HHR Ed

That's what I'm saying. Well done indeed

lol, we were sitting there a long time. I wanted bacon or sausage after a few minutes

yes it does act like a flared port. But, on 3/4" it is so small as compared to the size of low frequency waves that it will barely effect any measurement.

2.4v per cell is safe charging. That's 14.4 For lengthy time periods. You can go higher for short bursts

It is a company that a ton of the mustang guys use. Here is the output chart of their amps at given RPMS. http://www.paperform...ra.asp?extra=11 Our cars, especially heavily modified ones, don't idle as nice as a lot of these newer things. Mine bounces between 800-900 at idle, so at the time, it was one of the best I knew about for a nice price. HHR Ed, thank you for the information. Would you recommend tying those batteries together for the entire car, or installing a battery isolator for the rear mounted one? Just trying to determine everything I need for budget purposes before a purchase. Use them together. They are both of the same chemistry (AGM) so no need to isolate them.

Im not so much as excited as I am eager to finally relax with some nice cars and Bass.

With your power you can get away with a D3400 or S3400 Oh look, I found one here. http://showtimecaraudio.net/bci_group/58/ But you would benefit a great deal by adding a 2nd batt in the back, a XP950 would do great as a 2nd batt in combo to a 3400 http://showtimecaraudio.net/shop/supplemental/xp950/

The harness doesnt do anything by itself. It is meant to adapt the VCM to your alt. Without the VCM, there is nothing to adapt to.

I believe that is the harness for the VCM. That harness says out of stock and so are the VCMs at the moment. They will be returning soon though.

There most be a reason why the transistors are blown. Do you have capabilities of trouble shooting and tracing damaged components? And depending on what section of the amp the FETs are in, there can also be damaged CAPs or Resistors

Actually Nathan said running XS with other brands is not preferred but is possible. You DO NOT want to run XS or any AGM batteries with a battery of a different type or chemistry. Example, a wet cell die hard will not mix with a XS agm type. It is not ideal but Optima and XS batts can be compatible.

And just as a general tip. here are several ways to keep your voltage maintained as high as possible. 1. Upgrade size of wire on strength of connections from Alternator to Battery and Frame ground. As well as from the battery to the Audio components. This is sometimes called the "Big 3" 2. Reduce the length of all power wire and grounds to the amplifiers, sometimes people leave extra wire tucked under carpets because they think they may need it someday. This reduces the current capacity of the wire. Cut it to length. 3. Properly tune your amplifiers. Gains turned up too much not only add distortion, but they cause the amps to draw more current and run less efficient. 4. Keep your batteries charged. Batteries can be depleted over time. For the last 10 minutes of a car ride, it may be wise to turn down/off your stereo to let the alternator top off the batteries. Or plug in a charger in your driveway/garage.

What amps are you running?

I'm actually uploading a video on youtube that will explain this. XS Power gives a good wattage rating on their batts. You can use that as a guide and figure the alternator size required by the batteries you need to charge. Though you may be limited on alt size. General idea is that the MAX amps of a batt can translate to it's wattage capabilities. At least in a short time frame. It will be important to have a proper alt to keep that battery charged as the amplifiers are draining them. Example, a XS Power D3100 has a max amperage rating of 5000A. This is a short burst rating. XS Power rates it at 5000w capability. Notice this is NOT amperage times voltage. This is based off of a longer period of load time. If you take into account amplifier efficiency and other losses in the system. You can get a realistic 4200w with that battery while playing music for a long period of time with amplifiers that are 85% efficient. Now, you will need an alternator of at least 120a to feed that battery to a charge ratio of 1:1. This is approx how many minutes of charge it will take to top off the battery after that many minutes of full power play. So play at full tilt for 1 minute and it will need 1 minute to top off. Of course with 4200w you can play for several minutes. These numbers in the example are just figures based on my own calculations and would be a bit lower if you are also using that battery to run the engine.

Does that mean that elevation can alter output? It can and does to an extent. That has long be an issue with SPL competition, but the new TL is not effected by elevation, just your system.

Sound waves have a length to them. There is a certain distance between the peaks of the wave, or the compression nodes if you prefer. This length can be found by dividing the speed of sound by the frequency. For example The speed of sound through air at sea level is approx. 1130 feet per second. Divided by 20hz equals 56ft for the length of a 20hz wave. Most cars bass is between 30hz and 60hz. So this means waves between 37ft and 18ft. All of which are too long to entirely fit inside a standard passenger car. So we use the half and quarter wave method. If your interior is between 9 and 4.5 feet long, then you have the potential to play these frequencies very effectively. Now, in fluid dynamics and the physics of air pressure, we know that it is much easier to compress and vacuum smaller amounts of air as compared to larger amounts of air. Therefore, it will be easier to create high SPL with smaller amounts of air mass. So smaller cars have the greater POTENTIAL to get louder, as long as you know how to build for it. And we run into the frequency conundrum, so if you want a small car to still play low frequencies effectively, there is a limit as to how small you should go.

Patience young padawan This is posted from Sundown It's a bit of a mad house around the shop this week... it will take us all week to get all of the 2500/3500/NS-1 orders shipped out. We are also trying to keep up on regular orders as well as possible.

