kirill007

fiberglassing means using resin and fiberglass... 2x4's are a easy way to brace, but they obstruct airflow, find the thickest wooden dowels and use those as braces. Its a cheap and easy way.

Then why did you say u wanted headroom in you're fusing? You recomended 250 amps,and both amps won't ever pull more then 200amps, so a 200amp fuse would be more "headroom" If it's real 2 guage i would use a 200 amp fuse.

Is you're power wire atleast 0 guage? Because i wouldn't put 250amp fuse on 4 guage wiring it will burn.

Upgrade the alternator to a decent amperage.(220-250amps) don't get alts which are too cheap , they are most of the time unrelaible and wont do rated power.

Just make sure you get a 6 or 6.5cu ft box NET, this means after all displacements.(subs,port,bracing)

And what size subs? Is the 9cu ft NET or gross?

What oil do you mean? For the transmission? Then u need 10w30 or 10w40. If it's the other oil you need 2-stroke oil, which is combustable. Castrol TTS is a good oil if u have that one in the region, or castrol RS.

BTL doesn't likes to be in a sealed box.. Ported box only. Don't try to cram in 2 18's, if people say the trunk is tiny, 1 18 probably won't fit properly.

I don't know why bluray would be needed for a car. Normal dvd quality is good enough for a 10-17 inch screen. And audiovox makes Jensen equipment..

Reason to put the eq to flat is because you don't use a EQ to boost freqeuncies, only turn them down. So if u are boosting freqeuncies you're doing it wrong.

lol its not actually isobaric, its a fail. Its just two sealed boxes together... Lots of cancellation.

This thread is full of fail... (mixing speakers isn't good, frequency response will be different in a bad way.. you can get cancelling, which means some freqeuncies are much quiter) Southnash, if u are a believer of QUALITY over QUANTITY, then why even bother using rear speakers? I would only do speakers in the front, use good quality ones get a good amp to drive them, position and install them properly.(stock locations aren't the best places most of the time, and you need some deadening to make it sound decent and have enough midbass.)

if you're lucky.. But only if i know 100% sure i would do it, and maybe ask anyone else of your friends because sometimes you can be blinded.

I think you're shocks are worn... And if it says that u need to mount them normal, then don't mount them upside down. And i don't know if those are the correct springs, did u take ones that accounted for 400 pounds extra?

On lower power the DC XL is louder then the lvl5. So if u have less then 3.5k i would keep the xl, it's louder.

dont do it. If u add 200 more watts you wont hear the difference,only meter it. But the chance of blowing things up will be much higher

dont do it. If u add 200 more watts you wont hear the difference,only meter it. But the chance of blowing things up will be much higher

He finally posts useful information. I'm proud. You actually weren't a full on douchebag I'm proud Lulz..thanks..I think? FUCKING THANK YOU!! Can I participate in that bet too? I don't see how I could loose bahaha Refer below Correct Are you being serious or sarcastic? Serious

He got it from the stickied thread from SSA i think. (yes ford302 i also think xD) good info That's because sensitivity is measured at 1000hz, so if it's lower it sometimes means it will play louder down low.(higher is the opposite like you have mentioned )

More people who have anything to say about it? HOw important is it? (although the quote hdorre uses sums it quite up)

So guys what's you're look on sensitivity?

How important is the sensitivity on subwoofers? (because i thought it was measured at 1khz.) (only correct answers please, if u don't know for sure then don't answer.)

Option 1 (because in 90%(made up number offcourse) of the cases it will be louder.)

Is this a SUv? a trunk car? a hatchback? more info please

Cmon do you really believe it puts out 1700 "decent" watts RMS? for 180 bucks? ><