Torres

razor blade is your best bet imo. the stuff isn't that hard to cut. dremel is a dumb idea (sorry purple lol). you'll most likely slice into the surround accidentally. any kind of solution there may be to take off the great stuff is going to eat at the surround as well like skittles said

NO

do you have a '1' in the extra baffle box?

not even cool...it's been about time for plenty of updates

so, what? you think you're cool now? haha jp. that's baller status

*facepalm* google google google. it won't bite you lol http://world.needforspeed.com/ i liked playing split second. fun game with some innovative features in it. really nice graphics too

say you have a box. port length is 10" long. that's the actual port length. one baffle at .75" makes the physical port length now 9.25". the baffle accounts for the missing .75" still making the actual port length 10". now say you have 4 baffles at .75" each (totaling 3"). now the physical port length is 7" while the added thicknesses of the baffles accounts for the missing 3" of the port. still accounting for the actual 10" of port. so physical port length is the length the actual wood of the port needs to be. effective port length is the port length entered into the port length box.

google sketchup is easy to use. here's a tutorial with the helpful search button http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/40479-enclosure-designing-tutorial/page__p__575270__hl__google%20sketchup%20tutorial__fromsearch__1entry575270 here's another showing how to build flared aero ports http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/12322-sketchup-tutorial/page__p__191484__hl__google%20sketchup%20tutorial__fromsearch__1entry191484

o...m...g brazilian women are the best. that girl in the white top and blue shorts...OW OW!

^^ yep, then you just adjust the actual depth the router goes to in order to get the flat surface. takes a few more passes at that desired depth

make sure to angle the hell out of the port at the exit. help the air flow out a lil more smoothly

LOL you were supposed to hold the paper still silly. hahahaha thank you for this. it made me literally lol and facepalm at the same time. i had to read his post twice to make sure i read it right lol. makes me wonder if he should be trying to paint a laptop

are you networking to them from your computer with ctrl+alt+delete? bahahah

coming out of the relay, you could do it either way. i'd split them up closer to the amps rather than by the relay or running 3 whole wires to the amps

i generally tune my boxes from 33-36 hz

reason is some pretty good shit too. i tried it but it was way over my head.

yep it's sold. thanks jbaby! i forgot to check your name that was in paypal, and i forgot the full sn on here, so it's sent to 'smd member' lol. sorry

i didn't know you had an account over here. i've watched the build over at customdakotas. awesome to see you get some credit for your badass work. congrats

what's the cheapest one I can get that isn't complete garbage? $50 is about what I would like to pay, maybe $60... good luck trying to find one for that price. and an O-Scope is the only true way to tune your system to know whether you are clipping or not. 12/14 on your phone volume doesn't matter, your head unit will clip after a certain volume level on it, even if your phone is only 12/14.. Just because you don't hear distortion, doesn't mean you're not clipping. thank you for saying this. i was going to say the same thing. volume or gain 'position' has nothing to do with output. just because a gain is turned 'half up' does not mean it's 'half as loud' or could be twice as loud if turned more or whatever. preout voltage determines gain position. higher pre out voltage from the head unit equals less gain, and less pre out voltage equals more gain. results are the same however regardless of position. if your phone is on 12 out of 14 on volume, and when it's any higher you can actually hear distortion, then chances are you're distorting at your 12/14 volume, you just can't hear it. only way to tell is with an o-scope. and 200 dollars is cheap for an o-scope, so good luck on getting one for 60 bucks that actually does decent readings. the base o-scope is good enough for audio (the $200 kind). they can get as pricey as several thousands of dollars.

glad to see this bumped productively instead of a new person with 1 post quoting 100 pics to say 'hey nice' hahaha. no but really...wheels look good and i'm anxious to see it painted

just a little bump is all

there's some around me and up to dayton ohio. that'd be about your 4 - 5 hour limit. more like 3.5 - 4 hours. centerville and fairfield. i gotta remember to request off for carl casper. i missed it last year

second skin > dynamat > fatmat. i'll never use fatmat again

YEZZIR!!! they're starting to take them off shelves here now so i've been stocking up 14 there, and i found two more in my truck the next day lol. wish i had em for the pic. going to look for some places that still have some. bought two stores out so far haha

i just got a tingle picturing that shop filled with all kinds of equipment. congrats!