Forums have attitude and character. You have to accept that or just email someone directly to get straight answers. For 1 off parts at low quantity, check out fixmyspeaker.com Otherwise you can search around and gather a hodge podge of parts for classifieds sections.

with your amp it is not necessary to upgrade your alt but it wouldnt hurt. It is more crucial to upgrade your battery. When designing and building up your system the first thing you should do is upgrade the battery. Then depending on how much power you want to run you can add batteries and if you do, then it becomes imperative to upgrade your alternator in order to charge more effectively. During all of this, it will be a given that your wiring must be upgraded. And capacitors are not needed and may in fact hurt your system performance.

In most US states the legal age of consent is 16. So thats when someone can have relations as an adult with anyone of any age older than them. UNLESS they are a teach or coach or something in a position of power over them. I think teachers are just tired of not having the same freedoms as regular americans and they are rebelling.

ok. Just curious. They do move a "fair" bit but nothing close to some I have seen online. That guy with 11k on 4 of them in that crown vic had crazy excursion EDIT: they are dual 2's I was told to wire them like this : I dont have a cc-1 only dd-1 so running each seperate would be tricky Wire a pos from one coil to a negative of the other coil. Do that for both subs. Wire the two remaining positives to the positive of the master amp. Wire the two remaining negatives to the positive of the slave amp. Connect the two ground terminals of the master amp to the two ground terminals of the slave amp. You were told wrong. Well not totally wrong, but not optimal. Amps can run more efficiently and more reliably as individuals. And you do not need a CC-1. or dd-1 And when strapping amps, perfectly even gain settings are much more crucial. Best wiring scheme for that setup is to have each woofer on its own amp. Coils of each woofer wired in parallel. You can easily gain match those amps with a few techniques. 1. If they have a slave/master use that and you are done 2. use a voltage meter and measure the AC voltage on each speaker wire output. You can do this without the woofers connected and just make each amp read the same voltage. 3. Look at the woofers playing as you adjust gain. Play a solid tone and just adjust the gains until each woofer is moving an equal amount. People have been gain matching for 30 years before CC-1 or dd-1 so I think you will be fine. ok, If i do them each in paralell can I use all 4 speaker outs? i hate having to jam 2 8 ga wires into one woofer terminal, it sucks. Also what do you mean by matching the gains while strapped? Theres so much to understand, I'm just trying to wrap my head around it. Thanks for the help too. Yes you can use all speaker output terminals. Just connect each coil individually. I meant that when you strap amps, the gain settings of each amp must be exactly equal, which is much more crucial than if they are not strapped. This was in reference to your concern about not being able to gain match the amps if they are separate. If they are matched when strapped, they will be matched when not strapped. And if you have master/slave then you can use that whether strapped or not and they will match themselves. Wow I never knew that about master/slave. So if I run them speratley, do I still use that single RCA for jumping? along with the other RCA inputs. Right now while strapped, the gain on master is set correctly and the gain on slave is at 0 along with all the other settings. Do you know If I can still use the bass knob if they are seperate? Yes the RCAs and bass knob will all be the same. That all operates on the input side which can be thought of as independent from the output side. So your wiring on either side shouldnt affect the other. To some extent at least.

ok. Just curious. They do move a "fair" bit but nothing close to some I have seen online. That guy with 11k on 4 of them in that crown vic had crazy excursion EDIT: they are dual 2's I was told to wire them like this : I dont have a cc-1 only dd-1 so running each seperate would be tricky Wire a pos from one coil to a negative of the other coil. Do that for both subs. Wire the two remaining positives to the positive of the master amp. Wire the two remaining negatives to the positive of the slave amp. Connect the two ground terminals of the master amp to the two ground terminals of the slave amp. You were told wrong. Well not totally wrong, but not optimal. Amps can run more efficiently and more reliably as individuals. And you do not need a CC-1. or dd-1 And when strapping amps, perfectly even gain settings are much more crucial. Best wiring scheme for that setup is to have each woofer on its own amp. Coils of each woofer wired in parallel. You can easily gain match those amps with a few techniques. 1. If they have a slave/master use that and you are done 2. use a voltage meter and measure the AC voltage on each speaker wire output. You can do this without the woofers connected and just make each amp read the same voltage. 3. Look at the woofers playing as you adjust gain. Play a solid tone and just adjust the gains until each woofer is moving an equal amount. People have been gain matching for 30 years before CC-1 or dd-1 so I think you will be fine. ok, If i do them each in paralell can I use all 4 speaker outs? i hate having to jam 2 8 ga wires into one woofer terminal, it sucks. Also what do you mean by matching the gains while strapped? Theres so much to understand, I'm just trying to wrap my head around it. Thanks for the help too. Yes you can use all speaker output terminals. Just connect each coil individually. I meant that when you strap amps, the gain settings of each amp must be exactly equal, which is much more crucial than if they are not strapped. This was in reference to your concern about not being able to gain match the amps if they are separate. If they are matched when strapped, they will be matched when not strapped. And if you have master/slave then you can use that whether strapped or not and they will match themselves.

Question. Do your amps get hot enough to shut off, or are you just feeling them and they feel warm to you? Those RF amps to indeed run warm. Most amps can have a heatsink temp of 120-140F in some cases but the circuitry temp is still within operating spec. Either way, running fans in a hot trunk will help. Air circulation goes a long way.