kickass audio

PM me, i will take one of the smart start units off your hand since it works on droid and all that. Ive wanted one for quite some time now. Thank you everyone for answering my questions, sorry for the post dumping (even though im buying it) edit: i am at work and class so i cant pay you until i get home tonight after 11 est so please hold it and PM me your paypal address and ill pay you for it.

Cool, so basically the smart connect gets connected to its own network similar to a cell phone right? Also how hard are these to install? Does it come with the guide to tell you what wire goes into where for the 5901's brain? Sorry for the stupid questions i just wanted to see if this will work as the college im going to in the spring is huge and i wanted to keep tabs on my truck when its there since my stock remote doesnt work well in concrete buildings like my cell phone does.

will the smart start work on an android phone? Also will these work everywhere regardless of how far i am from the truck as long as my phone has signal? I still cant get that question answered about it. Please let me know!!

Also just to add on what i said before it still worked perfectly fine but with my car having 8 and 4 ohm speakers it would play the 4 ohm speakers louder (path of least resistance) than the 8 ohm ones. so for a few days until it stopped raining and i could rip the doors off and replace those speakers i just set my fader toward the front some to even out the volume a little bit. Other than that i never had any problems with it one bit and it sounded so much better than the stock ones.

It would be fine as long as you do all of the stock speakers. For my old car i had i didnt put all the speakers in at once so i did my trunk's 6x9's with the kicker ks6930's and they were louder than the front door speakers which were 8 ohms and stock. Once i replaced the front speakers it was all even and didnt have a problem with my radio. And i tried it on the stock and aftermarket radios i had and it didnt have any issues, never got hot, blew a fuse or anything like that. If you are really concerned about it maybe think about wiring the left and right sides in series to get 8 ohms. You would lose the stock fade but that would get it back up to the 8 ohms per side and it wouldnt harm the radio at all.

yea ill pass on putting my name, address, and all that crap on a forum topic so that everyone on here can see it. So someone can't say "It's on it's way to Purplehaze in Ohio" as an example? I didn't mean a detailed address, just a forum name and state would be enough I thought you meant the full address with the street and all that. Im fine putting my city and state as well as my username for here (although you can clearly see it when i post lol) and if needed my first name and last initial. I was thinking like full name, full address, and all that stuff to post to the whole smd community.

yea ill pass on putting my name, address, and all that crap on a forum topic so that everyone on here can see it.

I would love to be a part of this although my system isnt that intense compared to other guys on here, it is still pretty good being the only system i ever built from the ground up by myself. May youtube is http://www.youtube.com/user/towmantowman?feature=mhee plus im from your hometown of buffalo, ny so why not. lol

Take the card out, if you have some isopropol (sp?) alcohol put a small amount of that on a q-tip or a soft rag and clean the contacts on the video card where it seats in the board. Also try to blow out any dust if you have any compressed air.

it happens Kranny, i have seen plenty of computers i've worked on before without onboard gpu's. It helps save space and cost too.

If its a video output it would have a display that looks like a squared off cylinder that is inside a box. The pink one is for a printer, thats a parallel port (super slow lol) so it sounds like you have no onboard graphics. Id inspect the power supply and if you have a spare try to swap it to test it. It sounds like a bad PSU to me and if it still doesnt post after that i think your mobo is completely dead. Try to take the motherboard out, I had a dell a long time ago where if i screwed the motherboard down too hard it would ground out and prevent the whole computer from posting. Id see if you can get your hands on another pci express x16 graphics card to try out. If you can at least get to the bios and see it post then your board is good.

The only reason i knew is because i use that port all the time in my CCNA class to program routers and switches and my o-scope has the same db-9 connection on it. I was around for the good old ms-dos days and im only 20. lol

The connector on the right is a serial cable that is not for video. Its for old school printers and networking equipment.

try and disconnect all the extra stuff on your computer such as hard drives, dvd drives, video cards, pci cards, basically anything except for the motherboard, ram, and processor. See if it can power on at all. If it cant try to pull out your ram and plug it in one slot at a time. It could be that maybe one of your ram chips is defective but is highly unlikely. Do you have any speakers hooked to your computer at all? If the computer has the sound drivers installed and can boot into windows see if you can hear the windows loading sound. If you can then it is booting into windows like it should. If you happen to have another pc with the same connector as your graphics card try to connect it to the pc and see what it does. Id try to remove all the un-necessary stuff on the tower and disconnect the cmos battery for over 2 minutes. I would then disconnect all power sources (cmos and wall power) and hold the power button in for 30 seconds to drain the power out. Then try to power the computer on without the cmos battery connected and see what it does. Also if you can test your power supply, it is a small chance that it is broken and not putting out enough power to run the graphics card. edit: can you see the post on the screen at all? If you cant im thinking maybe something on the board died and you need a new mobo.

