kickass audio

ok we are going to have some fun doing this but its not hard. 1.) grab your 2 way lcd remote and hold in the function key for about 10 seconds or until it beeps a long tone and shows "main setup" toward the bottom of the screen near where the lock/unlock buttons are. 2.) then press the "aux" button on your remote 4 times until it says "pair remote" then press the "f" key on your remote 3.) open a door in your vehicle (preferably the driver side front door) 4.) press the valet/program switch on your receiver/transmitter that is attached to your window once, release it, then hold it in. your horn and lights may flash and honk once to confirm you are in programming mode. 5.) while still holding the valet/program button on your window in, press the lock button on your 2-way remote. your alarm should chirp to tell you that it has been learned. 6.) you can now release the programming button on your receiver/transmitter thats on your window and test the remotes to make sure they are working. note: its on page 35 and 36 of your owners manual if you get stuck note 2: you dont need to re-program the 1-way remote, once its learned it will always be paired to the system unless you delete the remote from the system. note 3: if you wish to have the manual to look at while programming and learning all the cool ways to customize your alarm go here http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Viper/N5702V_2008_08web.pdf this is the manual for your alarm system. theres a ton of sweet things you can program on it.

thats more than enough to back it up. I have a single smd 18 powered by a dc 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal rising to at most 1.2 ohms, its usually rised to .78-.8 ohms though. I have a 270 amp mechman alt, and a single xs power s3400 battery up front with 4 xs power d3100's in the rear next to my amps. If i have my engine above 1500 rpm's i dont get any lower than 13.78 some odd volts but if im at idle which for me is 600 rpm's i get the drop down to 12.9 if i keep it at full tilt and slam for longer than 5 minutes. I only did that once just to test how much of a load my alt could take at idle but i refuse to bass at redlights because for one it pisses everyone off who cant get away from my loud ass truck and two it kills my alt from that heavy load it cannot produce at idle. Now are you going to get something like an aq3500 for your two btl's? Is that what you mean by strapping them together or are you getting two amps to strap and get around 3500w rms? Also what ohm are you strapping it down to? For me what id say to do would be to get the alt in there first if you are hard on a budget and get as many batts as you can. For the one you can fit under your hood id prefer to have nothing lower than 2 d3100 batteries but would prefer to have 3 just as extra reserve and if you plan to bump with the car off. I have played my system at full tilt with my truck off for an hour and a half once and never fell below 12.6v when the batteries usually rest at 12.8v so i think thats pretty good for how long i was slamming on them.

Way to bump a 3 month old thread!!

it was professionally installed. i wouldnt attempt this my first time around. now i can do it because i know how to do most of this part in the install. The shops in my area dont have bitwriter (i think only shitbuy aka best buy has them) and i refuse to go to them to have them reprogram it. I looked and bitwriter doesnt contain the part for this. And its not the problem of the lights being on, im fine with my parking lamps being on but the headlights coming on is my problem i want to stop. I want my 4 way lights to come on solid when its started up because in the winter time you cant really see my truck well without them illuminated.

Ok so i have a 2004 gmc envoy as you can see in my sig. Theres one problem i noticed with my trucks alarm/remote start (viper 5901). With it being cold up here in Buffalo, NY i have been using the remote starter some nights to defrost my truck before i leave work or class. Well one thing i noticed is that when i unlock the truck and the truck is running off the remote start my headlights and reverse lights will blink on and off 3 times rapidly. This is VERY bad for me because i have futurevision hid's installed in my truck and turning hid's on and off fast is bad for the bulb and ballast from what ive read. What i was wondering is what i can do to get around this. Is there a way to re-program the lights so that it doesnt flash my headlights 3 times when i unlock the truck while its started through the remote start? Do i have to clip a wire from the harness of my alarm so it doesnt engage the lights? The way its setup and wired right now (i didnt install it so please forgive me for not knowing which wires were tapped into) but when the truck is off and i unlock it, if its in the day time the parking lights will flash 2 times and the headlights will never flash. If i unlock the truck when its off but its dark outside the parking lights will flash 2 times and the parking/reverse lights will stay on for about 30 seconds until they shut off by themselves (this is the stock feature of my truck so im not bad with this although if you keep reading it does present a problem). If i have the truck running off the remote start and unlock my truck whether its in the day or night the parking lamps will be on and the headlights and reverse lights will flash 3 times for about 3 second long flashes and then stop. To elaborate on what i said before with how my truck's headlamps turn on and stay on for 30 seconds this is bad for me if i have been driving the truck around or have had the lights on. If i had the lights on because i was driving and i lock my truck but come back to it within a hour and unlock my truck in the dark my driver side light will ignite at its full brightness but my passenger side light will flicker badly and it will make the ballast/bulb buzz very loudly. If i look directly into my projector it looks like my bulb itself is sparking on the inside. If while this is going on i go in my truck and manually turn on my headlights it will stop buzzing and both lights will be at their full brightness. Im sure i cant get around this without getting a DRL killer but i really dont want to install one of those. Sorry for the long ass post but i like to elaborate on what im facing so people can understand what im facing.

