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kickass audio

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Everything posted by kickass audio

  1. It is in beta for the 18. I would love to give theirs a try in my box for my truck but its too big of a box for it.
  2. I never tell prices on the equipment I buy. But I will say I paid the asking price for it. http://damoreengineering.com/subwoofers.html And yes Chevy it is so simple but so awesome. Its hard to get a picture of with it being all anodized aluminium. The flash bounces off it so bad when I take the picture. That cone is the even more rigid than the one my SMD has and the SMD has like 1/8" or so thick of paper on the cone.
  3. I really don't have much of a need for the im-sg thats why I didn't get it. And Braxton you just hate that I have 2 vu-dins and you have 0 lol.
  4. That it is. I really like how well they packaged it. I have had so many things come through fedex and the driver in my area thinks its major league football with the packages. In fact one day I busted him throwing a box the size the dd-1 comes in from the street up on the porch. Fuckin ass. I bitched him out big time for that move. I really like the layout of the tinsels being in the spider like they are. Its not stitched around like most other brands have, the tinsel is actually weaved into the spider which is really nice. Its so funny to take your finger and tap the cone with it being metal and hearing the difference. This sub gets DOWN too. I was maybe giving it 200w or less of power off my plate amp I bought just for it which is a 1kw amp and with very little power it had real deep bass on free air and sounded excellent. I could barely even hear the air moving around the cooling plugs on the pole piece and gap which is nice because my SMD makes a shit ton of noise in the gap when it gets down low.
  5. Just wanted to post some pics of my AF-15 I just received today from the guys at D'Amore Engineering. I can't thank Juan and Tony enough for taking the time to sign the dustcap for me and for how they test EVERY woofer to give the full specs of the sub AND for how excellent the packaging is on the sub along with all their other products I have purchased. You guys have a lifelong customer on your hands as I am a proud owner of the DD-1, CC-1, 2 vu-din's and now the AF-15. Anyway here are some pics of it: How it came to me. It was shipped with the sub in its own box and then that box was inside another box with foam around it on all sides and a TON of packing foam with a thick cardboard box. Excellent packaging. Now onto the stuff you all like to see...
  6. I think the OM1 is the same thing in regards to features as the vu-din but in a single unit as opposed to a 2 meters in one board. When its anything above 00 on the om1 it is considered clipping. Now its not necessarily distortion because it just goes by your voltage level so you could be distorting the signal but it will not show that until you hit that voltage ceiling you set on the meter.
  7. My DC 5k has a slight hum to it when I have it just below distortion but if I crank the gain up full blast the humming gets really bad and more of buzzes than hums. My 175.4 doesn't do that but they are different class amps so im sure that affects it too. I wouldn't worry about it really.
  8. Im sure they will still say it is belt slip. That is their most common problem they encounter and is not at all their fault. Seriously water is your friend with this. as long as you dont shove a power washer or hose in your engine then you will be fine. Just a few sprays on the back of the belt a few times to see if it goes away or not. Simple as that.
  9. Just check what I said with the water. You would be surprised how much that helped me out with my belt slip issue. I kept tossing money toward shitty advance auto belts that are super inferior and getting tensioners and idler pulleys until I figured out my belt slip issue. What I use now is an advance auto tensioner and idler pulley and then I have a Carquest Gates belt for it. The gates belt made all the difference. I noticed the one from advance had always slipped and would wear the paint off my idler pulley in 3 months and at that point my belt drive would squeal whenever my engine was cold.
  10. Try seeing if it is belt slip. If you have an automatic tensioner the whole idea of getting a shorter belt is erroneous to fixing belt slip as the tensioner has the same amount of tension regardless on its position. To see if your tensioner is bad get some water and a spray bottle. Spray the water on the flat side of the belt and see if it goes away. If it does then your belt is not under enough tension and a new tensioner is needed. If you have a manual tensioner such as ones where you have to usually turn a bolt on the alternator to move it up and down you need to tighten it so your belt has less slack. If you find that spraying the back of the belt with water you still have squealing then you probably have a belt alignment issue. Check that all your ribbed pulleys such as the one on your alternator are in line with the ribbed pulley of your crank shaft. If they are out of alignment it will cause belt squeal. If that is not the case then the final thing is you have a bad bearing. Take the belt out and wiggle each pulley side to side and up and down. If it has play then that pulley is bad and needs to be replaced. Sometimes cars with idler pulleys such as my envoy the idler pulleys go to shit rather fast. Lmk if you need anymore help!!
  11. Im confident in you Steve. You aren't a fool and know how to monitor things before they can go wrong. At most mine will get very warm as all a/b amps tend to do and the fan will kick on but thats really all it ever does when I hammer on the amp.
  12. After the things that ppi has been through i strongly doubt it will be up in smoke. I would never believe meade if he called me and said my amp blew up on him. And you can wait to do the testing. I know you are working on that Chevelle you have and everything else. Im not in any hurry to get it tested.
  13. You should do a troll style video. Test my 2350 and halfway through do like a rick roll of you testing the BOSS amp and watching it go up in smoke. lol. And is this better for my sig? sorry it was too long.
  14. Oh shit son. I see my Precision Power PC2350. YEEE!! Can't wait to get the results of it. Oh and BTW steve, I got let off from being pulled over when you called me at school. And the cop asked me what was with all my batteries and I told him what I had and he just goes "oh yeah?? you got dem beats huh?? got dem beats??" lol
  15. I use Dupli-Color undercoating for under some spots on my truck. Its a great paint as it is rubberized and has a bed-liner look to it where it forms into a gravel like feel when its dried (don't really know how to call the texture lmao). I'd say to give that a try but honestly you really shouldn't have any need to do it as it is a boat and just washing it every so often will help it out. Its not like you are driving it through a winter storm with a shit load of salt on the roadways. That shit kills paint and metal!
