LSN2meBoom916

Dude Imma micro-person. (5'5'' 135lbs)If chicken really wants it done, hit me up...I could literally crawl inside the box, hold them 18's up by the motor and you could screw/bolt em in. Not to mention do all the wiring from inside the box...long as you trust me The only only "hard" one would be the last one, but again I bet I fit between the walls better. Glad them subs are breakin in. Once semester's over I need a summers day demo with the windows down...the Hoopty too *drool*

Timmay GP2K2 Beat me to it. O lawd. X2. You live you learn. ANYone who tells you that THAT is kosher....is NOT your friend...and prolly does jenky-ass body work. This Forum does actually have quite a few knowledgable folks..esp in the Fabrication/Fiberglass dept. Grounpounder2k2, EpicenterDesigns, RAY, Coogle....and a few others = some PROs, that KNOW what's up and can vouch for OTHERS who might claim to know something. Welcome to SMD. ~Chris

Really? You aint lookin very hard then bro. -1 bONDO? O lawd.

Well yea but only cuz the Stickers add deeebeeeeeez. Sucka.

I couldn't watch the vids the 1st time round but I jsut saw em. Nice air movement on the shirt. One thing tho- I would mount the neon tube OUT OF SITE so you just get the light from it but don't see the tube. Looks cheesy to me. Other than that seems like a nice setup and +1 for it being a Passport over a Rodeo

Glad to see everyone's keeping it REALISTIC (like Radioshack) in here. I know it's an "I wish" thread....but A LOT of these setups just aint got a shot in hell to actually happen. If Im outta line, ok fine continue the pipe dreams. Here's My "I just won the lotto...and already did all the responsible shit" system: Black, Late 90's-00 S-10 Blazer, bagged/dropped/i.e. 00Sdime's truck...but a blazer....Chrome 22's... I would be torn on subs...SOOOO many choices but 12-12's or more SEALED would be a lotta fun. TC 1000's/Audiopulse Epics, L7's, Boston G5's, DC LVL 4's, RE SX's, Ascendent Assassin or Arsenals, AudioiQue SD2.5 or HDC3's....man I could go ooon...I'd love to just keep changing em out and keep my favs. And prolly Just RF amps to run em and a 360 or 2. NO Fi, or DD. I know "dems da bigguns" but I prefer to stay off the bandwagon. (That's Y I run kicker right now hahahahaha yea right) The whole unlimited funds just makes it harder...I'm better at/prefer getting max bang for the $$$.

Agreed. seems QUITE small. Also ditch the cap. Invest in batts.

I already have the next 4 setups I wanna run.... In order of installs likely to happen. for power I have 3 Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1's and 4 PG T600.4's to play with... Subs... 4-Kicker CVR15's 8-Planet Audio Vortex 10's 4-Phoenix Gold Ti12Ds 4-TC sounds TC 1000's Some day man...some day.