It could be. Since its covered I'd just send it in and be without beats for a few weeks. Lol

Id get the components. Having the tweeter down low will make your highs sound like garbage. I noticed a huge difference when i put my door speakers in my truck even running off the h/u for a day it was still a big improvement. The tweeters on them are not harsh because they arent made out of aluminium or silk. These will have a warmer output on them so it wont make your ears hurt if you listen to songs with a ton of treble in them like metal can do.

well im not sure then. its supposed to be in single. one thing you can try as the final thing i can think of is get a mp3 player or an ipod and get an 3.5mm jack to a rca output and connect that to your amp to see if it plays at all or mess with the crossover. if it still doesnt work when its in single then it may be the amp.

change the ground. Do not use seat belt, seat, door latches, hinges, or any other bolt like this. They are piss poor bolts that will not conduct enough electricity to make that power hungry amp work. Also when you say it works when its in slave mode, does it actually play music or does it just make a pop noise or hum? What kind of vehicle is this installed in? Id say connect it directly to your battery if you can as this will provide enough power if your battery is properly charged to turn the amp on and play some music. Your rca inputs are connected directly to your amps input connections? Also your amps master/slave switch should be set to single (all the way to the left) and your rca's should be connected to the left most rca connectors (near the control knobs/switches). The amp should not work in master/slave at all as there needs to be another amp which is connected with the bd-sync cable to complete the circuit and allow the amp to communicate.

sounds good bro. if you get stuck let me know. i have had the same problems with my first systems too and its a pain and gets very frustrating but just take your time and you will figure it out. If you want to make sure the amp is truly working connect it directly to your battery (ie power and ground going to the battery itself, not the frame or anything) then take the remote turn on wire and put that to the positive output of your battery. The amp should then turn on. If it does then your amp is working so far.

Why dont you try this. First of all seat bolt grounds are NEVER a good grounding location. If you can get a nut and a bolt or ground to a strut tower it would be the best ground over a cheap seat belt bolt. Also for your resistance try doing this to figure the resistance of your jumper cable. Take the red probe of your DMM and touch one side of the jumper cables wire, take the black probe of the DMM and touch the opposite side of the same cable on your jumper wire. The resistance you read is the resting resistance you will ALWAYS have on that able. Now you need to figure if your DMM is accurate or not, to do this just touch the red and black probes together without it being connected to any wires and read the resistance, if you have anything more than 0.000 on it then this is even more resistance you have. So lets say you do this and you find out that the resistance of your jumper cable is 1 ohm and the resistance of your meter itself is .2 ohms. Your readings for resistance will be off by 1.2 ohms with anything you read resistance on so you MUST subtract this from your resistance you are reading at the end. Now if you go back into your car and measure the resistance from the ground of the amp to the seat belt bolt and it reads 8.2 ohms then you would take the 8.2 ohms you read and subtract that from the 1.2 ohms your meter is off by. The final result is that you have 7 ohms of resistance on your amps ground wire and it needs to be fixed or you can kill the amp. I always make sure there is no paint, rust, corrosion, loose bolts/nuts, and a good crimp on the connections when you have resistance. Also one thing you should do (its overkill but it helps so much more than you can think) is to disconnect the ground cable from the amp and seat belt bolt. Measure the resistance of JUST that cable and see what it is. I have my one run of 1/0 to the rear battery bank that has .5 ohms of resistance on it due to my fuse blocks but the rest of the wire is at 0. Id double check the resistance across all the wires. Also just as a friendly reminder NEVER test resistance by taking the positive probe and negative probe and touching your batteries positive and negative terminals. Resistance can never be tested on energized circuits and it will blow your multimeters fuse if you do this.

I would have texted him back and said "thats because you have to get a gorilla back there to pound on the subs to make them play. Ever hear the song king kong? Well thats what he means by it" hahaha. And to think my dad was horrible with systems and understanding how they work by fighting with me the entire time i was building the box for my SMD and pulling a dr. subwoofer with the "port hole" SMFH!!!

