kickass audio

The connector on the right is a serial cable that is not for video. Its for old school printers and networking equipment.

try and disconnect all the extra stuff on your computer such as hard drives, dvd drives, video cards, pci cards, basically anything except for the motherboard, ram, and processor. See if it can power on at all. If it cant try to pull out your ram and plug it in one slot at a time. It could be that maybe one of your ram chips is defective but is highly unlikely. Do you have any speakers hooked to your computer at all? If the computer has the sound drivers installed and can boot into windows see if you can hear the windows loading sound. If you can then it is booting into windows like it should. If you happen to have another pc with the same connector as your graphics card try to connect it to the pc and see what it does. Id try to remove all the un-necessary stuff on the tower and disconnect the cmos battery for over 2 minutes. I would then disconnect all power sources (cmos and wall power) and hold the power button in for 30 seconds to drain the power out. Then try to power the computer on without the cmos battery connected and see what it does. Also if you can test your power supply, it is a small chance that it is broken and not putting out enough power to run the graphics card. edit: can you see the post on the screen at all? If you cant im thinking maybe something on the board died and you need a new mobo.

What ohm load do you need it to work at? I have a massive audio db8000 amp that puts out 4000w at .5 ohms.

I really wouldnt worry about it. I dont have a huge alt like yours but i have a 270 mechman alt in my '04 envoy and it gets very warm but it never failed on me and works like a champ. I just wish i had a voltage boost module with my alt (one of these days ill get it, just need to see if the guys at mechman can make me one long enough since my alt is halfway down my damn engine). I rail on my alt to all hell by running a dc 5.0k and 6 batteries and at full tilt it gives the alt a decent workout but it never fails putting out power unless its at idle which i cant say is bad because damn near no alts can put out intense amounts of power at idle so i love my alt. I would just keep an eye on it and make sure everything is fine on it. Mine gets warm fast too but i also start putting big loads on it when my engine is warm. Back when i didnt have the system in my envoy and i ran the mechman 270, xs s3400 and a single d3100 just for my 175.4 the alt was room temperature but now that i hammer on it with my 5.0k and 3 more d3100's it has a lot to do in order to keep those batteries charged.

Sounds kinda like what my envoy had earlier this year. Mine had a bad throttle body (shouldnt apply to yours, im sure yours is a throttle body which connects to your gas pedal through a cable, not electronic like mine), clogged fuel filter, old spark plugs, bad smog pump, and a clogged catalytic converter. What you can do is attempt to bypass your fuel pump on the vehicle and get some fuel injector/fuel like in this video and see if the truck can run off it at all. If you have a mechanic nearby see if they can test the fuel pressure in your fuel rail going into the engine. It could be that maybe your pump is on its way out and is cutting in and out or not providing enough pressure to supply the engine with enough fuel. Did you happen to get fuel recently for your engine? Last year i got fuel at a grocery store near my house and their gas is pure crap and my old car i had wouldnt run worth a shit until i bled the system out completely and put in good gas for it. What id do to troubleshoot it would be to take the air filter/air dam off the engine and leave it so its just the throttle body on the engine. I would then ensure that all the spark plugs on the engine are firing to ensure your distributor/coil pack isnt going bad, then id see if you can get it to start up and rev it slowly while someone sprays some carburetor cleaner inside the throttle body (be careful doing this to prevent any sparks or overspray that may cause a fire) and see how it goes. It sounds to me like either your fuel lines/rail is clogged on the truck and needs to be cleaned out or replaced or that your fuel pump isnt putting out enough pressure to run the truck at high rpm's.

Now just because i do it doesnt mean you should but my dc 5.0k is wired to .5 ohns nominal and rises to about 1.2 ohms. Now my setup is really weird because when i clamp it, i barely have any power at the lower freqs but the higher freqs have a crap ton of power on them. I clamped about 6kw of power at i believe a 40-50Hz tone, idr, but my voltage was 13.5. Those amps can take a beating and love every minute of it.

