skittlesRgood

that is probably not the crossover. it acts like an parametric EQ. so it will peak at 63hz. at least thats how mine seems to work.

lol no but i figured some one would question it after i looked at it.

the terminals on the speaker was the problem area for me and my friend so i would start with that. take them both out, still plugged in, and turn the car on. if the noise is gone then that was the problem. i suppose you could connect one lead from a DMM to a speaker wire at the amp and the other lead to the chassis and see if you get a reading.

speaker wire grounding out. could be the speaker terminal in the door or in the wire. ive heard that noise a couple times and that was it each time. 1st time sent my GF running out of the car is terror.

oohhh, you didnt figure out the double nut?

lol exactly what he said he didnt want to do in the 1st post

just to check, you do know that this idea will make a weaker connection than cutting down the 8awg right? i mean, it shouldnt make a difference but it is weaker. because with a curved surface only 2 points will touch, the top and bottom. the easiest solution would be to just use 10awg. my buddy uses 10awg on his SD12k. if it can take that im sure you wont have ANY problem.

1st off, what sounds "clean" about that? lol second, if you do anything with a threaded rod, or bolt, remember that you will want a perfectly round end to go into the terminals. the threads will take away a lot of contact and if you grind them off and you have any bumps or dips in the rod now, it will also rob you of contact area.

sure, here ya go lol but seriously, just cut them down until you can fit both wires in. they couldnt make a terminal like you described because the 2 larger pieces would touch each other, or be able to rotate and risk touching.

sure, but probably not AT AR. unless i move back to cali.

damn, too bad your on the east side of iowa. im getting my oscope sent to me next week. i would have let you use it.

1st recone? remember to take your shims out before you get the dustcap on

hmm... stolen system? i dont know anyone that leaves wires in the amp like that. probably cut on the other end.

that depends on how low it drops. anything in the low 12v would start to worry me. that alt probably doesnt have much output at idle. a second alt with better idle output would be good. or just replace that iraggi with something like the DC 270xp. they put out close to 200amps at idle

we will see how bored i am tomorrow... well ok ill be very bored... we will see how lazy i am tomorrow

eh, i would but i dont have my half an RCA with me and its after midnight lol.

the amps i have didnt have a master/slave switch so i dont know about option 1. i just split the RCAs to each amp and gain match. thats the way i recommend doing it. here are some pro's and cons i have experienced. running the amps separate yields higher efficiency. if you use the remote gain knob with the amp then its easier to strap them so you just have that one knob to play with. but that is easy fixed with a knob that goes inline with the RCAs, darvex.com sells them. thats all i got.

you know, i hear this a lot but i dont understand how voltage is affected. seems to me it would be the same as the power wire off a battery, same voltage no mater how many wires you have.

ya, 600w will be fine on stock electrical.

but wait, iraggi is one of those ebay companies. ok, more glorified than that these days but a year ago, definitely. OP i would listen to mechman. he isnt trying to sell you anything, he is just giving you his expert opinion. and i have read his BIOS, dude has a ton of experience.

lol or as i like to call it, the manual fuse.

with 6 cubes you will have a lot of impedance rise so electrical wont be a problem. you will probably get 600w out of that amp in that box. but since the box is big, it will be more efficient. basically, running at 13.8v is the least of your worries for power.

fuck bass blockers. use the HPF on the amp. set it to 80hz and you wont have a problem. the bass blocker is doing the exact same thing as the crossover on the amp. except that the amp's crossover is better. you can hear clipping with test tones. play a 100hz tone and turn it up until you hear them change pitch. this vid should help

thats what im going off of. but does it really matter? i explained both ways.

there are not 3 ways to wire one DVC sub. a 2ohm DVC sub can be wired to 1ohm or 4ohm. series doubles resistance, parallel cuts it in half. with two subs, you wire them in series (4ohm) then parallel them together for 2ohm. you can get amps rated for 2ohm so budget isnt really a problem. the guy that said wiring the subs to 1ohm then connecting them to the amp would give you 2ohm is wrong. it would give you .5ohm. cause everything is in parallel. a higher ohm load is more efficient and has better SQ. not that we tend to care about those things around here