When mine had shorted out it blasted a hole through the ring terminal and turned it green. Lol. It also blew a chunk of metal off the terminal on my cap. I can only think of how bad it would be if we didn't have fuses and shorted out a cable run. Haha

The dd-1 is the cheapest and easiest way to set the gains, plus its so damn accurate you cant beat it. My scope is good enough for what i do but if i didnt have the scope and was deciding between a scope and the dd-1 i would so hop on the dd-1 i wouldnt think twice about it.

Just to give you a little insight on what i do for ALL my power wire connections i have: 1.) I take the wire and strip the jacket off just enough so that the crimped end will have a tiny amount of wire that goes past it (usually its 1/4 of a inch) 2.) Then i take a wire brush that you use to scratch up copper pipes you solder in your house and scratch up the inside of the ring where the wire goes into it 3.) I take some soldering flux and put a good amount of it on the wire i just stripped the jacket off of and put some on the very end of the wire and slide the wire into the ring terminal 4.) I then take the wire and ring terminal and put it into a bench vice and crimp the ring around the wire as hard as i can (if you dont have a bench vice you can do the hammer trick of putting the terminal on the ground and hammering it flat, if you do it this way i do NOT recommend you use a hammer with a grooved head or do this on blacktop, do it on flat concrete if you can) 5.) Take the wire and terminal out of your bench vice and place it so that the terminal is about 3 inches from your bench vice's jaws and tighten the vice so its just holding the wires jacket nice and snug, dont clamp down on it hard!! 6.) Get a pair of long pliers you can use to assist with holding the wire up straight during the entire process and to prevent you from getting burned by the torch or hot wire/terminal 7.) I light up my propane (mapp gas will work too but do this in a well ventilated area) torch and then hold the flame onto the end of the ring terminal for a minute to get the ring and part of the wire heated up, once it starts to get hot i grab my lead free solder and put it right onto where the opening is in the ring like you see in the vids above and i do this until i can see the solder falling down past the ring terminal. I also when i see the solder going past the ring terminal i like to wrap it up by taking the solder and putting a quick line of it across the joint on the terminal to make sure that cant split open at all. 8.) I take the wire out of the bench vice with the pliers you used to hold the wire up straight in the vice and take the wire out of the bench vice 9.) I then soak the terminal under cold water for a second or two until it stops hissing from the water hitting it. 10.) The wire will still be hot so i let it sit on a concrete floor to cool off for a few minutes then i put the rubber boot on the wire and install the wire. It sounds like a lot i know but its not as hard as it sounds. Basically when you solder just do it like i provided in the steps or like in the videos above. Its personal preference how you want to approach it to be honest. Some people like to crimp their ring terminal, others just solder them on the wire. The only reason i crimp mine is to have the extra insurance that if the solder doesnt stick the wire will still be held into place and not come loose. Also as a little tip when you solder you want the solder to have a nice and shiny or almost mirror finish to it. If when you solder and it is a dull type of finish you arent applying enough heat to the wire/terminal and need to stop putting the solder onto it and heat the area up some more then continue soldering. This is what is called as a cold solder connection and they increase your resistance in your power wire and are very bad to have in any system. If i were you and this is your first time soldering see if you can get some cheap wire like 8ga or something and play around with soldering it. You cannot solder large wires with a soldering gun, it just wont put out the heat needed to get the entire wire bundle or connector hot to melt the solder into it uniformly. edit to 412 cvx: the solder pellets are good to use but are sometimes a pain to use because if for example you solder your wire with pellets and place 3 pellets on the top of the opening for the terminal it will usually melt the pellets before it has any chance to seep into the wire and it will make the solder melt and go on the outside of the terminal instead. I prefer to just get a long spool of solder and feed that onto the surface i am soldering and be done with it. Pellets are a matter of knowing how many pellets will be enough to produce the amount of solder you need.