Im not sure what the formatting of the iphone is since apple changed the file systems but my old 30gb 4th gen ipod video was formatted as a fat32 volume so maybe that will help.

How is the flash drive formatted? Is it formatted through NTFS or FAT32? I to had a mp3 player do the same thing but only when i formatted to NTFS, when i wiped it and put it to FAT32 it solved it and i could throw all the songs i wanted on there without making a folder for ever one.

It depends on what you set the imprint to do. If you go in the imprint and set all the eq settings to 0 so that its "flat" then you can set the unit with the dd-1 and the imprint system running. Now if you run the imprint system and have already actually tuned the system (ie you actually flatten out the eq freq's so that they all have the same db level) then i wouldnt tune it with the dd-1 as your frequency response will be different for each frequency and will skew your results a bit as you are tuning and setting the gains on the amps, headunit, and other stuff. I noticed this with my 3sixty.2 and i dont have a dd-1 but just a tpi-440 scope. If i go in the 3sixty and set the eq so its all flat and set my gains it will be more spot on for the distortion level as opposed to letting the 3sixty.2 tune my eq itself so that it has a flat output curve. Just make sure when you do it that all your crossover settings are off and your eq is flat and your bass boost and stuff like that is off. It will really mess up your results if those are not set to off or flat.

I cant really hear anything that sounds like its slapping on your video but check the following.... 1.) Play the sub at its max volume it can go to without clipping and feel around the area where the landing of the basket is setting against the box. If you feel some or any air coming out then you need to seal it up with something like window insulator foam or make sure the screws are tightened down all the way 2.) Listen closely to where the vents are in your sub (idk if this is the same sub as in your signature but if it is please keep reading this part) play a song that has some bass to it and turn the radio up just enough to get the woofer moving a decent amount (maybe like 1/4 or 1/2 of full tilt) and put your ear next to the pole vent (the big hole in the middle of your magnet) and put your ear near the small holes between the basket and motor. You should hear almost like a hissing noise, this is totally normal as the gap between the pole piece and coil itself is small and the air gets compressed around it when the sub starts to move a lot (this is how subs cool themselves) 3.) Look between the cone of your sub and the basket of your sub. If you follow the leads where you connect the speaker wires up to, it will have 4 small tinsel leads which connect to the middle of the subwoofer. Try to put some window insulator foam on the areas where that tinsel wire runs and see if that corrects what you are hearing. 4.) Inspect your subs surround and spider pack for any loose parts where the glue may have failed. Push on the surround and spider back GENTLY to see if any parts of them appear to separate from the rest of the sub. If they do then you need to glue them back into place. 5.) Make sure your speaker wires do not get into any area where the cone is moving and that they are not run from the inside of your subwoofer opening to the outside as this will cause the air in the box to escape making a wind noise. Id say check those 5 things and let me know what you find. My AA SMD 18" gets a TON of coil noise on it when i really start to slam on my sub. The coil isnt burnt, the coil isnt damaged, sub is completely centered, everything is perfectly normal on it. Its just a design on my woofers pole vents and even when i played my SMD free air on low power in my basement before i put it in my truck i heard the wind noise coming from where the coil moves up and down a little bit. You may be experiencing this. Mine is almost similar to putting your ear into the wind and covering up your ear and uncovering your ear over and over again. I can only really hear that if im right next to the port of my box though.

Nate, i tried to do like you said with setting the parking brake and remote starting it. It does the same thing. My running lights are all on except for my headlights but when i press the unlock button on my remote then the headlights themselves flash 3 times and go back to being off.

