MrSkippyJ

Inverting a sub won't make the speaker sound any different, only change the acoustic properties of the enclosure.

caps don't do long anything.

Are they hooked up to the amp when you test them?

Looks like you have an answer a couple posts up.

I think I missed something, but you are saying that power wire that was too close to your speaker wires was making the speakers not play?

It is a mono-block amplifier, there is no bridging going on in the amp. The subs are wired up in parallel so you have a final load of 2 ohms. You should use test tones and a DMM (or o-scope if you have one) to set your gains, not your ears.

i'm glad i am not the only one who thinks this way. i've had a job basically since i was 16 to be able to do stuff. 16 years later and i am finally just about caught up. got a nice car with a nice (although small) system and as soon as my wife finishes her schooling we will have another income. it will be SO sweet to finally be able to go big after waiting and working for it all of these years. something someone who gets everything given to them will never understand. edit: I didn't mean to insinuate that any current team members are freeloaders

This guy sounds like the douche that left this comment on my youtube: "buying shit this small is just a waste of time n money if ur going to take the money to put a system in your car at least make it a decent one my highs alone could probably flex more than that thing"

Because of comments like that. That is talking shit.

Why? He clearly said he didn't build it for numbers. Why would you have any expectations out of it at all?

I think you asked this in the other thread, but just in case you didn't here goes. Connect the + terminals with 1/0 and a fuse near each battery. Use the frame (chassis) for the ground, just make sure you have a good frame ground on the battery in the front. You can use 1/0 for the ground and it will not hurt anything at all, in fact it might be better, but there is no need to do this at all. The frame (chassis) ground will work just fine.

I have never done any spl competitions so I don't really know how they work, but is the actual number even important? I mean does it matter if I hit 4 million on one style if no one else measures that way? I don't understand how comparing numbers that are figured differently (different mics, different doors open/closed, different mic placements, etc...) does anyone any good. Would it not make more sense to pick one, whichever and use that? I understand the calibration problems with some methods, but assuming that could be fixed would it matter whether a TL or AC (sorry if those are incorrect abbreviations) was used?

If you don't put a fuse near your rear battery you have a whole length of wire that is unprotected. The physical location in the car has nothing to do with a battery needing a fuse or not. If you need a fuse near a battery in the front, you need a fuse near a battery in the front. Adding fuses will hurt nothing, but not having a fuse can destroy everything. Be safe when adding batteries, wait for a second fuse.

Then you wait till you get one. It isn't worth burning your car down to have tunes sooner.

KnuKonceptz battery terminal you only mentioned one fuse, i hope you have a fuse near each battery.

If the resistance is good enough for the power wire, why wouldn't it be good enough for the ground wire? Assuming the battery and alt grounds are good then using a run of 1/0 would be just fine. Of course, with multiple amps and such it is just way easier to use the frame as a ground.

Right on. Get your stuff taken care of! I visit my dad fairly often so I am sure I will hear this thing one day. Yeah the one in Indy. He lives a few blocks from the track. We get to watch the after race (both 500 and brickyard) traffic clusterfuck each year. It is usually quite fun. We don't go to that track much as you can't see much, but we go to lots of races at ORP. Although less races now that I live in TN but I still make it up there when I get a chance.

Won't hurt anything but why do through all the effort of running a 1/0 cable when you can just use the frame?

oh nice, that is about an hour and 1/2 from speedway right?

Are you close to speedway? I will be there visiting my dad this weekend (going to some races at ORP) and if there is a chance I get to hear this I don't want to pass it up.

god damnit, now I am hungry a mcdouble sounds so good right now

Hmm, I will be in Speedway probably Wednesday-Monday, how close are you to there? I need to check this out.

It will just be really boomy, should hold him over until he gets an amp without that problem.

A new amp would be best with your bass boost problem, just make sure the amp does 400watts @4ohm bridged, not 2ohm. The amp needs to be 2ohm stable, but power output needs to be at 4ohm bridged. I think that is what you were saying, just want to make sure.

Sorry, I didn't mean the 800, I meant the 250, which turns out should be 400. The 4g would be fine, buy why not do 0g so you can upgrade later. Now that you are totally confused, read this. Series the voice coils (DVC 2ohm) to give you 4ohms. Your amp @4ohm bridged should give you 400w, which is what your sub needs. Since your bass boost is maxed, which is NOT preferable, you need to tune your amp so to what ever frequency the bass boost is centered around. This way your amp will never put out too much voltage or a clipped signal. The downside is all of your bass will be loudest around that frequency, and other frequencies will be MUCH quieter. Hopefully, you are planning on buying a new amp soon