HHR Ed

yay! nice HHR clam

Depends on the length. Ports only bend when the total length is too much to fit inside the box without bending.

On another note, if you plan on just having a musical, pounder of a woofer. There are about 10 other options that will perform better than the 99Z at a fraction of the cost. If you plan on building an extreme car to chase 180 dB, I'd say go for the Z

well, there is a 9515, a 95 Z 15, and then the 99 Z. The Z series is a NEO motor series. So if you wanna turn your 9500 series into a Z series, you have to buy a Z series woofer. a 99Z coil will not fit your motor, and even if it did, it wouldnt change much. And they are not $600. DD may charge $100 for a coil, but they are worth more like $50

I'm from Philly, Those prices dont seem unreasonable depending on the design and finish of the box you want.

When we lived in europe, we had summer house about 1.5 hours away from city. House was right next to forest, in the forest we found one spot where tree's were HUGE while rest of the tree's in the forest were norma sizel. What was funny and interesting about it is that it had this like blue glow to it, kind of hard to explain. There are many thing that can be explained, but some are like Or the fractal phenomena. In forests, it has been found that there will be a group of larger, older trees only every so often, and smaller, younger trees surround it. This is because of it's offspring. Then the offspring grow up and have a group of smaller offspring around them. Some trees die off so in a few hundred years you end up with only a few old trees with younger trees around it, and they have even younger trees around them, then further away you have more old trees with the same patter re-emerging. The blue glow could have been a fungus or algae that only attaches to older trees that have a certain chemical in some of the older layers that is not present in younger trees. Not sure, I'd have to examine the sight for more possible answers.

Yes but since im not really powering my sub to its fullest im not getting all it can do, my thoughts are if i down grade a sub and be able to push it more would i end up with sououd improvements You dont have to power it to its fullest. It will have other benefits over lesser subs than just greater power handling. It may have a flatter frequency response and sound better and may also be more efficient. So I'd stay with that sub and just tune your amp to be as clean as possible. The greater power handling means that you can upgrade the amp in the future just to get it a bit louder. But you dont have to if it sounds the way you want. Yeah but im not even powering it to its reccomended rms rating but if i do the big three on a 90 amp alternator i shouldnt have dimming lights at 1000 watts rms? It's recommended RMS? There is no minimum RMS you can power a sub with, regardless of what some manufacturers say. And you shouldnt really have a dimming issue Id say. At least not bad enough to matter

Yes but since im not really powering my sub to its fullest im not getting all it can do, my thoughts are if i down grade a sub and be able to push it more would i end up with sououd improvements You dont have to power it to its fullest. It will have other benefits over lesser subs than just greater power handling. It may have a flatter frequency response and sound better and may also be more efficient. So I'd stay with that sub and just tune your amp to be as clean as possible. The greater power handling means that you can upgrade the amp in the future just to get it a bit louder. But you dont have to if it sounds the way you want.

well, power draw is mainly due to the amplifier, not the sub. Any sub will act similarly. But, with 600w, or even 1000w, you will be fine with your alt. The alt will make power at 14.4v x 90A. But also the battery is taken into consideration. How much power can the alt/batt combo supply? Most commonly, its about 2000-2500w for a factory setup. But time is also a factor so how much power over a given amount of time.

Everything can be explained. Things become paranormal when you dont understand them. Solution is to learn and understand everything.

What kind of car? Seems interesting. I'd like to see. Got pics and vids?

uuuhhh,, There are dozens of no-wallers in the 160s. Loudest No-Wall is around 166 dB I had a list on here of loudest Non-Walled "Ground Pounders" Which the loudest were 158s and 157s.

I really really like this............ um, what? Oh yeah, wire, I like wire

yes it was a TSNS I wish I knew a sexy lady that would be willing. Most are too scared lol

preview of my next episode of Bass FlashBack 3. Lemme know what you guys think, I could use more views with all the effort I put into my vids. Yes, this did kind of hurt.

preview of my next episode of Bass FlashBack 3. Lemme know what you guys think, I could use more views with all the effort I put into my vids.

Ive went to competitions in Canada a bunch of times, never had a problem crossing the border, even with a walled enclosure. Maybe Mexico is different.

Worked hard editing these to make them look more professional. Also gave away a custom 15" Woofer in vid 2

Actually, 200A alts do not make full power at 8000rpm. It depends on the alt and each has its own rating through the rpm band. Some alts make full power at 2000 rpm. Best way to figure what you need electrical wise is this. First figure what wattage you want to run, how many of what size amplifiers. Lets use a 10,000w amp as an example. OK, so first I wanna choose the batteries to power that 10,000w amp. I want a bit of overhead and have to figure voltage drop as well. Most amps will shut off at 10v so if we use that as a reference, it'll give us overhead automatically. Also, most amps are 65-90% efficient, so we need to figure on making more that 10,000w. Lets choose batteries that can deliver about 15,000w at 10v. So our batteries must be capable of supplying 1500A of current. About 3 XS Power D3100s can handle that. Why not 4 for a bit of reserve, shall we? Because we have the 4channel amps and the engine too. So no we have 4) XS D3100s to charge while playing. They have a total aH rating of 440. So with a draw of 1500A, the batteries alone will die in about 20 minutes or so, playing full tilt. if we use a 200A alternator, we can extend that to about 25 minutes. A 300A would extend it to about half an hour. So now figure your playing habits. Are you playing tones at 100% power for 30 minutes straight? Probably not. How bout playing music at 75% power on average for 30 minutes? Sure. Well transients dont pull full power at all times, so with this, the 30 minute playing time can be extended for hours. And everytime you pause or mute, or there is a break in songs, the alts will be charging the batts. With about 75A of charging to each battery. That is pretty good. Going larger will increase performance. But that'll do well in a situation like this. The smaller the alt, the longer it will take to charge up the batts and let playing time you will have. Going larger will increase playing time and speed up recharge. 75A of charge can recharge a fully depleted D3100 in just a couple hours. When playing with music and once in a while go to 100% power for a few minutes, you may only deplete the batteries a few percent. So recharge to full will only be a few minutes. Basically what Im saying is to get the largest Alt you can afford.

Yep, and that can be with anything. You may want to drag race, or spend money on fancy hats because they make you feel happy, or gambling. It just so happens that fewer people understand car audio so more people will disagree with spending money on it.

in 2002 I took out a loan to build my system. I'm still in debt and cant afford to put anything in my car right now. Let that be a lesson or just a cool story bro, haha

any video converter