Nate: do you mean to pull (its a lever not an actual pedal to push) for my parking brake before i remote start it or just start it normally with my key? Im pretty sure its just my DRL thats messing this all up because if i lock/unlock my truck through the stock remote my truck came with, it will flash my parking lights and running lights upon lock/unlock as well as illuminate my interior lights in the cabin. I did this mod on my DRL before i put my HID's in to prevent them from doing the buzzing noise where the hid bulbs would not get enough power to illuminate and would put a lot of strain on the ballasts. http://forums.trailv...ead.php?t=64575 and once in a blue moon will i have my lights buzz when i unlock my truck in the dark AND its not on remote start. If its on remote start it still will flash my headlights for 3 times lasting about 1 second per flash and i really want to try and stop this from happening. As i previously noted i do not want to delete my DRL's as they do come in handy sometimes for where i drive off to with college and work and i also do not want to stop my parking lights from coming on when im running the truck off remote start as it helps others see my vehicle in the street when its snowing like all hell outside. EVAlonSo: They did wire everything up right. There was no problem other than them not knowing how to program my remote starter to supply power to my rear defroster wire they ran but that was a 2 second fix for me. The headlights do not flash 3 times if i do a remote start. The ONLY time my headlights will do the flashing sequence is when i unlock the vehicle AND the remote start is running. Read below for a better description of what my lights do when i lock/unlock.... Unlocking vehicle in the day with remote start off: parking lamps will flash, interior lights will not illuminate until a door is opened and headlights do not flash at all. Unlocking vehicle in the night with remote start off: parking lamps will flash, interior lights will illuminate prior to a door being opened, headlights and reverse lights come on solid for about 15 seconds and then turn off if i do not start the truck by key. Unlocking vehicle in the day with remote start on: parking lamps will flash, interior lights will not illuminate until a door is opened, headlights do not flash or turn on at all Unlocking vehicle in the night with remote start on: parking lamps will remain steady, interior lights will illuminate, headlights and reverse lights will flash 3 times consecutively for 1 second each flash and then turn off. Remote start running: parking lights will be illuminated, headlights and reverse lights will not be illuminated.

I have one of my d3100's with 4 1/0 ring terminals connected to the positive and negative. I could easily get up to 6 max per battery terminal. What i did was get the same brand ring terminal and cut/solder them onto the wires just like you normally would. Then when connecting them to the battery i made them in almost a star pattern. For example if you were looking at my terminal one would be in the 3 o'clock position and another in the 9 o'clock position, then another at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. The best terminals to do this with are the ones by rockford fosgate (at least from the few brands ive tried out). first of all they have huge ring holes for the bolt to pass through and have a huge opening for you to feed more wire into the ring to solder and hold in place. Also they have a bigger face area where it will come into contact with your positive or ground than other terminals ive used. Below is a quick pic of the battery bank in the back of my envoy. You can see on the left side where my positive terminals are that theres one battery with 4 ring terminals on one battery post.

ok we are going to have some fun doing this but its not hard. 1.) grab your 2 way lcd remote and hold in the function key for about 10 seconds or until it beeps a long tone and shows "main setup" toward the bottom of the screen near where the lock/unlock buttons are. 2.) then press the "aux" button on your remote 4 times until it says "pair remote" then press the "f" key on your remote 3.) open a door in your vehicle (preferably the driver side front door) 4.) press the valet/program switch on your receiver/transmitter that is attached to your window once, release it, then hold it in. your horn and lights may flash and honk once to confirm you are in programming mode. 5.) while still holding the valet/program button on your window in, press the lock button on your 2-way remote. your alarm should chirp to tell you that it has been learned. 6.) you can now release the programming button on your receiver/transmitter thats on your window and test the remotes to make sure they are working. note: its on page 35 and 36 of your owners manual if you get stuck note 2: you dont need to re-program the 1-way remote, once its learned it will always be paired to the system unless you delete the remote from the system. note 3: if you wish to have the manual to look at while programming and learning all the cool ways to customize your alarm go here http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Viper/N5702V_2008_08web.pdf this is the manual for your alarm system. theres a ton of sweet things you can program on it.

