S15_Silvia

I like the comments. "For when the zombies come" haha

I hear ya...for a long time I've been wanting something in my room to handle some bump. iHome sure as hell doesn't cut it alone, and neither can the 15+ year old Infinity bookshelves I have on a bulky Sony mini system.

Yep, got the Savage 25 back there. It's going away for the winter I think, plus I want to put a pullstart on it anyway. That roto-start garbage or whatever they call it annoys me. Thanks!

As some of you know, I have a custom 12 put together by Forevrbumpn, and I requested that he leave the re-coning to me. I really want to assemble both the sub and enclosure myself, so I can see what goes into it and of course learn how to do it right. The sub's specs are in my sig, but the amp is a QSC Audio RMX850, which will put out roughly 830W into 4ohms bridged. I know a lot of you may not have heard of them but over in the Home Audio section I hear it's a pretty good brand. (the thing feels solid as hell - weighs about 35lbs) The sub can do 1kW RMS, but I don't want to push it and the RMX850 was a steal for what I paid. Some pics of the sub (sexy): And of course, the amp: I'm going to be using a simple 2-way crossover and Knukonceptz RCAs to run this off a docked iPod, should sound all right. Mids and highs will be piped into my iHome from the crossover for now, thinking about getting some M-Audio or DD monitors down the road. Let me know what you think...more photos and updates as they happen.

Oh goodness that tall surround will probably work wonders. Reminds me of my 12 in a way I'm gonna say 153+ out of the new setup with a 14k on each for burps

Was that a power wire in your door jamb...

You could attach right-angle metal tabs on the bottom corners of your box, have threaded bolts coming up through the floor, and secure the tabs to the bolts with nuts. Just a suggestion.

Someone correct me on this but it might be that the system is drawing tons of power straight off the battery when at idle, because the alternator isn't putting out many amps. EDIT: Need mo batteries

What are your enclosure specs? And is it the strokers that are all black and the stroker pros that have the clear plastic dustcap?

What was your spacing and depth of cuts to make that kerf? I'm looking at making an enclosure really similar to this for the 12 in my sig.

You could always just live with playing it lower until you upgrade the electrical. But I guess if it's too hard not to...taking it out would do the trick.

I'm looking for a simple high/low pass crossover, nothing too fancy. It'll be used in more of a home audio setting, with one set of RCAs going to my sub amp and the other going to the mids/highs. Let's see what you've got

I know what you're getting at with that, but it also makes it easier for thieves...I would always be worrying about that.

^This. Forget my idea, wL's got it. That RF all-in-one amp will save space and a bit of wiring. You *could* add in a higher-amp alt to the mix, but at least do the big three. A single DC lvl 3 would be nice, or maybe a Fi SSD or an AQ SDC.

What work was done on the engine? A rebuild or modifications? Just curious here. And as far as the audio...I would run components where possible in place of the stock speakers, and dual 10s or 12s in a relatively small (sealed) box if you want to conserve space in that car...tis a nice one.

I thought the same...kinda frightening

He annoys the hell out of me. Especially with that squeaky voice he's got

The short answer: don't have the dealer do it.

You're only looking for the valve covers? I thought you were looking for head gaskets, my bad.

Try rockauto.com have had good luck with them for my Jeep

Anyone who owns a Cherokee of any year knows that the rear drum brakes are garbage. I definitely know that about mine, which is actually kind of a special model (Limited, 2001 (last year built), skid plates, tow hooks, transmission oil cooler, heavier-duty suspension -- all factory) I've begun to notice that the rear drums are barely doing any work, so instead of adjusting them and just putting up with it, I decided to swap to rear discs. I'll be using the caliper brackets/backing plates from a '96 Grand Cherokee (have parts in-hand) and the parking brake cables from the older (rounded) Liberty...not the new boxy one. (have those on order at the dealer - should have them in tomorrow) Aside from that, the axle seals, rotors, calipers, lines and pads will all be brand new. Pics to follow sometime soon...let me know what you think

The new one gives you the 3.4, or the old one did? What model did you go with?

What I'm referring to is the lack of customer service from that company. Plus the huge rate of DOA cards they happen to make... I always recommend XFX and EVGA to people...bulletproof warranties and good shit overall. XFX stepped into the ATi market now, so now people can get ther HD4xxx and HD5xxx cards with no worries. ASUS and Sapphire are also good for the ATi folks.

I could always post up (or PM) a list of part suggestions if you wanted.

An Alienware is a dressed up Dell with some blue LEDs and maybe a liquid cooling system thrown in. It's still made of the same cheap internals at the end of the day. Coming from a computer hardware engineering major, just telling you guys I know a thing or two. If you're looking to only spend somewhere between 500 and 1000, I'd suggest building it. There are so many tutorials out there...plus for that money you'd be able to get FAR better components if you bought them all and built it up. My $.02