raytard

hooray toyota! but for real, i wanna get a gto/g6/8 when they get dirt cheap next summer or so...rims tints, small system, and some go fast goodies and i'd be set...i kinda just want a bigger stickshift car with some balls...

that ebay wire says 13 mil, which is like 5/0 wire...which means its all bullshit cheap wire is usually like say 4guage labled as 0guage with a thick jacket on it you dont think of it, but when you're pulling 100-200amps through there and that shit melts and catches fire, you'll be kicking yourself for not spending the extra 20-40 bux for good stuff, power wire isnt something to pinch pennies on IMO http://cgi.ebay.com/KnuKonceptz-Metallic-B...:1|293:1|294:50 knukoncepts is great wire, and pretty darn cheap too....monster is (atleast in my opinion and experience) slightly bigger and therefore better, but not worth the cost difference. knu ftw and keep - as large as +, Few people realize this but the electrons flow from your car, through the - wire/terminal, and then back to the battery via the +...but current goes the other way...some weird thing back in the day when they were discovering electricity. the ground is as important, if not more important, than the + wire, make it big, and make it to BARE METAL, chassis/frame perferably, scrape and buff it until its shiney, no paint/rust/etc.

yea, the stealth and 3000gt (and eagle talon) are all dsm platform cars iirc and from what i remember, they do some funky crank walk things at like 100-125k (or much lower if its a turbo version) must admit, a turbo mitsu gsx version was like one of the most fun cars i've ever driven, mr2 feel kinda like a dog in comparison, its pretty beefy and it shows when you push it.

no capacitor we should have a banner that says "CAPS ARE FUCKING USELESS" and in tiny print under it "unless you have electrical to back up your system and are using it to smooth voltage ripples inherent in high current usage" for the price of a cap, get a bigger batt up front and good 0g to run to the back, and you should be fine (by good i mean name brand like knukonceptz/monster/rockford/jl...NOT pyle/tsunami/installation bay/poweracoustik/etc) a good front batt (like they said a hc1400, or the biggest AGM type you can fit in there) and good og and a good bare metal ground are all you should need to keep that amp happy.

youre only going to fit one you wont find a used one mechman, powermaster, or click/call dcpower, the banner is at the top of the page, all of them have great alternators, you may have to settle for less amperage because of size constraints (I can only fit a like 200amp in my car, anything significantly more powerful needs a bigger case) best bet is to call, so you can talk to a professional and they can tell youw hats available, how hard it is to install, what you will need, prices, warrantee, etc. like you were told in the other thread, you're going to need a battery bank to keep it all going, you're going to have to bump responsibly and watch your voltage, and if you want that kind of power you probably will have to hook your batteries up to a charger once in a while(if you want to bump full blast all day every day, which you honestly may not be able to handle, even my 1500 watts and 8's gets uncomfortable after like an hour or so and I turn it down a few notches for road trips)

sating above 12 youre in the clear, some amps are overly sensitive to voltage drops, but rockford luckily isnt one of those (and your drop is next to nothing honestly, dont worry about it)

some have those adjustable rubber bumpstops you can unscrew a little to toghten it up (but may require you to sit on the lid to close it...made a big difference in my car honestly) dynamat the metal, dynamat the license plate, get the thick rubber weatherstripping from home depot and put it over the existing rubber to like thicken it up and make it stiffer to give the hatch more resistance

hmmmmmmm i bet i could deep fry that...or atleast a smaller version...i have to make some calls

http://www.sneakerbistro.blogspot.com/ local sneaker stop down the block from my job www.specialsauce.com i'm rocking my nylon dunk high's (light as hell and waterproof for upstate ny winters) i'm not so much of a nike person, i'm feeling the DC versatile's right now, never had shoes so comfy, or that held up so damn well

im kinda in the boat of get a job in a shop and learn from experience. Schools can only teach you so much (same goes for product training/snake pit/rtti/etc) I've seen a few guys either boces or audio school trained who just didn't do some minor stuff right, and it all added up (being slow to wire harnesses, running cables wrong, technically doing stuff right but doing something dumb along the way like breaking panels or assuming that a 2000watt pyle amp needs 0g wires) experience>schooling imo. And keep in mind that 90% of work is alarms and decks, all that cool stuff you dream about is a 1/1000 install

get in the car and manually lock with the button in the car, if it doesnt do it then, its the actuators going out. They are usually only good for like 10-12 years in my experience (and personally, my driver door is on its way out, doing the exact same as yours) if thats the case its an easy fix, assuming you didnt dynamat the door holes all up, iirc correctly they are pretty cheap and can be as changed as fast as a door speaker. if your car does unlock fine with the door button, time to troubleshoot some more....

