Neo_frog

Why not three 18s? That would be much cooler than 15s. EDIT: Reason I ask is because I'm selling 18" LVL5s. I'd cut you a deal if you bought both.

No, if he's asking that question, he shouldn't be giving them more than rated. That's why they are rated that way.

You need to do research. They are rated at 2000RMS so that's what you should give them.

I've always wondered the legality of it in the lanes.

Figures. I'm off for both, but I have nothing installed right now. I don't want to rush it anyways. We'll see what happens.

The tighter suspension is going to have better power handling anyways so why would you "go easy" on them? You will not tear the spiders beating on it with rated power. Hell, even double rated.

I just saw Bruno for the first time... FUCK THAT!

Some have their little rituals, but if a sub can't take abuse right out of the box, it shouldn't be played. You'll be fine beating on it. I gave my LVL5s 4k right out of the box, and they proceeded to get louder every fucking day. I'd say about two weeks of hard playing to get the suspension totally loosened up.

Wait until the window runs out, then file a dispute in PayPal. Then write a bad review on the website. That's all you can do.

So I need another of the old model Memphis 4KW for this build. I don't want any other amps. Hit me up.

This is true. But I'm sure Rusty will work out a deal with you. Just shoot him a pm with your offer.

x2 or it didn't happen.

I've seen two on the late 90s models...? Are they different mounts?

I was saying a 2-ohm load per amp. Since you're going that big I was assuming that you weren't an idiot. I was right.

Why would you run that sub on two amps seeing a 2-ohm load? They wouldn't even move. Study.

He said six amps on three subs. Read.

At least two 300+A alt and six to ten big batteries.

I got some Memphis MClass 8s. They are in my sig and my thread in the For Sale section.

There are a lot of equations involved. You'll need to have your T/S parameters ready and understand how to calculate your efficiency (S factor) and get your appropriate passband and rolloffs. I honestly don't know enough about it to explain. As far as "tuning a blowthrough" you would just make the threshold the acting port in your front chamber. You aren't going to need much to affect the frequency significantly.

Be more specific. Tons of amps can handle .5

Running a ground from front to back creates a consistent and guaranteed path with minimal impedance. The extra grounds to his chassis are a back up and an extra flow path. Nothing wrong with a little overkill.

Thanks for the info. I'm definitely building it for control without sacrificing response. And that's the thing, I know the port tuning can't be calculated like a normal box. I'm using it more as a reference since the tight angles of the baffle will supply me with dropped tuning. My plan was to build a choked port tuned low, then run sweeps, shave off 1/2" then run again and keep testing to see how the different "port tuning" affects my peak. I really wish I had more time to test different angles at set port lengths to derive some make-shift equations..

The Fusion amps aren't bad at all. Try running some digital silence and see if the subs move slowly. If they do, then it could be a gain issue. If it happens, try turning it down before playing anything again. Then check the voltage on your remote wire against the amp ground with it on. I've seen it do some funky shit when it shorts or has low voltage.

Could be a bottleneck issue... Have you done your big 3? And if yes, are you grounded to the chassis or did you run a negative?

I'm currently in the design phase of a ported clamshell with 12 10s in the Cruiser on 12kW. It's going to be a single stage baffle design with two rows of subs with a 19 degree incline/decline from the fascias (Similar to Frankie Rio's Fi Q setup). My question is about the subs unloading with doors open. I'm going to choke the port down and only have the 19 degree angle on the baffles to help with cone control, but I have no idea how the cones will react with no exterior loading. Do you have any experience with this or is it something I shouldn't worry about? I asked this a long time ago, but I want to see if there's any fresh minds on the matter. I want to tune to (peak based on my cabin) 36hZ, but I don't want to rip up my subs during demos or Bass Boxing. And if anybody has info on baffle angles' effect on tuning response that would be helpful too.