Like Ray said you are perfectly fine. As long as you didnt short out the battery for like a minute or two it will be perfectly fine. I accidentally shorted out my s3400 battery on my old car when my stupid capacitor had a loose wire and moved down and grounded itself out for a second. I am still using that battery to this day and the arc occurred 2+ years ago and the battery runs nice and strong.

ok, so i have the headlights back on my truck and so far they look like they are not coming apart anytime soon with that windo-weld i used. The only problem i have is my one projector managed to get itself off level. My driver side projector is nice and level for the cutoff however my passenger side projector is leaning down toward the right and looks like total garbage if you ask me. Since the lights are sealed up and i can not have any way to get it torn apart to re-adjust the leveling on them does anyone have anything i can try to level it? I would take the back part of the projector out and turn it slightly from the rear where the bulb goes in but im afraid of backing it off too far and getting the damn thing to start wobbling around or to make it loose in the housing. What i thought of doing was to remove the bulb and getting some long pliers and get into the back of the projector and attempt to turn the entire projector just enough to make the cutoff level again but im afraid of snapping the projector housing my light came with (not the projector from futurevision since it is so damn strong and well built) or making the nut back off even though i have the back plate on it tightly so it shouldnt back off the nut. Does anyone have any suggestions on what i can try to get it level? I really am going to kick my self in the ass for it because the light that is not level is the one that has a half broken front clip on my truck since the previous owner hit that side into a wall or something and cracked the front clip that holds the headlights, grille, and part of my bumper on so i have to play for 15 minutes just to get the damn headlight locked in place. Also sorry to make this old post back up to the top, i figured it would be kinda stupid to make a new post just for this. Thanks!!!

no problem man. As long as you dont play too low of a tone on the speaker or ramp up the power to an ungodly amount you shouldnt have any problems with it. It prob just has some crap in there or has the slight risk that the coil is rubbing in there, you never can truly know until your playing around with things to try and fix it.

i wouldnt blow any air into it. It will make anything that may have fallen into the coil gap go further into the gap and get stuck at the bottom of the magnet. Like i said, if you can try to either gently turn the pole holding your tweeter on the speaker or pull it off do that and get inside where the coil is for your midrange driver. If you cant id just try to get something like painters tape and roll it up in a circle and put it in there one side at a time to get the sticky side to grab onto anything in there and take it out. The one my dad has does not have a bad coil, just a ton of crap in the gap area which i was able to get to fall out from slamming on them with my new 4 channel amp. lmao

it could be something inside where the coil gap is or a blown coil. My solox was like that when it was blown, at low volumes i could hear that damn coil rubbing on the pole piece like all hell but when i cranked it up on its last few minutes of life i didnt hear it. I also have a set of 6.5" my dad got that are the same type of design as your 6x9. His has small fragments of glass and metal in where the coil gap is since it was ripped out of a car that was in a collision. I tried to clean it out with some tape but it still has some in there. One thing i did to try and help it was to push on the cone from side to side to make the inside of the coil rub on the gap and then rotate sides until the scraping would stop. You could keep railing on it but i wouldnt recommend it. If it was me id see if you can get some tape wedged in the gap area and pick anything out of there because you may have something in there. If it comes out clean then try to push GENTLY and rock the cone from side to side to see if you can get any dirt out of the area. If you can remove the center piece that is holding your tweeter on take that out and look down in there to see if theres any crap in there.

sounds like it or maybe it cracked loose a little bit. It could have just cracked loose or may have had a cold solder connection.

do you happen to have each coil on the sub wired to an independent bolt somewhere on the box? I did that with my sub and it is a hell of a lot easier to swap the sub from series to parallel without taking the sub out, plus i can troubleshoot it a lot easier too. If you have it set like this with each terminal of the sub going to its own bolt or wire on the box then just troubleshoot it from there.

it may be because you had it for so long, when i got the email i had 3 vids up and they were short stupid videos of my old system. I believe my account was opened for 3+ years now and i only had videos on it for a little shy of a year at the time, i think its just for how long you have your youtube account and if theres any vids in it or something.

how long have you had your youtube account? i got an email sent to my gmail about adsense and i only have like 5-6 some odd videos on my youtube and they dont have very high view ratings and i was shocked when i got it. Plus dont expect to make a whole lot of money, its pennies if that unless the person clicks on the ad and goes to the site then you make a little more.

Just to double check im sure you are smart enough to notice this though, but are you reading it with the amps off? I tried to read mine once with absolutely no sound going through and i forgot my headunit was still on and my resistance was fluctuating quite a bit until i shut it off completely and it read like normal. One thing you can try to do would be to measure each coil independent from each other to see if any coils have a problem, then hook each sub up in series but keep them seperate from eachother for the moment and see what they read. Each sub should read about 2 ohms when its wired in series and NOT connected to the other sub. If it does then repeat this to the other sub and see what it does. I had this problem before and i just brushed it off like its nothing and later in the day after i played them for a little it somehow fixed itself and my resistance was back to normal.