BJD3

Wal-Mart has universal gift cards. At least the one here does. Create PayPal account. Input gift card info as a credit card. Get in contact with RAM or Ray. Send money. You're spending $120 when you only need to spend like $50 between design and mats.

I'd wait for someone else to comment here, but my vote is you're clipping. You have ~6 volt signal leading into an amp that can only handle at most 4v. Like I said I could be wrong, so wait for someone with more knowledge to chime in here.

You'll quickly learn when it comes to car audio, nothing is "best". I have yet to see a person with knowledge of deadener say eD's deadener is any good.

I'd see if n8 chimes in here. Maybe PM him. I know he's been inside of a Cavalier. Don't remember if it was a 2 door or a 4 door though.

EDIT: I'm a tard. Edited suggestion: AQ2200D / DC 2K 4 D2 Level 3s at 1 ohm. Problem solved

If you're going to run 2k, why not get a sub rated at 1k a piece? Not everyone wants to run 2x+ RMS.

I just recently bought the original Samsung Galaxy Tab and I personally think it is way better then the Ipad. An Ipad is just a big Ipod touch and you are limited with web browsing (things like Flash) Whereas with the Tab I am not. Its all up to you, if your school has an Ipad app that may be a better decision for you. The Galaxy tab just simply has a little more flexibility, I bring mine into school and it works great for any kind of web browsing, etc during class. It being a big iPod Touch is a negative? Last I checked the iPod Touch wasn't exactly a flop. If this is actually for school, I'd say get a laptop. Tablets are nice and all, but IMO, they aren't at the point (yet) that they can be a main "computer".

IDK about a hiatus per se. I know they are getting ready to build the all new line, and they are moving old stock. When I think "hiatus" I think a company that is doing exactly nothing. Its more people were inquiring about their woofers and then making the decision to buy other speakers. Dude decided to remove himself from the forum scene. I'll see if i can't find the old thread, but the last one got locked.

It also has two common walls.

on the belle i pretty much just need to know what fuses it takes. mine has 4x 20amp fuses but the ones i see online have 4x 30amp fuses. and what is the level control? oh lastly is the Fultron model rarer than the Memphis model. for the memphis 16-st1000d i also need to know the fuse size and if it does rated power. i already own the belle but im looking at the Memphis 16-st1000d Is the level control not the gain? Is the range something like 5v to a couple hundred mv?

I had a problem with my order, and JD went above and beyond to make it good.

Meee! Hot as hell, but it was fun. Had a Magnum over there that was RIDICULOUS!

x2 How about you get loud before you make a new video? Is this what's in your sig/avatar?

Until you get more subwoofers than 5. In which case learning how to calculate impedence the "manual" way will come in handy. Not to mention if you're away from your computer and need to change your final impedance.

Mind if I ask why? EDIT: I haven't seen anywhere where the BC2000 doesn't do rated? Sorry just personal preference on equipment and yes the BC2000D does do rated, I just don't wanna wire it down to 0.25 ohms and have it rise to 1 ohm in order to get rated power.... This amplifier is going to eventually burp my Warden 12" and I need 2K clamped, for now I am going to baby it and let it power my two DC level 2 8's! So I take it you're looking for something that's under rated? Also, bdcp.

Mind if I ask why? EDIT: I haven't seen anywhere where the BC2000 doesn't do rated?

Have you considered paying someone like Ray or RAM to design you a box? Paying for a design is still cheaper than buying wood only to tear it all down to rebuild it. lol

I hate my Eclipse. Worst money I ever spent. It works fine. But using it is a headache.

and when you blow them, dont start a thread bitching about how they dont take power... but, AQ1200 would be perfect for them.. remember, just because they CAN take it in certain tests, doesnt mean YOU should put that much to them... way to many variables, and considering your asking about what amp you should get, you prob are still learning alot about car audio.. the people that have ran 900+ rms to them are really knowledgeable people and know tons of information. not trying to be a dick dude, but stay at the rms... This times a lot. If you're looking to run 1k per, buy a sub that's rated for 1k. Do you even have the necessary upgrades to support 2k?

If it meant people doing 55 in the left lane of the interstate would not be able to get a drivers license, I wouldnt mind it.I don't just have 3k laying around, but I would find a way to save it.

I dont think its true about blue, but i know for a fact its true about red. I learned that in my freshman psyc class. has to do with the cones and rods in your eyes. Ill see if I cant find the info in my book.

im not at a computer, kther wise i would try doing it myself, but have you looked into marine voltmeters?

Yes. For what it is you want to do. That is the method you would want. I doubt it would make that big a difference if one at all. I can't tell you with 100% certainty that it has absolutely positively no effect, but I doubt it would be a measurable one.

It cuts the output from the deck. Basically think of it not as turning bass up, but more turning it down. When its all the way up, its the same as if it weren't there.

Gain is there to match output voltage. Not to be set at a percentage. The gain on my amplfier is no where near halfway. My dad's gains not at halfway. Both were set with the DD1. I have 5v preouts. My dad has 4v. Do you know what voltage his are? Or the range the amplifier has? Without that information, you can't even begin to make an educated guess as to what percentage the gain should be set. Even then, you would still be guessing. Does the deck output a clean signal? Does the deck even output the voltage it advertises? Does it output more?