Team_DC-Derrick

tones will do more power, all day every day... why do you think DB drag cars use straight tones to burp LOL.. you dont burp on music, unless your org is required, tones will always be louder

you got it backwards, it will do more power on tones than music

I just enjoy loud music, i dont even compete

musical rise will fluctuate between different frequencys, your 43hz note might be at 2.8 ohms, where at 30hz note might be 16ohms... you shouldnt be worried about clamped power if you are going for music, you really need to worry about it when you are doing straight tones

I personally would keep the memphis and buy the MX LOL, if you have the funds.. http://www.audiosavings.com/products/12-Inch-Car-Subwoofer/NEW-RE-AUDIO-MX12D2-MX12-D2-MX-12-3000w-CAR-SUBWOOFER/MX12D2.aspx only because quadcoil mojos are kinda rare now... MXs arnt

I actually have that thing grounded 7 times, 1 per batt, and 3 at the very end of it, on the opposite side of the positive and when you run the power wire from the busbar to the amp, ground it on the opposite side of where your grounds are, and put the power on the opposite side of where the powers are.. if that helps

busbars and fuse block area

well a bus bar and a fuse block is different, fuse blocks have wire going to them, busbars are connected to the battery terminals... you still want a fuse block even with a busbar

well, i dont know if this helps, but lvl 5s are roughly 5.5 cubes ported recommended... coming straight from rusty... so i could see that being a decent box, and if your buddy is any good with 4th orders, i would atleast try it, worst that can happen is that you just get a bigger one, right?

i vote 6 15s 41 ~ sq inch more of cone area, and 2 more motors for more motor force.... cone area + motorforce = king for nasty hairtricks...

if the sub cant take the rms right out of the box, its garbage

did that 95,000w make it out to columbus ohio on the skid? LOL, you know what im talking about

and also remember, just because its not against the rules, does it still make it right?

this is about the SOTM, which is supposed to be fair, by promising some one a chance to win something, that is cheating, hes buying votes.... all im asking is, is it wrong or not.. I think it is

Loud Mofo offered to raffle the prize away to anyone who voted for him in SOTM. He did this on several forums, so half the people who have voted we will probably never see again... he offered HALF.... not the whole prize... if it was the WHOLE prize, it wouldnt be up right now LOL

poll is up as well guys, if you would like to vote, i promise i wont give you shit if you vote negatively LOL

to bribe your way to win SOTM? by saying you will give some stuff to people if they vote for you.... honest opinions

I only ran mine at .175 for a week, i wanted to see if i could kill it, because ive tried everything else... still up and running, the 7k2d is probably their best built amplifier, i know any higher and you have major issues with them..

what most of you guys are not saying, when you say these amps do the power at 1 ohm, is that, that its RISING to 1 ohm, generally starting at .35 - .5 and rising to 1 ohm and thats the power it produces.. these amps wont produce that starting at 1 ohm and rising to say 3 ohms...

you can find a used stetsom 7k2d for around 1000 or cheaper and before all the little tards run around saying they will blow up, or fry your voicecoils ive ran it for almost 2 years now, had 0 issues, clamped 6000w at 2 ohms at 10v, and this is the 1 ohm stable amp... ran it at .175 ohm load rising to .5 at 10v and got 6000w, which was alittle weird, but a 6x world record holder is the one who clamped it... so i wasnt going to argue.

but it would be cheaper to get the 45$ kit from ddmtuning for HIDs... i have bad voltage drop, even with all the batts i have, i just dont have enough supply vs demand... and i know a cap would be useless in my case, i switched to HIDs and problem went away...

i would replace stock as well, to a kinetik or XS batt... that would help out a ton vs the stock one anyways..

eric alexander, curt eigensee, greg higgins, cj henson, me... all over 155+.... you have tons of world record holders in columbus LOL john hone is in the dayton area i think... you really should look him up

lights dimming = voltage drop.... you cant charge at 14.4 and have voltage drop to 14.4.... you are probably dropping down to the mid 12s, where your battery floats at.... just get HIDs and you wont notice it anymore... ddm tuning has cheap ones.. adding a second battery in the back will help a TON more than a cap.... the really expensive 500+$ ones are really the only caps that would remotely help...

Or take the money that he would be wasting and put it to better use. If his voltage drop isnt that bad, then something as little as a D975 Or D925 would be better of then a cap, In my opinion. He has no use for another battery if he is staying at a constant 14.4v, and adding one would not fix the problem, which is caused by the charging system not being able to supply power at a rapid spike... Which the capacitator would be able to do... IMO... BUT, he wouldnt be at 14.4v constant..... so your whole theory is flawed... just get HIDs from DDM tuning... problem solved