Some one this site was askin how to do some doors a while back.... I am anal bout me records and shit and whatnot....so I found my reply to his Q back in sep 2007. Enjoy: WOW- Ok Here's a rough break down of glassin ur doors. -Once you have ur "design" or gameplan and how you see it FINISHED in ur head, you need to delete or cut out as much of the door behind the place ur gonna put ur mids to give the midbass woofer some air to play in. That part is not crucial but making some room MIGHT be helpful. -drill some holes all around the perimeter of the door edge where it MEETS the area you will be glassing. (See Pstones Doorpod builds and most in the Fglass section show what I mean-I'm talkin swiss cheese it w/ the drill) This is so the resin can seep/flow all the way through the door and dry into a "plug" behind the panel making ur pods/build ons attach firmly AT THE SEAM. -Once you have it full of holes about 1/2"-1" all the way around the edge, you should position ur MDF mounting rings. You can do this either by using Glue/hot glue/CA glue/crazy glue etc and DOWELS cut to length to give the angle you want (I show this in MY BUILD of the pods for my integra/member section) -After you have your rings all positioned/mounted to the panel, you can stretch some polyester or cotton Tshirt material over the whole thing, and resin the area you to be the "pods". Look through GP2K2's glass werk he does this OFTEN. -AS FOR THE RESIN!!!! OK-Resin by itself is just STICKY liquid. Applying it on its own will make NOTHING BUT MESS. Resin comes with A CLEAR-LIQUID-HARDENER called MekP (methyl-Ethyl-Keton-Peroxide). It's in a lil clear tube. you will HAVE TO thoroughly mix this into the resin, or it will NEVER get hard. The suggested mix is 12-15 drops (not squirts...single drops) per 1ounce or resin. This is NOT the only mix ratio that will activate the resin hardening... but the second you mix it it will start to get warm, then hot, and as it gets hot it will turn into HARD plastic. THE MORE HARDENER YOU USE THE FASTER THIS WILL HAPPEN! Be careful...start small...practice often. When it's mixed it should have the color of dark maple syrup and smell nasty like chemicals- MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA! The fumes will make you dizzy (and kill ur brain cells) and they ARE FLAMMABLE so be careful around open flames/cig's etc. The MORE clear hardener you add, the HOTTER the mix will get, and the FASTER it will get hard. Make sure you either use small amounts or resin until ur comfortable with the dry time and confident you can get it where it needs to be b4 it's dry or you will waste a shitload of resin real quick. So... Add resin to hardener in something that will not melt (cheap plastic or WAXED PAPER CUPS will melt under the heat+chemical reaction-use something sturdy or non plastic. Paint it on with a brush and keep a small cup of ACETONE handy (get some with ur supllies-1gal is a good size, 32oz is ok too) Acetone is gonna save you $$ and time in brushes-when ur done painting-hopefully b4 ur bruss is a solid chunk of plastic-put the bristles in the acetone-it will "melt off" the excess resin and keep ur brush usable for the next layer of resin. I would pre-cut a bunch of glass mat and have it handy in all sizes and shapes-so you can add it as needed and not run out b4 ur resin does. Another really good way to add strength and reinforce crazy shapes is to pull apaprt the chop mat before hand and add it in lil "bundles" you can roll them back in to these bundles after you pull it apart form its "mat form" I would recommend some latex or nitrile gloves too-resin is NOT good on ur skin-technically it is very harmfull stuff and you should eb careful w/ it-once it's on ur clothes or shoes-it will NOT come off. once you have the nice surface all painted up w/ resin, let it dry about 1/2 hr or till it's barely tacky to the touch. After that-PAINT it again with resin and you can paint the inside w/ resin too (mixed as described above) -If the back end of the panel is open-YOU'RE IN LUCK! (if not you can open it up w/ saw or dremmel) Once it's all nice on the front w/ a layer or 2 of resin-flip it over and start painting it w/ resin on the backside/inside of the pods. I would say-Paint it w/ mixed resin/hardener, then lay some glass over that and the resin will help it stick in place then you can paint over that w/ ur brush and kinda "tap out" the air pockets/bubbles/etc. The resin soaked mat will "slide around" on ya so be carefull to tap w/ out pushing it away from where you want it eventually dried. Let it dry and repeat that until it's nice and strong all over-a good 1/8"-1/4" inch should be good n solid. You can build it from behind and the "ugly" glass wil not matter the front should be nice and slick form the stretch if you got a nice form the 1st time-if not-Bondo Filler and RAGE or any GOLD filler (in that order) will SAVE you. More info avail upon request...but I only post this now...cuz It was already written. <--back to the HW :mad:

Rodeo?

Muuust be on some dem damn druuuuuuugs eh? Fail. You sir.....are fiberglass.

Well as much as I hate to go on record agreeing....the comp/compVR jump is a decent one and makes a difference. I am biased of course since I run VR's but I don't think u'd get 8 comp 12's to 145db in an suv... I din't see whare you mentioned the ride it's in? Those are decent numbers if it's anything S-10 blazer sized or bigger. My hatch does a mid 40's with 4cvr12s sealed-box+1400ish rms. Nice lookin box tho as usual. I even kinda dig the use of the kicker stickers...I'm all for "inside advertising" just none on the outside screaming "jack me! jack me!" Good job bro.

DUDE! YGPM

Correct. I got a few PMs askin for "how to's" on glassing for SUPER NOOBS...I asked Tim about it and he said he's ok with me doin it...This summer I will be doin a FULL "noob friendly" tutorial on it...for those lazy bastards... that have it SO NICE...yet can't even look through the member builds and fiberglass/fab section here (smd) and ACTUALLY LEARN THEM DAMNSELVES....I will be holding their bed wetting hands through it with step by step pics n all. Till summer.... 1: The forum... 2: Member builds/show off section 3: Fiberglass/fabrication section 4: Timmay's Corner^^ PM Any of the folks that have posted stuff in those sections on specific stuff. Other than that...Grow some nuts, buy some supplies, and start experimenting. No one gets good at it doing by sitting around on their ass...or asses. end rant.

This is true...esp since the resin will generally CRACK as it cures esp if you mix it too "hot" (more hardener than neccessary) Read the label. With the Bondo brand resin I believe they say 12drops per 1oz resin..but you can mix it "hotter" (more hardener/ per resin ounce than that) depending on ambiant temp. A space heater will speed dry time if it's cold.

