n8ball2013

sure you can. I have 8 34s a wall and five huge amps and can still sit two comfortably. AND still have full use of the bed.

I do this is the best method unless you wanna fiberglass the seams but thats a pain in the neck.... some of us do both. if your box is going to come apart its going to be at a seam.

if you are trying to seal your seams. take wood glue take sawdust. make saw dust paste. apply to cracks. done.

what frequency looks like is a site that seems to view your cookies and then gives you videos of what youve been looking at recently. like related content. I bet if you go there you'll see your videos that thye have recommended will be about things that youve looked at recently.

you know maybe ill put my abilities to us and just start turning people into the RIAA.

Im going to start banning people who cant read.

I dont know how any of you browse on mobile wtihout using the new content feature. Id go nuts. BUT if you do click the dot/star/asterisk next to the thread title and it will take you to the last post you havent read. This is like the thousandth time thats been said.

dont be set on 18s. Alot of people do that. Everyone wants to go "big" and for the wow factor but think of it this way. If you ran a pair of 12s or 15s off 2 2ks and could do a 150 would it be more impressive than a single 18 doing a 146? The trick is to maximize your space. If you only have room for 12s or 10s you need to get the biggest baddest 12s or 10s you can. You following me? 18s are cool and all but sometimes its not always optimal

didnt like that much power huh

its just easier to get a base with the mdf. you can build completely out of glass if oyu want. build it strong.

you know what impedence and box rise is but didnt know the difference between nominal and reactive loads.

CJ relax this guy has it all figured out.

cuz why spend more money if you can just wire down! i already have the 2k and wouldnt mind upgrading to a different sub. because you're going to blow it up. well i have been told otherwize like i said, they are .5 ohm stable. im going to wire the sub to .5 ohms. Listen to who you want, I am telling you that the amp is NOT .5 ohm stable and running it at .5 ohm will VOID your warranty. If you have to ask the question, then I highly recommend that you DO NOT do it. If you doubt what I am saying, I am a DC Rep and know these products very well. I have the experience and knowledge to do what you are wanting to do, but that does not mean that I can recommend that anyone else do the same. When I wire my amps lower than recommended, I am doing so at my own risk. yes i know it will void the warrenty. i know what i am doing when it comes to installing and settin amps. and will run it at my own risk. go to the dc page on facebook iv had plenty of people say it is .5 stable along with multiple people on another audio forum that i am on all the time. i have the experience and knowledge to do what i am wanting to do, i have the electrical to back it up. the only question i asked is what kind of power it would put out at .5, not if i could. So since you're so certain whats your order number so when you try to get it repaired you can get it sent back burnt up. Since you're so confident. lets see some pics of your work and pics of your electrical to support 450-500 amps of current draw. Ive found that people that say shit like this are nothing more than a hack.

no ray thats a mini pony. Its hte only one you can get on and off by yourself.

ok well heres some more schematics. If you are going to ask opinions of the best it will become a comparison thread. comparison = vs vs = against the rules your thread = closed

well that would be enough battery for its four ohm rating.

Call it what you want. What is the thread title? Does it not include the word BEST in the title? I swear some of you lack the most basic comprehension.

there is no best.

itd be a waste of an amp even if you were to run a nightshade on it. Why buy all that power and not use it.

no matter how you word it its still a vs thread.

Im willing to bet you got below tuning and ripped some tinsels up.

yeah i flipped on sportscenter right after I posted. I say good for him. The nba can use a good story after that bullshit lockout strike stuff.

have you been found at fault at all? If notI'd use your insurnace company. They will of course go after ups insurance company then. I just went through something similar and was not at fault. I used my company because I was familiar with them and they were alot faster at getting my car back on the road than anyone else would have been. My company then presented the bill to the other company. My rates wont go up for this either because I was not at fault and it does not count as a claim. Didnt have to pay deductibles or anything.

Is your insurance company involved? If not get them involved. Let them go to war. I have USAA so they are more than willing to do the dirty work for me.

They have not cut you a check. The car is still yours. I'd flat out tell them you are going to get a lawyer and see what they say. Before they total the car you are supposed to also be able to get any personal items out of the car that you could not take iwth you.