MrSkippyJ

Now you just have to figure out if the EQ is bad or the ground is bad. Are the EQ and HU grounded to the same spot?

There is a grounding issue somewhere for sure. It could be internally in the EQ or RCAs (or a thousand different ways). Bypass the EQ and make sure it isn't your HU or RCAs. Once you know they work, then you can figure out how the EQ is causing a grounding issue.

Nothing bad about it, it just has about 1/2 the features of the .2

Duh, batteries create power and alternators just redirect it. Y'all didn't know?

Still not a bad deal though.

Too bad it's a .1 or I would be all over it.

Memphis is the same way. There is no noise ordinance here other than residential areas, but then they just tell you to turn it down.

500 x (6 vc) = 3k RMS. Your are fine with 1800 Edit: I should have said you are not overpowering them with 1800, sorry.

I put the wrong text in from the mayo clinic web site. It says the bacteria travels in tiny (too small for the eye to see) water droplets that can travel up to 4 miles. If your house has the bacteria, then it is very likely you will come into contact with it regardless of having a fan. Also, this is what I meant to copy earlier: Although it's possible to contract Legionnaires' disease from home plumbing systems, most outbreaks have occurred in large buildings, perhaps because complex systems allow the bacteria to grow and spread more easily. It just seems the risk is minuscule in a house and a fan would do little to increase the risk.

From: Mayo Clinic The real threat is indoors, where legionella bacteria can multiply in water systems, whirlpool spas, air conditioning systems and even the misters in grocery store produce departments. Like many microorganisms, legionella bacteria have the ability to anchor themselves to the interiors of pipes, faucets and shower heads. Once attached, the bacteria replicate in a sticky substance called a biofilm. As water flows past, it dislodges some of the biofilm, dispersing bacteria throughout the water system. Although it's possible to contract Legionnaires' disease from home plumbing systems, most outbreaks have occurred in large buildings, perhaps because complex systems allow the bacteria to grow and spread more easily.

I challenge you to hear the difference in "response time" between the 2 amps. If you want to overpay, go for the JL amp, of course you will only have about 1/2 the power.

What does that have to do with catching the disease?

18 inch speakers are 18 inches tall. You said you have 15 inches of height. And it is width, not weight.

If it were me, I would pick something you can fire into the cabin and have the trunk sealed off. You said you only have 15" of height so 18s wouldn't work. There are many ways to do a trunk install so firing them into the cabin is far from your only choice.

You really want to avoid trying to stuff as many subs in your trunk as you can, you will just end up with tons of rattle at the cost of lots of sound.

Even if you can make a box big enough in your truck, I wouldn't do it. Build a wall or use less subs.

It wasn't a dumb question, it was an easy question to answer. Wouldn't you rather someone used a resource like this forum to find out information rather than assume and do everything wrong. Which is exactly why he asked to question, he didn't just listen to what he was told.

I wish they would make it fast again. And do more jokes.

Your phase switch has nothing to do with your fuses.

You are sending 500w to your subs and they are rated for 400w RMS each (800w total). Ideally you would want 800w RMS so you are under powering them a bit. This won't hurt them as long as you don't try to compensate by cranking your gains up. If you do that you start sending a clipped signal to your subs which can ruin subs even when underpowered.

Adding terminals does nothing to change your OHM load. You can get a .5, 2, or 8 OHM load from those subs, just like the website said.

I am not sure how a phase switch would cause fuses to stop blowing. If the subs were all in phase with each other there won't much (if any) difference in the sound when you flip that switch. The rest sounds like a voltage problem to me. Your alternator sounds like it is having keeping up with demand at lower RPMs and the car is increasing RPMs to make up for it. That could explain the variation in the sound as well. Hook a voltage meter up and see what your voltage is doing while playing and at idle.

Second Skin iCool oh man, i suck at this.

Grasshoppers, cicadas and such. i hate them!

No.