83GT50

Techtonics!

The rapidfires are an awesome plug! just go with that..honestly, plugs wont make much of a difference depending on what all is upgraded on your truck performance wise..your still sending it the same power..if you upgraded to MSD 6al or something similar it might make a difference. That is what im running in my Mustang.

It doesnt matter if its an auto or a manual. It has nothing to do with your trans. Just wire it up according to the instructions and bingo.

do a sr20det swap And the reason they put the l16 head on the l20 is probably to up the compression. The z24 was a good engine for me..i liked those, but they were hell to do a timing chain on..You should post up some pics, specifically that 510..my favorite datsun of all time

Those are wonderful prices, i got dual 3" to flowmaster 40's dumped at the axle for 200 bucks with the friend discount..

man, i sure hope you have money, and fabrication skill...plus all the tools. That is going to be a bitch haha, You are going to have to really beef up the frame and suspension, plus all the wiring, a heavy duty rear end, big breaks...etc..but that would be crazy as hell. And i really wouldnt doubt the 34 mpg..Diesels are pretty efficient, especially in a small suv im sure.

The jettas are awesome, i would lean toward a manual one with the 2.0 aba motor or the 2.8 VR6. The automatics like to go haywire in them (lots of electrical problems in the auto trannys) Other then that the 2.0 aba and the VR6 are an awesome motor, especially the VR6 (great torque and great acceleration) I used to own a 1985 Rabbit GTI, Several bugs, and a 1987 Jetta with a 2.0 Aba swap. Great cars..

Eh..depends, a head gasket really isnt a big job. Seeing as you have a blazer it probably has the v6. You would need to replace both gaskets, and just to be extra safe i would take the heads to a machine shop and get them checked, and rebuilt..it will save you a headache down the road. The only special tool i would see you needing is a torque wrench and a spec manual on the blazer so you can get those heads torqued down right. Hope that helps.

Hold the RPM's steady at about 2500 and have a friend listen to your top and bottom end, also have him feel the top and bottom end, If its bottom end its prob a rod bearing, top end is either a broken lifter or some lifter noise which can probably be solved with a good adjustment. And as for your car dying, that kind of goes along with my rod bearing belief..same thing happened with my buddies escort GT. It really sounds like a rod bearing to me..

i dont even know what to say about this..=/

You could drop a 350 in there without changing the tranny, from what i have heard (correct me if im wrong) the 350 and the 4.3 Vortec have the same bell housing pattern. Im a ford guy..so im not to certain on that. Do some searching maybe.

Cut the airbox, its free and it will breathe better...but it looks ghetto (but it is a little noticeable). And like a few others said, go to pull n save or whatever and get the supercharged engine out of a bonneville or a GTP and the wiring harness, those are a pretty aggressive little car from factory.

Do the 408 Stroker, you wont be dissapointed. But if you cant afford that, a good cam a set of aluminum heads, intake, and the right carb would bring that horsepower up quite a bit.

It really depends on the size of engine imo. If you have a 4cyl they kind of rely on back pressure (well, atleast the bugs i built did). V8's like an open, less restrictive exhaust. Sounds sweet though, i love the 4.6 MOD engine, i have a 1983 Mustang GT with the 5.0 dual 3 inch to flow masters and some other "lil" performance goodies

Get a weber carb, the mazda b series carbureted were a nightmare. Get a weber, and get rid of all the smog. You might even check the fuse panel, look for the fuse that says "engine" next to it, see if that one popped (happened to me when i had the stock carb, wouldnt idle)