  16. Can't wait to have you test my PPI PC2350 and DC 175.4 (btw its towmantowman from youtube, I didn't have a SMD account at that time so thats why they are both different) lol. Thanks again dude. You are the man!!
  17. Its not necessarily the tensioner unless its bad. I had issues on mine where the tensioner was not absorbing the bounce that your engine gets from it firing the pistons so the tensioner was bouncing around and causing the belt to get bumps from where it would be tight, loose, tight, etc during its cycle. I replaced the OEM tensioner with one from advance automotive and replaced to their belt and had mad belt slippage. I had replaced my idler pulley but that broke again from the bearing being bad a second time and the belt was still slipping and you could tell since the brand new idler pulley had the black paint worn off down to bare metal and the writing on the outer part of the belt was worn off. So I had dumped 3 belts from advance all of which I didnt have to pay for since they were all under warranty and got so sick of them doing the same shit after 3-4 months of use so I went to NAPA and bought a GATES belt for mine and it stopped all forms of slipping that I had. Before with advance auto's belt whenever I slammed the gas and it downshifted you would hear the belt squeal like hell and I had tons of rubber around my entire belt drive. I also caught on that my dad had the same issues and he ran the same shitty advance auto belts so I wanted to give gates a try and sure enough it fixed all my issues. Now I only have a quick squeal when I punch the gas and it downshifts but there is no wear or dust like that from the belt on my engine at all and my alt doesn't get hot like it used to from belt slippage causing the pulley to get hot. Long story short, try getting a GATES belt and maybe a tensioner as well. Just get the ones for your OEM specs and see how it goes.
  18. That almost seems like you tightened the bolt down too far and it had pushed up the bolt that is welded or soldered into the i-bar itself. If I can make a suggestion for your setup get a longer screw and take your batteries 580 posts and connect them directly to the "middle" post of the i-bar where it bolts down into the battery terminal. I only have the i-bar 551 for my setup and it works great. I just have all my ring terminals connected at the top of the i-bar with the bolt passing through them and have had 0 electrical problems and the screws go deep into the battery terminal itself so its secure. As a little side note, did you use the locking washer that came with the 580 posts? If not then that is why it failed since that washer helps prevent the bolt from bottoming out on the i-bar and making the bolt push upwards. If this was my product I would make the bolts a little shorter so this could not happen and I also would not warranty this as it should have been noticeable that the terminal was being bolted in firmly but would still have some play to signify that the bolt is in all the way but is not grabbing the post adapter.
  19. I bought a ton of 16 gauge speaker wire from Trey_Dog650 along with a fuse holder with 200A fuse and a 3 way 1/0 gauge distro. Very fast shipment from him and beyond exceptional communication. I had questions on whether I could put a 1/0 to 4ga reducer in the distro and asked if he could get measurements for me to see if it would fit easily or not and he did exactly that and did it fast too. Great pricing and all around perfect and easy sale. Would totally recommend to anyone who is looking to buy any products from Trey_Dog to just go through with it, you will be pleased for sure. Thanks again bro!!!
  20. Mods: Forgive me if this is bad since the last post was October last year. I had bought 4 sets of AA carbon mids from Cody a week ago and they came in the other day. Mint condition and as with all the other transactions we have had it was packaged perfectly, priced well and had great communication. My only downside to buying things from Cody is that he keeps taking all my money from me, but I am his number 1 customer!! lmao. Thanks for the cool stuff all the time Cody. Ill help you keep that wallet fat if you keep providing awesome products. lol.
  21. yeah your batteries will drain quick on the tiny as hell alt you have. I have a 270 amp alt with a s3400 and 4 d3100's and have two 300 amp fuses in line from my rear battery bank to the two positive power wires that go to the 5.0k. Then i have a 80 amp fuse on my 4ga wire that goes to the 175.4. My voltage only get down if i slam full tilt at idle which i never do but did just to see how much of a load that my alt can take and let me tell you, that thing is bomb proof. With all the batteries i have, i only drop to like the mid to low 13's when i go full tilt at idle and id say im probably like 120-150 amps at idle, if that. You really should think about maybe some more d3400's or get some 3100's instead. How long do you drive around for anyways just to get an idea on how much battery power you will be draining? also you really should do the big-3 upgrade when you do the install so you dont draw all the current from that little alt charge wire that comes from the factory
  22. Steve, just use the haters as influence. I know its hard but there are always those envious little bitches with every person's success. Those envious people are great for shoving coal up their ass to make it urn into diamonds because of how uptight they are. lmao. You are just a big figure into the car audio world and because of that it makes you more of a central target to morons who will not take the chance to know about who you really are and what you really do but would rather start shit to try and ruin your reputation. Honestly i have never met you but i am hoping one day to take a vacation to Cali and maybe go to stockton to see Psyph unless he is at the shop as well as yourself. I cant remember how i first learned about you Steve but i am so glad i did because from looking at your youtube videos and the forum i have learned so much about car audio, fabrications, electronics and random stuff. Though there are times i hate going on here because of a select few people whose names will not be mentioned always start a damn fight with me which is hilarious because i am a no name lmao. Either way just let the haters keep hating, the shit talkers talking and keep doing what you do. You are not a failure and are someone id love to be like one day for both knowledge and in the career field. edit: it would also be badass to stop by the D'amore headquarters and maybe even by CHP but i doubt i will get let into CHP. lol.
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