BJD3

Dude, you will be fine. Unless your clipping. Set your gain at halfway, i highly doubt it would induce clipping at half way. Or get someone with an oscope to set your gains. They could take double power but in your case i will not recommend it, so set your gains on the amp conservatively. Why not roll with everything AQ? This is bad advice. It is stupid to suggest "set your gains around half way," ESPECIALLY since nobody knows the headunit you have. Invest in a DD1. You can spend the $200 now, or in a couple months when you start killing equipment. And that's regardless of whether or not you get the AQ or the Kenwood.

My experience: When I was setting my gain with the DD1, the clipping light was solid red while the DD1 said there was no distortion. I'm thinking the light comes on AT the clipping point instead of when there is actual clipping. Granted, this is the M1a and not the AQ2200, but being that the knobs are interchangeable, I would think they are similar enough to draw similar conclusions. That said, I would still get my hands on a DD1 or a good oscope.

I'd reverse that statement, but the idea remains the same. Infuse > Inspire > iPhone 5 > Atrix. My opinion.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/14666-calculating-gain-voltage/page__hl__setting+gain http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/4382-setting-amplifier-gain-control/ Now read this: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/4382-setting-amplifier-gain-control/page__view__findpost__p__498392 And considering with a DD1 you can find 1% distortion and not just clipping, it is (IMO anyway) the better tool.

Me. Cool part is...I thought it was this past weekend. Made the trip out there only to find a completely empty parking lot. :facepalm:

I would have handled my issue myself...had HP not made the computer so damn hard to get into. Literally a week outside of warranty and they don't cover an obvious hardware defect? OK. How much is it to fix? Over $300. I'm not going to drop $300 into a $700 computer. I was planning on buying an Envy. I got the G53 and never looked back. I wish. I have my s out though.

Dual 2. You will wire down for a 1 ohm final load. But you want the dual 2 coil configuration. Edit:at a bare minimum you will want 4 gauge. If you can swing a high quality 1/0 (knu, stinger, kicker, etc) do it.

Doesn't matter. If you don't know the signal amplifier is actually outputting, the DMM will tell you the amplifier is outputting more power. And it is. But the signal is could be distorted/clipped. DD1 >= Oscope > DMM > ear > crank and bang.

I think you'd be happy with either one. While I don't have personal experience with either*, both are from well respected companies and both get rave reviews. *If information I've been reading is correct, the M1a and the AQ1200d are very much alike. And I've abused the crap out of mine.

You've closed the thread but I'm going to reopen it. lol There is a school of thought that says putting a line driver behind a low power deck will rectify all the problems a low power head unit creates. I would think that being that the line driver would still have to have that high noise floor then would boost that, you would still have all the noise you were trying to fight. If anything, running it through another device would give noise another chance to rear its ugly head. Correct? Also, I've confused myself. I know what I want to say, but don't know the correct terminology. Would the noise floor be lowered or raised?

From what I'm given to understand, all a higher preout voltage will do for you is lower the noise floor since the amplifier doesn't have to be as sensitive. Higher voltage head units give a stronger signal out. As far as losing power, no. That's why you have a gain knob. So you can set the amplifier to match the deck. EDIT:That said, preout voltage isn't the only metric you should judge a deck by. That would be like saying "I'll buy this subwoofer because the magnet is bigger."

Yes i have my gains at halfway but i was wondering if i turned up the SW Lv on the Hu will it make it clip at a sooner point? same with treble bass and mid Lv? i am trying to get a DD-1 Beleave me lol but im still trying to get a DMM and lots of other things new Batt stuff like that.... Yes. You have the headunit outputting more at the RCAs. Eventually they will clip. If they don't, when you pass on the signal to the amplifier, unless the gain was low to begin with, it will clip. Basically the SW level etc. are gain knobs themselves. The only exception to this rule I'm aware of is Alpine units. Their SW level is wonky in that at 15 you are at 0db. So set your gain with the headunit at the max you will ever go. Make sure that doesn't clip. Then go to the amplifier with the deck at that maximum output level and set the gain there. A little searching goes a long way. And as for the DMM...are you sure you're really getting rated power? If not since you have no way of seeing the waveform, its entirely possible you will still get 1000 watts to exit the amplifier. However, its also possible its dirty power.

This. HP has been alluding to this for several years now. I didn't think they would take it quite this far, but I knew their PC business was hitting the back burner eventually. Not only that, but service is shit as well. Never again will I buy an HP computer.

EDIT: I guess it would help if I gave the link, huh? After shipping it will be a little more. But in my (very) limited experience, this is the best wire I've used. Its a little outside of your budget, but maybe you can make the stretch? Sonic electronix also has Kicker Hyperflex. Its a lot more flexible (though how useful that extra flexability is is debatable), and a little less wire. AudioSavings has Cadence wire. I haven't used it, but a few people on here have and seem to like it.

This. I literally just tuned my dad's truck. It took me more time to break everything down than it took to actually set the gains/find the deck's clipping point. If money is the issue, I'd suggest turning the gain way down until you can afford a DD1.

Get one. DD1 is cheaper than amp/subs.

Would you suggest to get a Sundown amp or the Audioque AQ1200? Honestly, its a toss up. Pick the one that's cheaper/looks best/matches your sub. They will both perform. Personally, I'd get the Sundown because I think they are secksy. If I really would have had a problem with my M1a, I would have bought one of the refurb SAZ-1500Ds off dBr. Yes, I do make decisions based upon looks.

so that should stay at zero correct? subsonic should be set a little lower then box tuning? or a little higher? LPF is something id have to play around with right? im not a noob here but amp settings are not something i fully understand lol going out to mess with this real quick ill be back also checked neo-frogs thread, theres nothing about phase that i see Is it detecting a signal and the 40 hz tone?

Just a question. How common do people have an issue reinstalling the interior after installing MLV because of the added thickness.

Because a car is a terrible, terrible listening environment. Road/wind noise, off axis speakers, various acoustical barriers and reflectors... You want to get as stable a platform as you can. You begin this by ensuring the car itself doesn't interfere with the sounds you're trying to reproduce. You can't eliminate all negative factors, but by eliminating what you can, you make the best of a bad situation.

From what I'm given to understand, its a toss up. Birch is ligher, has less sawdust, and (IMO) looks better. MDF is cheap. And works perfectly fine. Don't know how they compare when you work with them except for the fact that MDF has a tendency to split if you don't predrill. If I had to speculate, I'd think birch was a little healthier since you don't inhale crap tons of glues. But I have no fact to back that up. And I doubt you'd want to snort either one.

Dude, WTF happened to my post? Link. In my sig. Anti-Peel and Seal. Click it.

the thread should have ended after this post. I'm glad I'm not the only one that though that. lol

edit...

Personally, I'm not convinced. The peak is still flat, its just quieter than it was before. That said, all the audible information that used to be in that peak is now gone. (Which is why I HATE the loudness wars. I have a volume knob TYVM) I'm going to sit here and see what Decaf has to say. Actually, I won't be sitting here. But my point remains the same. lol