"Talkin shit"....really?hahahahahaha. I have faith in Steve for one. For 2: I tied (With my car) with Steve's Tahoe in SQ at a local comp...therefore "his idea of SQ" and mine.....seem to be on the same page...at least in the judges eyes. I have sat in a number of "SQ cars" and know some peoples "idea" of SQ is ass backwards.

Freals Nismo-I have "hated" on you in your build log....and THIS is why-You really need to learn some HUMILITY, understand that guys doin this for 10-20yrs+ PROBABLY know a lil more than a 18yo "kid"/"noob". As BAD as I'm sure you wanna be "O.G." in this game...you have a Loooong way to go. David and Steve are damn near as old as you and me combined. (Sorry fellas it's just math ) See above.If they say it has SQ, trust them...or get on a plane. The tweets are not GONNA sound perfect in any vid.....have a seat in the ride then begin your "analysis" of it. Internet folks do this ALL THE TIME... "sounds good" or "sounds terrible" is only a function of the CAMERA'S MIC... and it makes no sense.I have yet to hear it, but I will for sure someday since it's all but 12min away. I'll drop my 2cents on it's "SQ" after that. I bet ur wrong.

Well there have always been and will always be people/companys preying on the uneducated and taking them/getting over on them for way more than it "should" cost...but if the those folks knew what it "should" cost they wouldn't be paying it unless they have $$ to just throw away and who does? Same goes for buying audio parts/having it installed as it does for mechanical repairs and repair parts. Some folks "know what parts REALLY cost" and are only willing to pay that as well as the labor to fix a car or install audio gear. Knowledge is power. EVERYONE should be getting educated, but very few are, therefore these practices of raping folks on parts prices and install labor will continue. The most YOU or I can do, is NOT pay those prices, and educate as many as possible on the matter. Build a setup as you have described-WITH KNOW-HOW, and smart shopping...then you can go to that shop and crush his demo Car/Truck/Van with 1/2 or less the $$$ in gear. But you can't save em all bro. Gotta just let it go at some point, or it'll make ya crazy.

X2 (My idea tho haha I called it 1st! long time ago when the doors started) EXACTLY what I wanna know/see/prove....I was like "damn I know guy or 2 out there with a 2-Punch 10's setup...crying one tear out each eye as he saw Chickens Caddy havin them for "midbass up front" hahahahaDoors lookin great Steve and Congrats on havin em DONE! I know you must be grinnin ear to hear to finally get to sit in there and have em SCREAM all around ya. <--Can't wait for vids and a TL/meter test.

Post #34 & post #35 speak on this..and the "why". (I'm not trying to be a smart ass here, just I think in this thread Polecat (and I) hit on "some" of the "why" of it all) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...20395&st=20

yup.

People are ignorant all over, in all kinds of ways and finding new ways to be ignorant or close minded every day.... However, your statement about the lambo doors on the Tiburon is out of place: Some one can have knowledge of car audio or NOT, and it would not neccesarily in any way effect their personal taste in body mods/exterior styling or vice versa.

I have a Rotozip Z1 (I think)...I actually use it quite often. I did however make a MUCH more stable FLAT PERCH than the shitty plastic one that comes with it... The 1 time (B4 I made the reinforced perch) I used the Rotozip with a ROUTER BIT in it...the stock-plastic perch/fence bent, and caught on the spinning router bit...=el snappo. After I built my own flat top/perch dealio (pics avail upon request) it's MUCH more easy to control and get useful cuts out of...I did also have to fashion multi-thickness spacers (2 in 3/16" plexi and 1 in 1/4" mdf) to adjust the cut depth/height or the router bits. It's handy SOMEtimes....and lighter weight than a router, good for "minor cuts/grinds" & thin metal with a cutoff wheel" but if you wanna CUT MDF.......It's ROUTER TIME ALL THE WAY! The handiest feature I have found is using a metal cutoff wheel to cut sheet metal and screws/nails.

Coulda just set up a mirror behind the 2 subs and played "what's wrong with this pic?" 1st prize is 1st demo. I call PhotoCHOP. GROOOOOOOOOSSSSS AHHAHAHHAHAHA!-fail- I think it looks kinda like a SI MAG or maybe a Q w/ the sloped ass end. Unless you stick your head up in the port w/ a flashlight I don't think the mags are really gonna be seen too much in Steves setup...and GOOD LUCK hangin out in the port area w/ it hammerin..WHOA...maybe we Need a vid of that maadness some day too hehe. Function over form I say, and it doesn't even look "bad" just different...sometimes change is for the better. Good luck on the other 2 showin up asap bro.

That's dope dude. Congrats, and you sure deserve it. When are we gonna see SMD the shop so I can drop off my app?