thats more than enough to back it up. I have a single smd 18 powered by a dc 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal rising to at most 1.2 ohms, its usually rised to .78-.8 ohms though. I have a 270 amp mechman alt, and a single xs power s3400 battery up front with 4 xs power d3100's in the rear next to my amps. If i have my engine above 1500 rpm's i dont get any lower than 13.78 some odd volts but if im at idle which for me is 600 rpm's i get the drop down to 12.9 if i keep it at full tilt and slam for longer than 5 minutes. I only did that once just to test how much of a load my alt could take at idle but i refuse to bass at redlights because for one it pisses everyone off who cant get away from my loud ass truck and two it kills my alt from that heavy load it cannot produce at idle. Now are you going to get something like an aq3500 for your two btl's? Is that what you mean by strapping them together or are you getting two amps to strap and get around 3500w rms? Also what ohm are you strapping it down to? For me what id say to do would be to get the alt in there first if you are hard on a budget and get as many batts as you can. For the one you can fit under your hood id prefer to have nothing lower than 2 d3100 batteries but would prefer to have 3 just as extra reserve and if you plan to bump with the car off. I have played my system at full tilt with my truck off for an hour and a half once and never fell below 12.6v when the batteries usually rest at 12.8v so i think thats pretty good for how long i was slamming on them.

Way to bump a 3 month old thread!!

it was professionally installed. i wouldnt attempt this my first time around. now i can do it because i know how to do most of this part in the install. The shops in my area dont have bitwriter (i think only shitbuy aka best buy has them) and i refuse to go to them to have them reprogram it. I looked and bitwriter doesnt contain the part for this. And its not the problem of the lights being on, im fine with my parking lamps being on but the headlights coming on is my problem i want to stop. I want my 4 way lights to come on solid when its started up because in the winter time you cant really see my truck well without them illuminated.

Ok so i have a 2004 gmc envoy as you can see in my sig. Theres one problem i noticed with my trucks alarm/remote start (viper 5901). With it being cold up here in Buffalo, NY i have been using the remote starter some nights to defrost my truck before i leave work or class. Well one thing i noticed is that when i unlock the truck and the truck is running off the remote start my headlights and reverse lights will blink on and off 3 times rapidly. This is VERY bad for me because i have futurevision hid's installed in my truck and turning hid's on and off fast is bad for the bulb and ballast from what ive read. What i was wondering is what i can do to get around this. Is there a way to re-program the lights so that it doesnt flash my headlights 3 times when i unlock the truck while its started through the remote start? Do i have to clip a wire from the harness of my alarm so it doesnt engage the lights? The way its setup and wired right now (i didnt install it so please forgive me for not knowing which wires were tapped into) but when the truck is off and i unlock it, if its in the day time the parking lights will flash 2 times and the headlights will never flash. If i unlock the truck when its off but its dark outside the parking lights will flash 2 times and the parking/reverse lights will stay on for about 30 seconds until they shut off by themselves (this is the stock feature of my truck so im not bad with this although if you keep reading it does present a problem). If i have the truck running off the remote start and unlock my truck whether its in the day or night the parking lamps will be on and the headlights and reverse lights will flash 3 times for about 3 second long flashes and then stop. To elaborate on what i said before with how my truck's headlamps turn on and stay on for 30 seconds this is bad for me if i have been driving the truck around or have had the lights on. If i had the lights on because i was driving and i lock my truck but come back to it within a hour and unlock my truck in the dark my driver side light will ignite at its full brightness but my passenger side light will flicker badly and it will make the ballast/bulb buzz very loudly. If i look directly into my projector it looks like my bulb itself is sparking on the inside. If while this is going on i go in my truck and manually turn on my headlights it will stop buzzing and both lights will be at their full brightness. Im sure i cant get around this without getting a DRL killer but i really dont want to install one of those. Sorry for the long ass post but i like to elaborate on what im facing so people can understand what im facing.

