LordArcane

Well Just ordered my IM-SG to complete my set, now i'll have the dd-1 cc-1 and the im-sg

entered

Info on the production date?

Well just tested my sub amp and no continuity between the main amp ground and the inside pole or outside shield on the amp so guess i been running the right one (twisted). lol little confused but think i got the just of it Edit: power off on car, all rca's unplugged from amp, - lead from dim to ground block, + lead tested both inside pole and out side ring on input rca's on amp, dimm set to continuity.

waiting for my check to come yet, but can't wait to complete my set, can't wait to tinker around with my drives and see their real numbers in my box in my car

now you made me do the math lol and wow $0.20 per watt on my amp. paid $280 for it and it does 1401 rms. not bad now that i think about it like that puts higher priced amps seem more affordable.

can't wait for eta to be posted, or pre-order.

i got dd-1 and cc-1 but i'm around grand rapids area :/

ok a normal stock step up with you car running should sit at around 14.4v's (this does not make it a 14v system) a 14v system uses a battery that rests at around 14v's and charges around 16v. honestly if you really want a good answer pm or email xspower they will tell you just what you need and maybe explain it to you in terms anyone would understand not trying to sound like a dick, just saying go to someone that deals with it all day to get the best answer. they deal with it all for a reason, they know what they are doing

lol, and ya box behind the door panel can be and has been done, don't know any builds showing it right off hand but i plan on doing a sealed for some 8s when that time comes

nice, i could use that in my cavalier!

Ya but not everyone wants to go out and measure... I don't mind measuring I just think it's a good idea to have since some of their competitors have it. It's a way to attract more less-knowledgeable customers. i also think its good idea, was hard finding right size for wifes car ended up emailing them and they got back to me same day, but an app would make it very simple to find out

pretty sure 03 jeep gc. is same as my kj and that would be a d3400 group 34 battery

honestly its better on your seals, in a way it kind of reconditions them. just like the max life oils and what not them are all semi or full synth oil.

if synth already in it then you just change as normal. i just added the extra info just in case still had non synth oil in the motor. and i agree pc in pic looks bad ass

won't be a problem, if anything it will help your motor last little longer if non snyth was in it befor. only thing you want to do when switch is change it sooner the first few times to help get out the old non synth oil. i myself switched soon as i got my jeep, i use lucas full synth and love it. also doesn't hurt to drop little more on a better filter. your local oil change place can prolly tell you how often you should change it when your first switching over. in any case synth will help lube older motor and keep them running better also helps newer motors last little longer. they also say you can go longer between oil changes once its fully switched over but i still go every 3k miles.

another side note why i would use the rca knob over oe, if your running say 2 sub amps you could control both very easy with one knob. thats my thinkin anyways

i would say it depens what you are looking for the knob to do. the rca is going to control the volts going to your amp, in turn going to better control the level of out put i would think. but some oe knobs do other stuff like 0- +12 db at a certain freq. i myself would prolly use the rca one and plan too. anyways i'm sure others can better explain this

whats wrong with that isnt that how most amps are... all the ones i have had are Phillips is just so much easier. Having to have two different sizes anytime you want to mess with the amp with the Alan. phillops strip out much easier tho. i'd much rather have alans make sure my wires are nice and tight with having to worry as much of them stripping out on me

LMAO that was great

thats just for easier wiring you can use just one + and one - and still get the same power. alot of people get confused that a mono amp and 2 + and 2 - posts, its mostly to make it easier to wire more then one speaker to them. having dumb moment so i forgot if the posts are in series or parallel

What impedance are you trying to accomplish? How low is the amp stable at? that could go as low as 1/4 ohm. OR 1 ohm, 4 ohm, or 16 ohm no offence to the op but if hes having to ask how to wire them then he shouldn't be going as low as .25 ohm and i'm going to make a safe guess his amp would not handle it and 16 ohms his subs would prolly be seeing very little power, so hes left with the most common 1 and 4 ohm wiring, what 12volt.com will show him.

just make sure your amp is 1 ohm stable and your all set

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp go there it will tell you