What ohm load do you need it to work at? I have a massive audio db8000 amp that puts out 4000w at .5 ohms.

I really wouldnt worry about it. I dont have a huge alt like yours but i have a 270 mechman alt in my '04 envoy and it gets very warm but it never failed on me and works like a champ. I just wish i had a voltage boost module with my alt (one of these days ill get it, just need to see if the guys at mechman can make me one long enough since my alt is halfway down my damn engine). I rail on my alt to all hell by running a dc 5.0k and 6 batteries and at full tilt it gives the alt a decent workout but it never fails putting out power unless its at idle which i cant say is bad because damn near no alts can put out intense amounts of power at idle so i love my alt. I would just keep an eye on it and make sure everything is fine on it. Mine gets warm fast too but i also start putting big loads on it when my engine is warm. Back when i didnt have the system in my envoy and i ran the mechman 270, xs s3400 and a single d3100 just for my 175.4 the alt was room temperature but now that i hammer on it with my 5.0k and 3 more d3100's it has a lot to do in order to keep those batteries charged.

Sounds kinda like what my envoy had earlier this year. Mine had a bad throttle body (shouldnt apply to yours, im sure yours is a throttle body which connects to your gas pedal through a cable, not electronic like mine), clogged fuel filter, old spark plugs, bad smog pump, and a clogged catalytic converter. What you can do is attempt to bypass your fuel pump on the vehicle and get some fuel injector/fuel like in this video and see if the truck can run off it at all. If you have a mechanic nearby see if they can test the fuel pressure in your fuel rail going into the engine. It could be that maybe your pump is on its way out and is cutting in and out or not providing enough pressure to supply the engine with enough fuel. Did you happen to get fuel recently for your engine? Last year i got fuel at a grocery store near my house and their gas is pure crap and my old car i had wouldnt run worth a shit until i bled the system out completely and put in good gas for it. What id do to troubleshoot it would be to take the air filter/air dam off the engine and leave it so its just the throttle body on the engine. I would then ensure that all the spark plugs on the engine are firing to ensure your distributor/coil pack isnt going bad, then id see if you can get it to start up and rev it slowly while someone sprays some carburetor cleaner inside the throttle body (be careful doing this to prevent any sparks or overspray that may cause a fire) and see how it goes. It sounds to me like either your fuel lines/rail is clogged on the truck and needs to be cleaned out or replaced or that your fuel pump isnt putting out enough pressure to run the truck at high rpm's.

Now just because i do it doesnt mean you should but my dc 5.0k is wired to .5 ohns nominal and rises to about 1.2 ohms. Now my setup is really weird because when i clamp it, i barely have any power at the lower freqs but the higher freqs have a crap ton of power on them. I clamped about 6kw of power at i believe a 40-50Hz tone, idr, but my voltage was 13.5. Those amps can take a beating and love every minute of it.

Im not sure what the formatting of the iphone is since apple changed the file systems but my old 30gb 4th gen ipod video was formatted as a fat32 volume so maybe that will help.

How is the flash drive formatted? Is it formatted through NTFS or FAT32? I to had a mp3 player do the same thing but only when i formatted to NTFS, when i wiped it and put it to FAT32 it solved it and i could throw all the songs i wanted on there without making a folder for ever one.

It depends on what you set the imprint to do. If you go in the imprint and set all the eq settings to 0 so that its "flat" then you can set the unit with the dd-1 and the imprint system running. Now if you run the imprint system and have already actually tuned the system (ie you actually flatten out the eq freq's so that they all have the same db level) then i wouldnt tune it with the dd-1 as your frequency response will be different for each frequency and will skew your results a bit as you are tuning and setting the gains on the amps, headunit, and other stuff. I noticed this with my 3sixty.2 and i dont have a dd-1 but just a tpi-440 scope. If i go in the 3sixty and set the eq so its all flat and set my gains it will be more spot on for the distortion level as opposed to letting the 3sixty.2 tune my eq itself so that it has a flat output curve. Just make sure when you do it that all your crossover settings are off and your eq is flat and your bass boost and stuff like that is off. It will really mess up your results if those are not set to off or flat.

