Superjay

I see no ads Superjay from Sound Domain forums?! one and the same...I'm still an asshole (like I am there) but here I actually represent a company so I'm going to behave myself.

wait...there's more than a prison in Delano?

I have a few 3000 watt RMS amps left. They were samples from a company I was trying to get started. They are an established build house out of China that wanted to come into the US market. Because there is no warranty (new amps) and I don't have replacements I'm willing to part with it for $400 shipped. Paypal only. It will come with a birth sheet of actual power (some of it is written in Chinese)

even pros forget about it. they usually forget about it, but since you had it done at a shop take it back there, explain the issue and ask them to take care of it. If they find that it's something they didn't do, then pay them for their time (probably $20 or so) for troubleshooting it, and go home and fix it, or pay them to fix it.

well, guess you should have thought of that. with modern head units putting out 11-15 watts per channel those gains should be about a quarter of the way up...most come cranked to max from the factory. or worse...not matched

your LOC should have gain control on it. adjust it down.

shouldn't be that large a drain with that amp. check your grounds. check the amp for parasitic draw.

Griz has redesigned a lot in the line...he's done a great job with it, especially redesigning the reference line of amps that made them so famous back in the day. very well done. Good equipment, and great support from griz and brandon. The rest of Epsilon is meh, but Soundstream is quality stuff

I see no ads

if they're not unloading you don't need to change anything

are they unloading now?

either tune the enclosure lower, or go sealed then

using test tones and the subsonic filter OFF find where your enclosure unloads (when the subs are essentially just flapping in the enclosure because it won't pressurize the port) and tune the filter about 3-5hz above that.

Vossen is in Miami...I know people there, I'll see what I can do to get you in contact with them

the active shutter glasses give me a headache

the attenuated output is 3dB quieter. use this if the tweeters scream at you, and are just overpowering...or if they shut off from the MOV protection circuit too often.

how many of you youngsters actually had (or played, or have seen in real life) the original NES? you guys have no idea how frustrating it is to want to play your favorite game only time find the contacts are corroded or dusty, and you have to disassemble the whole thing just to clean it. blowing only goes so far.

I'm [paying $15 a month for 3 3D channels...sports in 3D is cool, but not cool enough for me to keep the channels. i wish I'd saved the extra $500 on my 3D TV, and $400 on my 3D bluray player...and spent it on an LCD for the bedroom.

from either the amplifier OR head unit outputs, wire to the INPUT of the crossover. wire the mid to WF wire the tweeter to TW. you can choose flat output, or attenuated output. wire the neg to the - terminal, and the + to either the 0dB or -3dB terminal, depending on YOUR preference. Try both

this. there is also the issue of condensation if you don't warm them slowly. you can get moisture buildup on the VC's. water damage is bad. Same goes for your HU. especially touch screens. if you have a remote start...USE IT. if not...GET ONE. 5-10 minutes before climbing into the car will make a world of difference

oddly, directechs does not have the audio wire colors for that car...sorry. But, yes, take the radio out of the car to test it. check the fuses, like baker said, and, if it's a Pioneer, check that the resistor isn't blown (it can and does happen)...if it is, bypass it to test the radio.

I had this issue several times when i first started car audio. Here is the simplest thing in my opinion. The red wire goes from the radio to the positive side of the battery. The yellow wire will go from the radio, to a switch, then to the positive side of the battery. If you think you will have an issue with leaving the radio on when you get out, then wire it to a fuse that cuts off with the car. But I like the switch b/c if you go to a car show, or a parking lot, you can leave the radio on without leaving your keys in your car. Then lastly, run the black wire from the radio to a ground in the car, or the negative side of the battery. One more FYI tidbit, do not run the wires through the door jams. Drill a hole in the firewall, then run the wires through the hole. Make sure you use a grommet on the hole, or cover the wires in split loom. Here is a diagram that might help you out. you got that backward....yellow is constant, red is switched. @OP - what kind of car...year, model, make, trim level...I'll tell you exactly which wires you need to use. If you can't find a constant signal the fuse is probably blown (this happens when thieves cut the ground and power at the same time)

no need. as long as the holder can handle the high current (some are rated lower than others due to heat) you can take the plastic off them, or just bent the tabs a little and stack them directly. i've been doing it this way for years without issue, as long as you have a solid connection for them.

the front to back run will have 2 fuses in it...one 12" from the front battery, and one 12" from the back battery. NO ISOLATOR

stay away from 300A fuses...you can weld with them. ANL are slow blow and it actually takes about 750A to blow them. use 2 150A stacked.