I was joking around saying that we were going south to Brownsville (the border) to pick up some immigrants and they got pissed when they found out I was kidding. I had to buy them a 12 pack to calm them down, LOL!

The best way is just like theydontwantmusic said. If your joints are tight you can use wood glue and clamps to build a box with no screws/nails. Titebond wood glue will bond stronger than MDF is itself. Then just use a cheap squeeze tube of caulking to seal the inside seams. But then again, the first few enclosures I built I used fine thread sheetrock screws in predrilled holes, then sealed it up with caulk and no glue. Those boxes held up well (I only put 10w1s in them not like I was stressing it at all) and I know 2 of them are still being used 14 years later. Once you build a few you'll find the glue only technique works well.

Actually, they can still easily get the data. You would have to overwrite every byte with false data, MULTIPLE times to completely get rid of it. The switch /p:3 does a 0 wipe three times. Like I said, you'd have to go mil spec data recovery to get it after that. If he has stuff on that drive that's worth $50,000 to recover, then he can point out his buddy for the mass murder warrant they must have. That's enough wipe for him. And he doesn't have to download and install anything. That switch works in vista and 7.

DC level 2 or 3's? I don't know if the price is comparble. Just throwing it out there. I don't know what you're going for, but splittin 2k among 8 subs isn't much, Seems a waste to buy big coil subs just to underpower them. Too bad you didn't ask this 2 weeks ago, Amazon.com was selling RF P1 15s for $41 shipped... x2 on the DC lv2 15s, FWIW

Careful about posting vids like that... I've read stories about how dudes got arrested... it's video evidence. But hella nice ride, I always wanted a 9x impala.

Easy. Just do this... Figure out which drive letter it is. Go to the start menu and click on run, then type CMD [enter] In the new window type this after the > *NOTE* change the x: to reflect the correct drive letter, first! format x: /fs:ntfs /p:3 That will erase every bit of data and wipe it 3 times. They'd have to go military grade data recovery to even have a chance at the data. No, I don't have to hide shit a lot, I'm just a net admin by trade.

If you don't want to take it apart, you could pre-drill and use sheetrock screws, I guess. x2 on the Titebond, it's bond is stronger than the MDF. I don't see that you even really have a choice,since it's probably not feasible to take it apart anyway. Most likely you'd damage the MDF removing the liquid nails.

Go yellow top. Seems like hell trying to get an XS where you are. Unless you are counting every little db, get the optima now. The red top won't give you much reserve like the yellow top. The yellow is like a deep cycle/starting hybrid type battery so you get better performance when your alt can't keep up. The blue top isn't really good to run with an alt in a car, but on a boat it's fine.

I built 2 boxes that way. Built a 4th order bandpass in my bedroom too, even cut the holes for the ports and subs with a jigsaw and spent 1 hour vacuuming my carpet. Ahhhh, those were the days.

Yes, dozens. All of the first extra-solar planets discovered were Jupiter sized and larger. There are even failed stars that have become very large planets. They may even be rogue and not be any where near a solar system. I'm sure there's billions out there... I was just hoping someone was gonna drop a name. Here's to the Wikipedia

Hmmm Atleast we're scalable to the largest planet in the vid, Jupiter, but it seems after it shows the Sun, they're all stars at that point... Does anyone know of larger planets out there than Jupiter?

MoAR Pics, please I'm a little inspired now... I'm doing a single 15 and planing to upgrade soon... I see a lot of DC/AQ combos doing mad numbers, congrats!

FTW!

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm Hope you find this informative

1/0 (one ought) is simply 0 gauge 2/0 is 00 gauge 4/0 is 0000 gauge