Neo_frog

Eight DC LVL4 10s on two Memphis 4Ks. The 10kW come from my five 4-channels.

A 400 amp alt is fine for 8kW, but you'll run into voltage issues at idle. What kind of batteries? Amp hours mean nothing. 3 runs of + and - are sufficient. And with said electrical, yes, you will have significant voltage drop at full tilt. 400A charging @ 2k RPM will hold its own for a while, however. Here's my 10k setup: 320A alt 5x HC2400s 2 runs +/2 runs - Big 3, buss bars, etc. I can run decently at idle, but I can't demo for hours. Worst I've seen is 12.9 under heavy abuse before I kill it.

I bet you fixed it. And I'd put money on it that only one of them was smelling badly. Another member came over to my house just the other day with the exact same problem.

If it's not centered, the surround will rub or the cut out will prevent the sub from moving causing heat to build up quickly. Did you smell both subs individually? If you have answers for this and insist you did it correctly, then listen to Korey.

Then another issue I'm wondering is if you are rubbing since you're inverted. Make damn sure that each sub is centered exactly. That is another thing that will stink up a sub quickly.

Here's what you need to do.. have pen and paper ready. Note the temp, volume, and song you're playing when it happens. Do it over and over. I'm willing to bet you find it's only specific songs that do it, but I can't b sure because there's just not enough info. Where you located? (No locations on mobile)

Not entirely true. It makes no difference to the sub what polarity it recieves, it won't hurt it. Sometimes it's better for SQ, but it's application dependent and a whole different topic altogether. He probably wouldn't notice much of a difference.

Good to see they have real classes now. I think it was last year they had <1000W class and >1000W class. I called and bitched out the owner lol. Were you guys there last year?

More port area raises tuning More port length lowers tuning More volume lowers tuning Apply the concepts accordingly and do whatever makes you happy. Sometimes we have to deal with what we have.

Interesting. 1/3 is .3333333333 9/2.7 is 3.33333333333 What does 9/2.7 have to do with this problem? hdorre said 1/3 was 3.333 whatever. Then someone followed agreeing. They were both wrong. Skippy was showing what 3.3333 was as an improper fraction.

I know it may sound crazy, but I f*cking love this girl and her covers. I was hoping somebody could..ahem.."fix" this song up with a nice bassline. Looking for < 35hZ, but I'm open for anything that flows. If you need help "finding" the song, shoot me a pm. =]

Well if you ever get fed up with it, you can bring it out and I'll help you figure it out. And yeah, the light drizzles seem to cause more problems than heavy rains as odd as that sounds. Dealt with it a few times..

So the firewall AND the (driver?) door are leaking? You have any pics of the source inside the car or what's wet?

I quoted a blanket price of $650. I need to see the car before I give an actual cost. I made some recommendations and said to provide everything as far as materials.

94retta, it's all good bro. We all have our prices and I'm not out to steal anybody's business. If you are the "better man" I'll gladly let you have it lol. I like helping people out so I figured I'd offer.

Sounds like a nifty install. I'll pm you my pricing and requirements.

Oh its on now... Hah jp Post up Some of your builds if you dont mind im interested. Bah, I'm at work so I can't see/post pics. =( You can look at my latest build log for my recent work. It's in my sig. The old ones are on my fb page with my PT Cruiser. http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=13746130

This is a good idea. I think I'll initiate a contest as well for my team. We have members already, but no stickers. So ya can't steal it.

Either way, if you're looking to pay for time and need something fairly large, I'm willing to take it on. Just let us know details so we can help you out.

What kind of install are you looking for?

The speed of displacement is based on cone area, acceleration (derivative of xmax, power, and roll off) and port area. But that's just for the box. Cabin activation is a whole new ball game. You won't know until you test for statistical data from several scenarios, then derive ideal setups for air movement specifically (response aside). Hopefully you have these resources and the time. I can tell you how to do it, but I'm not going to because it would take me all day. People generally rely on high power and lots of cone area for air movement. Port size can be designed with equations for tuning goals, "dialed in" for uncalculated boxes to maximize SPL, or sized according to response goals. But...to answer your very generalized question with a generalized answer, you will be better off meeting in the middle. You gave no information at all for anybody to answer this question sufficiently.

Ugh...I'm getting out of here. Too much bad info from everybody. OP, feel free to pm me.

Actually, the big batteries put more of a strain on the alternator than any capacitor would. People use banks to maintain consistent voltage under a load since majority of alternator setups cannot keep up with large systems. Each battery draws 2-10A for charging constantly. A capacitor cleans up unforeseen dips in power, assuming you have very little drop in the first place. With his setup, I'm saying use the thing. And if your capacitor is properly installed, it will never be at half capacity.

You should really look up how to test "drop" before trying this if you've never used a multimeter. Some people don't understand what voltage drop is.

Noob, I was here day one before anyone else, will soon be 5yrs I believe. Noob, I was...er...uh..