the 200 is fine for a 1600 watt amp(you should have learned by now that RMS matters, max is a bad joke) they know what they are doing, that fuse should basically last you forever.

loudness just turns your bass setting on the eq up...its basically a bass boost you sure youre not just expecting too much of a sealed 10 on 500 watts? (dont say its a w7, its a speaker, and works like every other speaker on the planet, and still abides by the same laws of physics)

i think the multiple alternator setup is more of a "physical fitment" issue than a "too much current" issue meade's truck, he has a big ass space to put all those alternators (and quite a few other guys on here have similar setups) your vehicle, at the very least doesnt have a production dual/triple/quad alt bracket, and in some cars it just isnt physically possible to get it in there so either YOU make brackets, get alts, and make it all work, or deal with just having one alt, and get a battery bank to back up whatever amp you choose to go with (which is what i'm doing, and dozens of other people on here)

wwwwooooooowowwwwwwww get that fucker fired

i'm uuuhhhh acquiring this soon, i love my mixtapes gucci-nickelodeon is mad old, and beats pretty well iirc if youre looking for good bass, anything produced by zaytoven beats (gucci mane and oj da juiceman mostly, some other southern rappers as well) purple codeine mixtapes (i think the most recent is 23) street runnaz of course, swishahouse mixtapes/remixes stuff by dj envy or dj spinatik is usually pretty god as well

all you need is glue /discussion looks sick though, lets see some pics of it wrapped, i'm personally a fan of alcantara, idk why, its classy

8g to each amp is ok, not 2 amps on 1 8g (i'd still say use 0g to the back and split it, but that costs more obviously) as far as the test tones, they can be created at different gains...0db is normal, but some music can have +18 to +26db tones and notes, so keep that in mind assuming you have a 0db tone and did it at a decent volume(30 of 35 like you said), you should be fine, it seems like you did tune it correctly its going to be lower, the distortion and clipping can sound louder than a pure note, some competitors drive a clean signal to a soft clip to get extra volume, but like i said, this way is safer and correct, not necessarily the loudest

theres no problem with running different batts, and idk what kind bslapsyomomma's are or the specs, but for that price its probably your best bet i can get you an ill deal on anything kinetik/powermaster/optima if you want, hit me up when we're done with school

your amps were clipping to hell before and being way overdriven, now they are being driven properly yes its quieter, you turned it down, no shit its lower either you deal with it being lower and NOT BLOWING UP, you turn it up and blow stuff up, or upgrade

it makes almost no difference, just now your magnets and wiring is showing I've heard of it quieting down a little, theoreticaly the cone area is the same front and back, but stuff like coils/magnets/baskets tend to get in the way, it should be just about the same though for sq purposes the polarity should be swapped, otherwise you get a full 180degree phase shift, which can throw your bass off (most h/us have a polarity switcher so its no big deal...) some subs (some RE's are notorious for it) will exhibit very noticable mechanical noise, like tinsel slap, which can be very irritating that being said though, I ran 3 cvr's inverted in my friends truck for a while, we built the box drunk and didnt brace it so it kinda flexed and we threw it out, but it sounded great and we didnt have any problems with it

i found a tablesaw...motor wore out the brushes, it was like 2.50 to fix same thing for a corded dewalt drill i got a gokart frame MAD airconditioners, sell them for scrap and make a quick buck 3 couches and an entertainment center one of my friends got a junk 200sx, the guy charged him 2$ to find the title and sign it over, we joked that it had like 8 bux worth of gas in the tank. Its how we all learned how to drive stick

epic megalomaniac, lol you get what you pay for, and one of the cheapest deadeners isnt going to work any better than one of the cheapest sets of speakers yea, it may do what is supposed to, but it wont do it well, and it wont do it for long

yall are wylin chocolate chip ftmfw

i used dynamat extreme, but might try something else when i go nuts with it this summer, even at dealer pricing this stuff is pricier than second skin , workd great though, cant complain like said before, asphalt sucks, butyl is what you need, thicker is better