Superjay

nice choice. the inside looks great. The outside looks like my Grandma's house in Haleyville.

I almost always run large wire under the Tahoe...Very rare that I don't. Waterproof conduit is the best choice for you, but if you wrap it in techflex and/or split loom and secure the cable as high as possible next to a frame rail (away from gas lines) you should be fine.

on that note...you can get a T3 T.200 for about the same price as the Infinity...PM or email Ed for SMD member pricing

SQ isn't subjective, the interrupting is subjective. That's two different things. it's completely subjective. I know what I like, but you may hate the way a non-pressed slurried paper cone sounds. you may prefer a poly cone or an aluminum cone. you may hate the way an infinite baffle setup sounds. you may hate an aperiodic enclosure. I hate ported enclosures...hate them. but that may be what you like, and the tonality is what you want. that's totally subjective. the only objective part is "does this sub play this range of frequencies?" that's it. everything else is all subjective

30Hz? my midbass play to 30Hz...a real SQ sub will play down to 10Hz

SQ is totally subjective. it's not something you can measure on paper. you have to hear it for yourself. Anyway, it's not as important with a sub as it is with a mid or tweeter...what you need to look for is a sub that will play LOW low..like 14Hz low...and you're going to have trouble finding a sub like that in your price range.

02 Altima...amp under rear deck, crosovers at speakers...amp sending full range signal to each speaker. you can jump the output from the head unit (8wires coming from the front) to the speaker wires coming out of the amp (there are 16 of them)

this.....

2010 and up they cut corners to save a few pennies here and there. The amps got better, but the subs suffered. i don't like the way the speaker engineer does things...he doesn't give two shits about car audio so kinda phones things in. before the June release of 2010 product I was heavily involved with design development and production...after I left they stopped batch testing. I'll still use their amps, but not the speakers or subs anymore.

if you want them tuned lower you can lengthen the port to 16 inches...oddly, just 2 inches lowers it to about 31Hz....below that and they sound like crap

I wrote that manual...when they changed the sub they didn't change the manual...that's why I gave you the RIGHT specs on that sub

Kxm should be eighty point nine zero one

I might have a little experience with them. you can make that 14 deep. use a 6 inch port, 14 deep to tune to 41Hz. Revc - 2.5-Ohm F0 - 26.089Hz Sd - 860.490cm^2 Krm - 471.858 uOhm Erm - 1.209 Kxm - 80.901 mH Exm - 0.546 Vas - 112.237 Cms - 106.748 uM/N Mmd - 334.116g Mms - 348.630g BL - 18.521TM Qms - 3.507 Qes - 0.416 Qts - .0372 No - 0.463% SPLo - 88.671dB

I've been everything from busboy to general manager. i was in food service until the day i got pissed at a customer for his constant bitching, threw his food across the dining room, threw his bill at him and told him to pay and GTFO...that's when i knew it was time to install full time

below f3 of a vented enclosure causes the sub to flap in the box A LOT...it's unloaded and can lead to massive overheating

it's fine...it won't arc from there as long as there's no grounded metal in the light assembly (there usually is not since the cases are plastic)

it's fine...it happens. if you smell it there might be an issue with too much power or dirty signal, but heat is a natural byproduct of electricity

get a job installing...learn everything you can about every aspect of the BUSINESS side of it, while also learning about the vehicles...pick up all the tips and tricks you can about all the different systems. learn how to design an enclosure based on woofer specs, and how to PROPERLY wire a vehicle (SQ style, not SPL style)...aesthetics are everything for you. get MECP certified, and continue on up to the master level get to know your reps. Go to manufacturer shows and get to know the tech people at these shows. NETWORK during this time GET A DEGREE...even if it's just an associates degree, BA/BS is better...business degree works fine, if you want to go into product development get an engineering degree, even if it's an EET from devry or ITT Tech...you will NEED a degree to get in the door of a manufacturer. After a few years in school and installing start talking to your reps about moving on to work for a manufacturer. They know when companies are looking...we tell our reps we are looking and to find someone GOOD and qualified from the large pool of installers..unfortunately, most installers are tweakers or potheads and i dont' want them...I want the responsible, educated dedicated guys. If you have what it takes the reps will let you know who is looking and will give you a recommendation. This is where your network helps...you already know most of the people you will be working with (the next starting point is tech support...USE YOUR TECH SUPPORT SERVICES...this is how you get to know them) You work your way up from there. having the degree gets you ahead faster. The MECP cert (no matter what any of you think) shows you are willing to study as well as learn on the job. DEI is hiring MECP Advanced and masters EXCLUSIVELY for tech support.

I'd call RF to find out what that knob controls...I don't know

not all companies' amps are like this...i know for SURE that Powerbass amps are like this, and the knob controls the gain only. and only to the point of the master on the amp

what does the knob control? gain or bass boost? personally, I never use bass boost because it adds gain typically leading to clipping. if it controls gain then it will typically override your gain knob on the amp...although some will only control the gain UP TO the point you have the master on the amp set to

this, you can find one at any good electronics store, or online also, running for 10+ hours you'll need a stronger power supply than 75A...I use 2 100A Audio Authority power supplies and 4 group 32 batteries. The reason for overkill is that I need to be sure an anomaly isn't the fault of my power...one thing I can check off my list. Voltage is stable at 14.9V head units aren't clean. A tone generator can be had for about $200 for a CLEAN signal. I also only use PRO AUDIO amplifiers...preferably GH class. This means Crown or QSC. My bench is expensive, but I know anomalies are from the speaker. Your baffle should be an entire sheet of 9 ply birch, with a hole for interchangeable baffle plates. To be able to test everything I make the baffle plate 20x20 or 24x24. You will want to reinforce the entire sheet like a house wall...or it will flex significantly. again...remove any chance of anomaly from your equipment.

SuperJay already did that, even told him to get it checked out at a Dealer and let me know what he comes up with and I will see what I can do to help, I kept my cool with him and vented to you guys lol that's what we're here for

this is when a cool head will always prevail...show the customer EXACTLY what you did and the parts you (or your employees) put your hands on. Then show him the part that's making noise, and what to do to fix it. A whining pump usually means low fluid, so sell him a bottle with a smile. If that doesn't fix it, don't charge him for it. $3 to get him to shut the fuck up and keep him as a customer...this will also help him keep in mind you know what the hell you're talking about so he will tend to not blame you in the future.

T.200-8 works really well in a new Mustang door as a kick ass midbass...will drop to 35Hz with just 2 layers of deadener (outer skin and inner skin, 1 layer each), fill the holes with masonite...you can drop the 8's in and the window still rolls down. No cutting required. 1/2" MDF ring with clay between the ring and door. plays 35Hz-250Hz very very well. Then add a 5.25" or 4" coax in the kick or pillar on-axis, HPF at about 225Hz...SERIOUS up front deep and loud. add a 15 or 18 in the back on a brickwall at 50Hz and you have a groundpounder that is a serious contender...SQ style SPL winner