It could be. Since its covered I'd just send it in and be without beats for a few weeks. Lol

Id get the components. Having the tweeter down low will make your highs sound like garbage. I noticed a huge difference when i put my door speakers in my truck even running off the h/u for a day it was still a big improvement. The tweeters on them are not harsh because they arent made out of aluminium or silk. These will have a warmer output on them so it wont make your ears hurt if you listen to songs with a ton of treble in them like metal can do.

well im not sure then. its supposed to be in single. one thing you can try as the final thing i can think of is get a mp3 player or an ipod and get an 3.5mm jack to a rca output and connect that to your amp to see if it plays at all or mess with the crossover. if it still doesnt work when its in single then it may be the amp.

change the ground. Do not use seat belt, seat, door latches, hinges, or any other bolt like this. They are piss poor bolts that will not conduct enough electricity to make that power hungry amp work. Also when you say it works when its in slave mode, does it actually play music or does it just make a pop noise or hum? What kind of vehicle is this installed in? Id say connect it directly to your battery if you can as this will provide enough power if your battery is properly charged to turn the amp on and play some music. Your rca inputs are connected directly to your amps input connections? Also your amps master/slave switch should be set to single (all the way to the left) and your rca's should be connected to the left most rca connectors (near the control knobs/switches). The amp should not work in master/slave at all as there needs to be another amp which is connected with the bd-sync cable to complete the circuit and allow the amp to communicate.

sounds good bro. if you get stuck let me know. i have had the same problems with my first systems too and its a pain and gets very frustrating but just take your time and you will figure it out. If you want to make sure the amp is truly working connect it directly to your battery (ie power and ground going to the battery itself, not the frame or anything) then take the remote turn on wire and put that to the positive output of your battery. The amp should then turn on. If it does then your amp is working so far.

Why dont you try this. First of all seat bolt grounds are NEVER a good grounding location. If you can get a nut and a bolt or ground to a strut tower it would be the best ground over a cheap seat belt bolt. Also for your resistance try doing this to figure the resistance of your jumper cable. Take the red probe of your DMM and touch one side of the jumper cables wire, take the black probe of the DMM and touch the opposite side of the same cable on your jumper wire. The resistance you read is the resting resistance you will ALWAYS have on that able. Now you need to figure if your DMM is accurate or not, to do this just touch the red and black probes together without it being connected to any wires and read the resistance, if you have anything more than 0.000 on it then this is even more resistance you have. So lets say you do this and you find out that the resistance of your jumper cable is 1 ohm and the resistance of your meter itself is .2 ohms. Your readings for resistance will be off by 1.2 ohms with anything you read resistance on so you MUST subtract this from your resistance you are reading at the end. Now if you go back into your car and measure the resistance from the ground of the amp to the seat belt bolt and it reads 8.2 ohms then you would take the 8.2 ohms you read and subtract that from the 1.2 ohms your meter is off by. The final result is that you have 7 ohms of resistance on your amps ground wire and it needs to be fixed or you can kill the amp. I always make sure there is no paint, rust, corrosion, loose bolts/nuts, and a good crimp on the connections when you have resistance. Also one thing you should do (its overkill but it helps so much more than you can think) is to disconnect the ground cable from the amp and seat belt bolt. Measure the resistance of JUST that cable and see what it is. I have my one run of 1/0 to the rear battery bank that has .5 ohms of resistance on it due to my fuse blocks but the rest of the wire is at 0. Id double check the resistance across all the wires. Also just as a friendly reminder NEVER test resistance by taking the positive probe and negative probe and touching your batteries positive and negative terminals. Resistance can never be tested on energized circuits and it will blow your multimeters fuse if you do this.

I would have texted him back and said "thats because you have to get a gorilla back there to pound on the subs to make them play. Ever hear the song king kong? Well thats what he means by it" hahaha. And to think my dad was horrible with systems and understanding how they work by fighting with me the entire time i was building the box for my SMD and pulling a dr. subwoofer with the "port hole" SMFH!!!