emperorjj1

Hey what model is it man?

what?! why would u do a swap like that?

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407984 whoops i just looked and u already posted in this thread... sorry

ah makes sense... reason i asked is because movement... ya i know dds are stiff as hell and dont really move much but still. I did the same with 1 of my XXX 15s prior to recone... tried it a 4 ohms first and didn't do anything. but at 1 ohm it took a minute or so

not to spoil your fun but what impadance did u have it at?

it would be the output side... the 360 only has 1 sub input/output so u would split the output into 2 or 4 funny i have a y splitter on both sides... 2 rcas to 1 going in and 1 rca to 2 going out

mmm 25 10s?

damn meade your crazy. reason why i asked was because I'm planning on getting sactownstangs T4k very soon and I'm now used to the gain knob from the sundown 3000d. I'm probably going to do the 360 "bass" knob to keep it somewhat of a gain knob instead of a bass boost but i wanted to see what all you did. oh and 98HOEONSIXEZ thought id fill you in, to be pimpin meade style you need 2 3sixty.2's

meade im sure you answered this somewhere but is your "bass knob" the bass knob from the amps or the subwoofer volume knob from the 3sixty?

someone has 2 05 15s on caraudio.com

^^^ im assuming out of the cracks and such is what he meant. actually drying the entire car is sorta of stupid but like i said it really helps especially on the trunk lid, my spoiler holds water like stupid, along with the seem by the window and the seem by the bumper itself. opening the thing after a wash just pours (or drips some but its enough to be worried not really enough that's stupid) water all over my amp so that's not much of an option

i do turn it up after drying the car. it gets the water out of the tight places that normally drip out on the drive home.

easiest way is obviously adding a center channel and getting a 5.1 capable HU but speakers will make a big diffrence when going 5.1

ya that volvo probably isnt the best idea then. You could get it alot louder then the grand prix but if your already finding out more issues with it i would probably pass or at least keep both like u were saying

np... i have a thread here somewhere with pics of how all he did my pods. Id be glad to answer any questions you have even thou im not really the one who did them

dont expect anything good. but for 30 bucks

you cant really get the fiberglass to hold onto the door panel so it must be attached somehow. I was actually going over this recently with the fiberglass guy at the shop who did my pods. Its all dependent on how you do them. Mine are thick heavy and have 2 big ass speakers. So they aren't adhered to the door panel at all. they are actually screwed into the metal of the door behind both speakers (4 screws). But a more recent pod hes working on is much smaller and actually is screwed to the door panel from the back(4-5 screws). He also mainly glued the ones he made for his truck to the door panel since they were so thin and stretched across the whole door. i think there was only 1 screw the rest was ca glue. You really need to get the shape of the door somehow thou. lay some foil or put plenty of wax paper or use automotive tape ect and be careful... you really dont want to attempt to fiberglass the pod to the door. it wont work and will fuck up your panel

x2 dvd-audio for the win.... hopefully ill be 5.1 by the end of summer

^^^ no

that only works if the amps can be "strapped"

put it on for a second and see if it fixes the problem. You could put it permanently anyway thou if u really wanted chassis ground and wire harness ground are one in the same. The chassis isnt a magical ground it uses the wire harness to work

all you have to do is get a wire and touch it together for a second to test it http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php...age=1&pp=10

well we dont even know thats the issue quite yet... need you to test on ur end man only thing we can do is throw out ideas, but im 85% sure thats the issue and once you confirm that with 10 minutes of time and a 5cent piece of wire you can fix it permanently and be done with it. But if you would rather just go out and buy a new hu thats all good and gravy, hope i was right and it isnt something else other then the hu

pioneer is blown these guys keep on telling you. get a piece of wire and preferably at the HU touch the outer shield on one rca to a ground (the hu chassis works). you can also do this right at the amp if taking out the hu is too difficult but its much better to do at the HU

nice... lol makes mine look sorta ghetto