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aburger

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aburger last won the day on November 22 2018

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About aburger

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    Male
  • Location
    Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests
    Mini Trucks, Car Audio, Motion Graphics

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  1. Gotta a soft spot for Trucks. In the process of redoing my Dakota, not nearly as beastly as your build (not even close), but you've given me some great ideas. Thanks for the inspiration! Looking forward to your other builds.
  2. Awesome, thank you so much for the confirmation. Yes, the port will be 6" pipe running the entire length of 37" with the 90 degree elbow like you suggested. I can't wait to try this out! Thanks again!
  3. Whoops, forgot the rest: (3)Sundown E8 v5 subs (D2 running at 1.3 Ohms) Power is roughly 1250 watts off a Crescendo S1v2 Optimal port area should be 39 Square inches Came up with a 6" Aero Port at 37" long Tuned to 32 Hz based on Sundowns requirements Sub enclosure is 1.8 cubic feet before adding the port and other displacement Not sure about my calculations, it seems my Port area is too high but not sure.
  4. Well, I'm still here, trying to figure out my original idea. I've come up with a crude image of the box I"m going for which will include (3) Sundown E8 v5's (D2 for a 1.3 Ohm load) and a 6" round Aero port at 37" long. To achieve this, I'll have to run the port at a 90 degree bend along the back of the box. I haven't been able to find any definitive information about bending Aero ports and the consequences on noise and efficiency, so I think I'm just going to try it and see. My concern really is the length of the port, and if I'm meeting the optimal required port area. The parameters are as follows: - (3) Sundown E8 v5 subs (D2 running at 1.3 Ohms)
  5. Phoenix Gold XS4600...Loved that amp!
  6. Just ordered one, now I just need to figure out where to mount it. Thanks for the wiring info, didn't think of doing it that way. Do you notice any signal loss running through the RCA splitter?
  7. FYI, it doesn't really show it, but there is about a half inch gap cut out of the bed opening around the flange to account for the bed movement. I'm also spraying herculiner on the entire bed interior and on the front of the bed to keep the water out. The flange will also be sprayed with Steel-IT to keep moisture out. Remember, water and the elements are your enemy here, so take as many precautions as you can before finishing your install, or you'll have problems down the road.
  8. As someone who went through two itterations of boot on their blow-through/cut-through, make sure you don't have any bare metal when you attach the boot. Like an idiot, I clamped on my boot to bare metal and a year later it started to leak because water got in and rusted the boot clamp. I'm in the process of welding on a flange to the cab that sticks into the bed. That way the only part I have to seal is where the flange enters the cab. I'll be posting pics soon on my build log, but have attached a couple so you can see what I'm talking about.
  9. Where'd you get the graphic spectrum analyzer? That's something I'd love to get!
  10. Found the PAC AmpPRO AP4-TY12 at Crutchfield. Should fit the bill. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541AP4TY12/PAC-AmpPRO-AP4-TY12-Amplifier-Replacement-Interface.html?tp=6346 I assume this is what you need?
  11. Awesome!!! Thanks again for your help, looks like I found my setup...time to gather materials and start building.
  12. OK, so I switched it up a bit. Hopefully this works! I decided on (2) Sundown SA-8v3's. Using the same Crescendo amp running at 2 Ohms gives me 1000 Watts RMS which matches the subs perfectly. Using your port area calculator, I came up with 33 Sq in optimal for 1.5 Cubic Feet, tuned to 35Hz, running at 1K at 2 Ohms. That being said, the slot port would be 4" wide, 7.5" high, and 37.5" deep. Hopefully this is correct.
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