raytard

x2 on the broken box, its a surprisingly common thing, and its a pretty distinct noise, but i couldnt really tell from your vid. when you have the subs out just push and pull at all the sides of the box and make sure none wiggle. sometimes a glue joint will break and the carpet holds it together, but lets it move enough to slap together and make some bad noises.

that lanzar is maybe good for like 1000 watts, and is that 8g? and those are REALLY old atomics. 75 seems cool so long as everything works, enjoy the decade+ old used stuff.

thats one of his quietest songs honestly.... atleast in my car i know the words to that song...which means i've heard them...lsten to "hood up" or "nickelodeon"

or, if its a daily setup and youd rather just bang all day than show off for a minute and wonder if you blew anything up, get a single dc3000 and d1 subs

if you dont have a multimeter or o-scope, do it the raytard way gain on zero, boost on zero, phase at 0, lpf on ~80hz (may be more or less adjustments, those are general ones) set radio to 7/8ths volume or so, basically as loud as you'd ever play it, the point where everything is about to distort turn gain up on amp slowly until you hear audible distortion, and then back off about 1/8 turn all set. as to where that point of distortion is, noone knows, thats why the friggin knob is there. mine are less than 1/4, but i've run the same amp at more than 3/4. edit: forgot to say, play a song with LOUD bass in it, i use "bubble up" by gucci mane cuz its just OD loud bass, louder than most any other song would ever have. boomin and bunkin-oj da juiceman, hood up-gucci mane, get em jeezy-young jeezy.....songs like that.

yea, you'll see the headache you have ahead of you when you start measuring how tall the space at the hump is and such. honestly, the nicest setups ive seen in that kinda car were 4-12's across the rear deck (port wherever you want, center of bucket seats is fine) and a 4th order that was all fancy and clean in the trunk (requisite plexi window and such) that was ported through the deck i love the sound of 18's, but from playing with your car, if you do 1 18 down in the well, sub and port up, you can build an amazing box and show off all your stuff and do a show quality install. 2 will REALLY be pushing even fitting it in there, let alone doing it ideally or making it look good. and you wanna mess with a whole lot of power, "with great power comes great responsibility" , its on YOU if shit blows, sounds weird, etc. its a lot of work getting a stable system that powerful, especially for daily. hell, i dont think my subs have been off of a -12cut in a week, because its so damn loud. i just turn it up to demo or show off and then turn it back down again (honestly to the level where my 2-12's were however many installs and thousands of dollars ago that was.)

yeea, you're only using one of the coils on yourr subs, thats all sorts of wrong

i've literally been burned on alpine amps the pdx's arent anywhere near as bad, but some of the v's and m's got seriously hot, even sitting out in the open in a trunk. if you got a cool running one you're lucky. and these amps all do their rated power, but a 10% variance is less of a variance then car to car voltage differences.

it needs to be a fat16 or fat32 like said before, look for a program called "partition magic" cuz windows wont make a fat partiition bigger than 32 gigs. i've used that one on my pioneer decks so once itss formatted it should work. theres some fine print about h/u's only supporting like a .5amp draw over the usb and such, any higher and the unit just shuts it down.

yea, work em over on the price though, its an older model and would sell for that much brand new with a warrantee i'm assuming its used, so 200 seems fair so long as its in really good condition

wouldnt say better, but it looks comparable you can def use it for car audio so long as its being sold like 250 bux or so or less

its 50 watts....thats like a .1db increase at that point. Dont worry about it too much, its barely enough to hear. and watch it on lower impedances, they like to get hot. the v's were worse but the mrp's arent cool running by any means.

glad to see i'm not the only one that deadened their bumper, lol

those cars can be stolen in seconds, even if you scrap the thing for 200 bux, it was basically worth it. people leave hundreds of dollars of stuff in their cars as well, tools in the toolbox on the pickup, cd's, ciggs, change, (stereo systems that can be gutted out), rims, etc. the car itself may not be worth a ton, but its easy to move, doesnt draw attention, and its so damn easy. ever try and re-sell a lamborghini? if the friggin keys were in it noone would take it just because you couldnt do anything with it. 94 sentra? sell it on craigslist for 300 bux that day.

its a hobby my car is my DD, and i love having loud clean music in it the subs were honestly just there because i wanted to be able to hairtrick....no other reason really, i did it and now i'm sitting here with 1400lbs of hairtrick machine in my backseat that are on a 12db cut from normal volume so I can listen to music normally. i like dropping jaws and drawing crowds and being known for something that i created, not bought necessarily. and i'm a geek and all the science involved is kinda cool.

x2 on add but those cars are most stolen cuz theyre COMMON and EASY TO STEAL i can get into most hondas without breaking a window in under a minute...and starting requires little more than a vicegrip on a screwdriver and a solid tug to break the steering lock if it has one. aka that car can be stolen in under 2 minutes without even breaking a window...or well under a minute if you dont mind driving it home with some breeze. got a club on it? bolt cutter gets through the wheel in 5 seconds, and then you can just bend it so the club falls off. all of those cars are stolen cuz its too damn simple, not because the theifs want them

the new infiniti's with their quarter million speaker systems put one in each shoulder area facing up on either side of the headrest. but between a center, doors with mids and tweets, 4 across the seats, rears, woofer, its sounds like garbage. i mean i guess its loud and clean, but it has no warmth in the mids, no sparkle in the highs (no highs, no lows, it must be bose), no volume over what a single decent pair of components could put out, and a sound stage that sounds more like you're in a speaker than on a stage. basically its a gimmic as big as those acoustimass subwoofers and soundbars.

i dont really know much about 6th orders, but wouldnt the non-centered design load kinda weird? the center/center design looks more...correct

porting through the rear deck means the port is facing through a hole in the deck (usually partly outside the box so it comes to the level of the deck) you can just 4th order it, but personally i hate the sound.

i work all summer and all winter break (80-100 hour weeks) to support myself and the audio addiction. i'm not broke yet, but I'll probably be in the same position as last year selling textbooks to get enough gas money to get back home for winter break.....

you'll be fine, just use the common sense filter, if you're bangin them hard they may get smelly, and if youre playing some C&S shit you run the risk of bottoming out. either way back off.

i'd never use a speaker that costs less than the wire it takes to go from the hu to the door i'm sure they could sound better than stock, and im sure a good hu made them sound better, but a good hu would make stocks sound better too you just went from a 1 on the sq meter to like a 1.5. spend some money on nice speakers and an amp and find out what a 6 sounds like.

dont be afraid to just drill holes...i'm sure i could've found a way to get my power line through a grommet or something, but why bother when it takes literally 9 seconds with a uni-bit to make a hole in the firewall? p.s. use a uni-bit. buy some if you dont have them, theyre always useful and make the job soooooo much easier than a standard wood bit.

if you really really take your time with a jigsaw you can make it happen, but a router is better and faster, not gonna lie as you can see, my molds with black sharpie lines that were cut out with a diegrinder and cutoff wheel, and all the rings i cut out by hand with a jigsaw. theyre obviously not perfect, but its close, and after fleece and glass and resin and bondo and whatnot it came out pretty smooth and clean.

mark where you want to cut with a sharpie, cut close to it or on it the best you can, and then just kinda use it to sand down until its perfect. you're not trying to cut it initially perfect, just kinda close and then just sand it till its perfect.