I cant really hear anything that sounds like its slapping on your video but check the following.... 1.) Play the sub at its max volume it can go to without clipping and feel around the area where the landing of the basket is setting against the box. If you feel some or any air coming out then you need to seal it up with something like window insulator foam or make sure the screws are tightened down all the way 2.) Listen closely to where the vents are in your sub (idk if this is the same sub as in your signature but if it is please keep reading this part) play a song that has some bass to it and turn the radio up just enough to get the woofer moving a decent amount (maybe like 1/4 or 1/2 of full tilt) and put your ear next to the pole vent (the big hole in the middle of your magnet) and put your ear near the small holes between the basket and motor. You should hear almost like a hissing noise, this is totally normal as the gap between the pole piece and coil itself is small and the air gets compressed around it when the sub starts to move a lot (this is how subs cool themselves) 3.) Look between the cone of your sub and the basket of your sub. If you follow the leads where you connect the speaker wires up to, it will have 4 small tinsel leads which connect to the middle of the subwoofer. Try to put some window insulator foam on the areas where that tinsel wire runs and see if that corrects what you are hearing. 4.) Inspect your subs surround and spider pack for any loose parts where the glue may have failed. Push on the surround and spider back GENTLY to see if any parts of them appear to separate from the rest of the sub. If they do then you need to glue them back into place. 5.) Make sure your speaker wires do not get into any area where the cone is moving and that they are not run from the inside of your subwoofer opening to the outside as this will cause the air in the box to escape making a wind noise. Id say check those 5 things and let me know what you find. My AA SMD 18" gets a TON of coil noise on it when i really start to slam on my sub. The coil isnt burnt, the coil isnt damaged, sub is completely centered, everything is perfectly normal on it. Its just a design on my woofers pole vents and even when i played my SMD free air on low power in my basement before i put it in my truck i heard the wind noise coming from where the coil moves up and down a little bit. You may be experiencing this. Mine is almost similar to putting your ear into the wind and covering up your ear and uncovering your ear over and over again. I can only really hear that if im right next to the port of my box though.

Nate, i tried to do like you said with setting the parking brake and remote starting it. It does the same thing. My running lights are all on except for my headlights but when i press the unlock button on my remote then the headlights themselves flash 3 times and go back to being off.

Nate: do you mean to pull (its a lever not an actual pedal to push) for my parking brake before i remote start it or just start it normally with my key? Im pretty sure its just my DRL thats messing this all up because if i lock/unlock my truck through the stock remote my truck came with, it will flash my parking lights and running lights upon lock/unlock as well as illuminate my interior lights in the cabin. I did this mod on my DRL before i put my HID's in to prevent them from doing the buzzing noise where the hid bulbs would not get enough power to illuminate and would put a lot of strain on the ballasts. http://forums.trailv...ead.php?t=64575 and once in a blue moon will i have my lights buzz when i unlock my truck in the dark AND its not on remote start. If its on remote start it still will flash my headlights for 3 times lasting about 1 second per flash and i really want to try and stop this from happening. As i previously noted i do not want to delete my DRL's as they do come in handy sometimes for where i drive off to with college and work and i also do not want to stop my parking lights from coming on when im running the truck off remote start as it helps others see my vehicle in the street when its snowing like all hell outside. EVAlonSo: They did wire everything up right. There was no problem other than them not knowing how to program my remote starter to supply power to my rear defroster wire they ran but that was a 2 second fix for me. The headlights do not flash 3 times if i do a remote start. The ONLY time my headlights will do the flashing sequence is when i unlock the vehicle AND the remote start is running. Read below for a better description of what my lights do when i lock/unlock.... Unlocking vehicle in the day with remote start off: parking lamps will flash, interior lights will not illuminate until a door is opened and headlights do not flash at all. Unlocking vehicle in the night with remote start off: parking lamps will flash, interior lights will illuminate prior to a door being opened, headlights and reverse lights come on solid for about 15 seconds and then turn off if i do not start the truck by key. Unlocking vehicle in the day with remote start on: parking lamps will flash, interior lights will not illuminate until a door is opened, headlights do not flash or turn on at all Unlocking vehicle in the night with remote start on: parking lamps will remain steady, interior lights will illuminate, headlights and reverse lights will flash 3 times consecutively for 1 second each flash and then turn off. Remote start running: parking lights will be illuminated, headlights and reverse lights will not be illuminated.

I have one of my d3100's with 4 1/0 ring terminals connected to the positive and negative. I could easily get up to 6 max per battery terminal. What i did was get the same brand ring terminal and cut/solder them onto the wires just like you normally would. Then when connecting them to the battery i made them in almost a star pattern. For example if you were looking at my terminal one would be in the 3 o'clock position and another in the 9 o'clock position, then another at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. The best terminals to do this with are the ones by rockford fosgate (at least from the few brands ive tried out). first of all they have huge ring holes for the bolt to pass through and have a huge opening for you to feed more wire into the ring to solder and hold in place. Also they have a bigger face area where it will come into contact with your positive or ground than other terminals ive used. Below is a quick pic of the battery bank in the back of my envoy. You can see on the left side where my positive terminals are that theres one battery with 4 ring terminals on one battery post.