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aburger

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aburger last won the day on November 22 2018

aburger had the most liked content!

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About aburger

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Los Angeles, CA
  • Interests
    Mini Trucks, Car Audio, Motion Graphics

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  1. Just ordered one, now I just need to figure out where to mount it. Thanks for the wiring info, didn't think of doing it that way. Do you notice any signal loss running through the RCA splitter?
  2. FYI, it doesn't really show it, but there is about a half inch gap cut out of the bed opening around the flange to account for the bed movement. I'm also spraying herculiner on the entire bed interior and on the front of the bed to keep the water out. The flange will also be sprayed with Steel-IT to keep moisture out. Remember, water and the elements are your enemy here, so take as many precautions as you can before finishing your install, or you'll have problems down the road.
  3. As someone who went through two itterations of boot on their blow-through/cut-through, make sure you don't have any bare metal when you attach the boot. Like an idiot, I clamped on my boot to bare metal and a year later it started to leak because water got in and rusted the boot clamp. I'm in the process of welding on a flange to the cab that sticks into the bed. That way the only part I have to seal is where the flange enters the cab. I'll be posting pics soon on my build log, but have attached a couple so you can see what I'm talking about.
  4. Where'd you get the graphic spectrum analyzer? That's something I'd love to get!
  5. Found the PAC AmpPRO AP4-TY12 at Crutchfield. Should fit the bill. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541AP4TY12/PAC-AmpPRO-AP4-TY12-Amplifier-Replacement-Interface.html?tp=6346 I assume this is what you need?
  6. Awesome!!! Thanks again for your help, looks like I found my setup...time to gather materials and start building.
  7. OK, so I switched it up a bit. Hopefully this works! I decided on (2) Sundown SA-8v3's. Using the same Crescendo amp running at 2 Ohms gives me 1000 Watts RMS which matches the subs perfectly. Using your port area calculator, I came up with 33 Sq in optimal for 1.5 Cubic Feet, tuned to 35Hz, running at 1K at 2 Ohms. That being said, the slot port would be 4" wide, 7.5" high, and 37.5" deep. Hopefully this is correct.
  8. Thanks again! I actually downloaded your calculator the other day and totally forgot to look at it. I've been trying to figure out the best option for a while now and I keep confusing myself. I'll plug the specs into your calculator and read up more to see if I can understand this a little better.
  9. Sorry, I'm so confused. Why do all the port calculators say I only need one or two aero ports. For instance, I used the calculator at http://www.decibelcar.com/apps/108-slotcalc.html and it says for an enclosure volume of 2.25, tuned to 32 Hz, I can use (2) 3" round ports with a length of 14.34" each. Are these calculators incorrect, or am I just reading this wrong? Sorry again for all the Noob questions.
  10. The dimensions listed are the usable internal dimensions.
  11. If this really doesn't seem feasible, I may have to drop down to two subs.
  12. Cool, thanks so much for the help! I probably should have mentioned the box dimensions because that will affect the length of the ports. The usable width is 38.5", height is only 7.5", but the depth can be up to 14". That being said, I'll have to bend the ports around the back of the box. Does it matter how long the bend can be?
  13. Well holy crap, hahaha! I wasn't expecting that! Thanks for the info, looks like I'll be rethinking my layout. Would it be possible to split it up and do two slot ports with 18 sq inches of port area each? That way I can put a port on either side of the box with the three subs in the middle.
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