98crewcab

lol, yea, as a blowthrough, I have 64 1/2" to work with

every thing in the box labeled with L x W is box. the port is everything unmarked........

break it down to rectangles and squares. the angled part make a square and divide it by 2 to get that volume. give me a minute to draw up something to explain........... ok, excuse the crude drawing....something quick. L X W for each "box", then L X W for the imaginary box (angled one) then divide by two. add up all your square inches and multiply by your highth to get your volume by cubic inches. divide by 1728 to get your cubic ft. hope this helps

alrighty then raytard, smooth start, and back to boomin soon thanks for your help yesterday here are some teaser pics from the start, once I get some more materials, will start the build log my 12 year old daughter, inside the port...... my 3 year olds new playhouse....another port pic made my own "jasper jig" next to 2 liter of dew for comparison......hoping for a little :hairtrick: front baffle, 2 1/4"

are you serious.....why didn't I know you had this. lol, just paid $97.35 for one. should be here today or monday.....dammit mane! and, why did you have these? did you do a blowthrough on your last ride?

man, that t port idea sounds awesome. didnt really want to port out of the box, and didnt even cross my mind that I could do it your way. thanks tons bro. that solved a few problems.

what up homies.........thanks for looking in on this. Building a new enclosure today and have a couple questions. Appreciate any feedback. its for my 4 type r 12's. Blowthrough that is double baffle 1 1/8" mdf (2 1/4"), back is 1 7/8", and sides, top, and bottom are all doubled up 3/4". designing some bracing and will end up with 9.2 cubes after displacement of subs and port. Internal measurements are 61 5/8 wide, 16 tall, and depending on your input, will figure out depth. I am running about 750 rms to each sub if that helps. my questions are... 1. can I run part of my port in the box, and let whatever remaining length I need run out of the box? Inverting subs, so can design to look good with them (only thinking this because I cant go deep enough to get a 21 ish port length without raising my box volume.... 2. and with 120sq" of port, 9.2 cubes internal volume, what length does my port need to be to get 34hz? I really appreciate your help and will be starting a build log soon.

Cant say that I agree with the "BK is no good" crowd tonight. Filed 3 years ago, with $25K of debt, home foreclosure, and repo'ed truck. all due to bad end of previous marriage. long story. but after the BK, re established credit with home depot card that I have for my business. pay it off after every job and credit is in the 700's again already. We got prequalified for our home loan and even with a BK, still got approved and with a pretty decent interest. Just be prepared to make some life changes to always be positive on your bills. BK is a one time get out of jail free card. good luck homie

I really thought someone would have chimed in by now bro.....IMO, since you already have your power runs from your alts to your + front batt, then to the rear +, should be fine as is. cant imagine much of a voltage gain with more dedicated power wire going straight to the back...........

I absolutely love my R's just waiting on tax return to do some electrical upgrading, then putting 2 BXi2610's to them New enclosure coming soon as well, ask marlow stanfield about an enclosure for your 12, may be happy with the right box, The X's seemed a little over priced for me. I bought my R's for $200 a pair.....

LMAO.........dog doin the pig is killin me nice work Dunk- oh so pretty

found it to be quite a bit easier than I initially thought. just remember that if you have your enclosure come into your cab at all, to allow for flexing between the cab and bed. with my 1 ton, only had to give about an inch around the box bigger on the cab side (heavy frame less flex) the boot logan has ^^ would do you tons of good with a couple tubes of silicone. nice to have all the boom and all the room in your truck too bad you have to get rid of that console, beautiful work mane!

damn Steve......damn! hoe's looking clean

Happy birthday big dog!!!

you should be pretty close to being able to dial in the 3sixties now huh? you tuning it before Vegas?

thats a good thing....love getting out of the truck with ringing ears. dont notice it till you turn the key to the off position and think your phone is ringing-lol. does the bass help break up the high frequencies or is it all just incredibly TOO loud?

cool man cool - you know how to reach me when you are ready. looking forward to the Vegas pics!!!

damn Steve, this thing just keeps getting better.........love the 8's in the doors. still gathering the funds to get my doors started. you throwing those P1s up for sale anytime soon? and have you ever found out anything else as far as your paint if we did your doors? (shaving them and your rear)

name of said place....to keep me from buying from the same guy? amp shopping soon.............. never mind.....read title again-lol

thats how I started out......but you are limited to where you work, cant work for more than $500 materials and labor....and I dont think you can do much electrical. I only worked for people I trusted. watch out for those bids with people you dont know. will get a free ride to jail for bidding illegaly. I would actually recommend not wasting the money on a business license, as you can work without a license for $500 or less anyways. all the business license does is cost you annually. Its only benifit was that I could add a license number to my advertising, but then too many people were misguided thinking it was a contractors license and would say I was lying. they would type my BUSINESS license number into the cslb website, and because it WAS NOT a contractor license it would come up wrong.....drama, and bullshit for $150 a year and a way to monitor your income....or at least try to. lol

cake walk. http://www.trucknvans.com/CRL-Slider-to-Sl...-p/ed5381rl.htm above is where you can get the boot to seal it. measure 10 times, then cut. commit to it, once you do it, you will have a hole in your truck for good. but I absolutely love the room I kept in my cab considering I have 4 12's slammin back there. If you have some common sence, a few tools, and arent scared, I say git er done. You can do it!!!! lol I cut my hole in the cab half an inch bigger all around to make up for movement being that I bolted the box to the bed and frame. this gives the flexibility you will need. keep lots of silicone handy. the more you use, the smaller chance in leaks. drop a bead in the seal channels before you snug up to the sheet metal. and be liberal with it around the outside of the seal as well. if you are not using a tono? cover, fiberglass your box to water proof it, then seal the hell out of it everywhere it meets up to the sheet metal in the bed. you want to keep it from going in between and going through the seal to your cab.........cant think of anything else. any questions, feel free to ask.

for small holes, you can jb weld a penny (or cut out pieces of steel...) to the back side. scuff the hell out of it first. but once cured, you can smooth out the outside with a little filler, prime and paint. have done it for years, works great.

damn Steve.....lookin sick as hell!!! inspired to start my doors as soon as I get some of this side work caught up.....nice work buddy bro!

^^^^second that. about 3.75 per square ft. and the more you buy the cheaper. 160 sq ft runs $2.25 per sq ft. killer stuff

good god mayne, looking great...as usual. gonna have to find some time to come out and bug you for a demo soon.