CaptainzPlanetz

Neither have I. Also I just noticed that Sparkomatic=James LOL.

How could you have a gameroom without one of these Would of had to of put it in before on of the walls was up though....... Also if you have alot on your hands, I would have no objection of you giving me the Sleeper

LOL sorry it gets slow around 2-3 on here, so what do I do, I siff through old threads, and sometimes they come back from the dead

I had a question how many hits you got now LOL, this site has came a long since you where so excited about having 140 members LOL, I think within a month or less the site will hit the big 10K, got any ideas to celibrate.

I read on TermPro that a guy with 1 Shocker Apocolipse 12 did a 157.XX with about 10K in Street A. Also I read a post from Murilo somewhere that they had already been testing the Apocolipse at 30K+ and where having no problems, I will see if I can find the post.

Here is a Pic of the Shocker Apocolipse sub, You can go to there site, but it is in portuguese, so to go to it in english, go to google and type in "Shocker Audio Parts" and it should be the top link and google can translate it for you.

Well if you have the Dual 2 ohm subs, and you want to run an amp per pair, you will need an amp that will make its power at 2ohms or .5 ohms. What does your electrical look like, you could get like a sundown 1500d and run it at .5 ohms that is if your electrical is good. Some other companys that make there power at 2 ohms are Kicker, JBL GTO series, Alpine MRP, And there are the new Clarion DPX amps they make a little more than 1500rms at 2 ohms and are about 200 bucks a piece. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020DPX1155/Cl...551.html?tp=115

I agree LOL, and arent you special.......you are the first person I have seen that is in 18+ without 300 posts, that just caught my eye as I have never seen it before.

Do you have a specific budget per amp?

Soldering is usually better than using standard crimping methods, I use 80/20 rosin core solder, however If you can get access to a hydrolic crimper, that would make a connection equal to a good solder joint if not better, with the kind of pressure the hydrolic crimper puts out evenly around the terminal you get what you call a cold fusion connection. here is a pic of a terminal from Chargers build that shows a hydrolic connection hack sawed so you can see what it looks like. And here is the crimper he used

I am quite disturbed by that pic, I dont know much about air bags, so I will let someone with more knowledge about that answer.....

If you want batteries for comp's I would suggest Batcaps, most if not all are under 800 square inches, if you have some money and are really serious about competing you could get a BatCap Extreme, from which by going from specs, could provide a current draw of a little more than 40000 amps for a burp. http://www.batcap.net/Products/BatCapProdu...91/Default.aspx

I sure have, been checking his channel everyday to see em hooked up bangin, sadly no updates in like 4 days. Also my favorite flex vid, 2 18" Death Penalties off of about 7200 rms name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\"></param><param name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\"></param><embed src=\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\"></embed></object>"> name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\"></param><param name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\"></param><embed src=\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\"></embed></object>" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">

If you aint cutting you aint doing it right LOL. And to rab he might sell a PIC of the 4 18's...........

I could understand why, just go to the link of the HC3800, I posted above, under where it says USA shipping estimator, there is a link for "outside the US" click on that, then put in your postal code and it will give you an estimate, I put in a few random places in Toronto and all where about 105 shipping which ends up being like 450 less then you would pay at a shop.

Whats your postal code, I sure even though shipping will be more, it will still be cheaper than the thousand bucks you would be paying at the shop, I understand about support the dealers but damn near double factory price is pushing it alot.

I wouldnt pay retail for those batteries you could get a HC3800 shipped for a little under 500 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17672_...KHC+3800-.html#

A Lanzar Opti Drive sub would do good on that power, it is $239 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=14028 Or if you have another of those amps you could get this one for $349 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=21194

I like it to be less casing more wire, just like with women LOL, Sorry for the attempt at a joke.......

^^^^^^^^^^ This, after I realized how much of a pain in the ass it would be to get my box out, I decided to buy a set of Run Flat tires, now where my spair was I am gonna be putting a pair of batteries in there.

If you want kicker why not go with the CVT's same as the CVR's but optimized for shallow mounting. They are 99 a piece http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8584_K...T+07CVT122.html 4 and 5/16" mounting depth.

Just thought I would let everyone know, that there are 3 new vids up, on steves channel.

LOL more like your neighbors windshields.

Hey Thorshammer one thing I have wondered is how exactly you mount those LVL5 10's on the baffle, I know the easiest way would be to invert mount them, but how exactly did you mount them with the motor in the box?

Take that Bish off and upgrade to a Funky Pup Dust Cap http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index.php?ma...products_id=215 Only 5 Bucks for a Pair.