n8ball2013

willing to bet hes going to fort gordon or benning for some training.

yup tell him to send you a picture of the gear everything he has he wants put in so you can get a feel for what he has and what he may possibly need. lol then whip his ass with a piece of 1/0 if it is yours.

it wont be dbdrag style I went a few years back and when i was stationed in nc. oh my god its nuts. absolutely nuts. Ill have to find my pics disk hell i didnt take any of the cars there. Highly recommended for the titty affair.

whats up with the back window where the slider used to be. I dont know if im just out of the loop or what but it looks like a port hole to me. Needs a drop but not sure if he can with the 6s ive always liked the cascading down look

not its not they all want it in word. To the op use the save as feature and save it as a 97-2003 word document. that changes the file extension to .doc and is able to be opened with older versions of office

A million dollars for a rear end accident what the fuck dude. glad that you made it through that without too much bs

no burnouts no balls.

I think you overpaid for your wildbeasts bro http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc...p;idproduct=488 FYI that site always has good cheap cadence shit.

crying no jr its not its just making sure everyone is aware that you are a fucking idiot.

yeah I know this will get locked i just wanted the proof to be out there that the guy had no clue. Alot of misinformation gets thrown out there and it sucks to think that someone who is just getting into our hobby could be steered wrong by someone that they think knows what the hell they are talking about. its bad mojo on all of us. And you know the most popular kind of amp "modding" is very simple. usually removing the protection circuit or something very similar. not replacing power supplies or caps or fets etc etc etc.

Ok guys i know you remember the topic about the hk4000d turnon current draw. Well I knew that someone was full of shit so I took it upon myself to email tech support and see what they had to say about it. here is the reply: The turn on lead will use less than 1 amp! The amp draw for the amplifier is up to 240 - 260 amps so we recommend using a 300 amp inline fuse at the battery. -----Original Message----- From: [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 8:21 PM To: Eyad Aboabdo; Dan Tech Support Subject: Ask a Question SourceURL = http://www.maaudio.com/category.jhtm?cid=8 first name = last name = email = Zip = 12550 Country = united states Product = MA audio hk4000d Question = Just wondering about the current draw from this amplifier. specifically the current needed to turn it on by way of the remote lead. I had heard from a source it required 40 amps of current to just turn on. This seems extremely high to me and did not seem right. thank you for your time Man doesnt that sound better. I guess if you had forty of them it might take 40 amps.

I love them my first experience with them was with alan thompson and his sierra when he had it. he was showing me the box and he reached back and just punched the cones like three or four times. And they barely moved. Then he turned it on and I was sold. They are extremely loud. through a very wide spectrum. you will hear people say they dont play low but they do and with authority. I went from two XXX 15s to two 9515s and the DDs were louder by almost two dbs on drop in. They are absolutely brutal and are great daily driving subs. They do not sound like shit. They wont win an SQ comp but they will do just fine for music.

definately go with more ram if you can. vista is such a memory whore its not even funny.

the fuse is in place to protect the wire. if that wire gets shorted out you have a chance of burning your car down very quickly. the fuse will blow if shorted out and will not allow current through it. if it is not fused and that would happen god forbid good luck getting insurance to cover it. so is a 40 dollar fuse holder and fuse(at most ) really worth burning your car down.

alot of them were used in street cars when they first came out. so one batt car off and stupid amounts of current draw. Ive known people who ran them down to .175 each.

no buts its a real good idea to have.

alot of them that went in for repair at .5 would be due to undervoltage. .the current draw at that load is absolutely rediculous.

it is an orion 2500d in new clothes.

i would do a 300 amp and the battery bank to go with it.

l7+2500=poof

you wont be disappointed to be perfectly honest. just because everyone pushes this or that doesnt make them any better. Ive ran my orions down to .5 ohm and some have ran them down to .175. they are tanks and put out gobs of power. if you can keep your voltage up you will see about 3500 watts out of it at .5 ohm. the key is keeping the voltage up. They have great protection circuits too so if they do low voltage they will protect them selves. I have four of them so i know quite a bit abotu them

these things pull over 400 amps of current at .5 just so you know. I had a 260 amp iraggi and two yellow tops and big three done and got major dimming still. They do serious power but you are going to need a ton of juice for it.

you have a mustang right? wall it off.

if its on the outside of the panel it has to be done to improve appearance I believe. inside of the panel i dont know about. i think if it was done too heavy then it would be questioned as well there was a post on termpro about this last year.

2 amps should be fine any more than that and iu would put the relay in.