t-money

lol im sure i could have but it was all underage. had some tryin to talk at me but i was all about audio that night. i wanna continue to be able to do it u know

went to a parking lot the other night and my boy moe started filming a distance test and we ended up drawing a crowd from the taco bell next door lol

its been fine for 3 months or so at .5 if you believe that the amp sees .5 at all times while playing music, you must be insane. only reason that amp has been working (and probably the reason why its not working right now) is because of box rise No kranny im not stupid. im just saying it has been fine for 3 or 4 months and nothing has been changed. voltage is good and coils arent burnt. so that leads me to believe it is the amp as the amp was never designed to be ran at .5 nominal impedance.

i've been having the same problem with a jl 500/1 amp.. everything checks out fine. but when u turn it a little to loud it will shut off, then cut back on once u turn it down.. if u find the answer please post it. i really think its the amp dieing. no dead spots in the coil, no harmful voltage drop, that amp wasnt designed for .5 nominal straight up. what sub and coils do you have

its been fine for 3 months or so at .5

the coils are dead on .5 ohm. voltage stays in the 14's. but the amp goes into protect then if u turn it down a little bit it comes back on. i think its the amp. i have looked at it personaly thats all i can come up with

u are only getting 5 volts to from the battery to the cap? clean the terminals and replace the inline fuse

holy hell thats a beast

he dosent need it. MOST computer controlled cars can charge at 16 with no issues as long as u have batteries that can take it. u only need a step down when u go up to 18 volt

Would you mind explaining what all this does? Not that i doubt u but knowledge would be great it changes the crank time to a 1 second crank instead of the 0.6 sec crank time that is default. a bit writer is the easy way but if u are not an installer chances are you dont have one so this is the old school way. i have the exact same alarm too.

ok open the door. turn the key on and then off again. hold the button down on the antanna. you will hear one chirp, two chirps, and three chirps. then let off the button and then press it 3 times then hold. (push, let off, push let off, push let off, push and hold.) it will chirp 3 times. while holding the button push lock on your remote till it chirps 3 times then let off everything and turn the ignition on and your done

it is set up for 4 but u can run 0 with some reducers

i think that car takes a 75 series battery right? call xs they can tell u what will fit

i have checked several phones with o-scope just cuz i was bored. and all of them put out a hideously nasty signal even at low volume. cd or USB is the way to go

i think its nice to see the x getting some long over due electrical upgrades

Your avvy. DAMN. But Damn Steve, shit looks awesome! haha lol whats up man hey u live in pitt. i used to and had some friends graduate from pitt last year

HEY MEADE! real mature asshole. lol jk bro thats tight. find a new lot and burn out the letters SMD lol

if it does 3k clean then it will do 1k clean right? so either use a clam and a dmm. or tune it buy ear. u should be able to have an idea of when enough is enough

y dont u just get a aq hdc3? it can take it. i have the aq 2200 on mine

Clicky

hey steve pm me about a problem with my dd-1 bro

still fucking great tho

contact fix my speaker.com

he has a bunch of songs. some are ok some are epic lol