Loudcivic

you should only run 10w30 in your jeep in the summer and you can switch to 5w30 for the winter time. you can run 10w30 in it in the winter also. your jeep i believe above 32F requires 10w30 but i cant remember the exact temp lol. i change oil all day long i only put 10w30 in the jeeps like yours. and for the lucas maybe half a quart if you wann try it out imo its not needed but you could try it. just switch back to 10w30 and run that

audioque 1200 done deal. good solid amp and will work well with your sub

sounds like your clipping the shit out of it edit: my ap1500 gets warm but never gets real hot and has never shut off. my amp is mounted on the seat and it is closed all the time with only a couple of inches of room for it to breath.

well i run an audiopipe 1500 and i have had no problems so far and is working great. in the next few weeks it will have a 15" btl on it so we will see how it performs with that. a friend thats on these forums is running 3 15" ssd's on the ap1500 and is performing great to. i dont understand why you say junk when it puts out rms if you have the voltage to back it up just like any other amp. either you both have never ran one to see how well they work or your just fanboys of high dollar shit whick everybody cant afford.

damn thats loud as hell. good job

lmao thats funny

not really a BURN. i work at an oil change and i grease ball joints and tie rods and everything else that had zerks on it all day. just some people dont know that even though there brand new theres not a whole lot of grease in them. anything new that has grease zerks on them should have more grease put in them for a longer lifetime of use. just passin on some info that is all

looks good but dont forget to grease those new balljoints usually they only come with a little bit of grease in them

mini-box.com has some good stuff to you might wanna check it out edit: to me this isnt a bad carputer http://www.mo-co-so.com/product-p/mcs-cbs-510.htm and add the touchscreen and operating system and your set to go. i will rec. using windows xp on something like this so it has a decent speed for doing what u need

damn those smd's are hittin hard. nice

o no jl and 250 for 2 w1's. im sorry but that sounds like a rip off. i would run pyle or legacy before i would ever run jl lol. sub: fi ssd 18"(229 plus shipping) https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154c1570863d5c1/shopdata/0050_Speakers/0040_SSD/product_overview.shopscript amp: audioque 1200d(249 shipped) http://www.audioque.com/aq/?page_id=72 battery: kinetik hc1400(165 shipped) http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KINETIK-KR5112-KHC1400-POWER-CELL-RACING-BATTERY-/390208749800?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ada4100e8 and the highs you can find or sumbody can show you some. with that setup above you will be loud and thats around 650 to 700 shipped for the above and the rest you can use for highs and wire and fuses

if its clean ya its a good deal. go shoot like 5 to 10 shells through it to make sure it shoots good and if so then buy it.

well heres my opinion about rf now. i had a t8002 and had it fixed and everything was ok and it sounded good. well it didnt last long and it let out the magic smoke. so i ended up getting a ap1500(i know its more watts then the rf) and i love it. i couldnt say anything bad about it i have had no problems. i will definitely buy audiopipe again. i myself will say screw rockford fosaget i will never buy anything from them again. i will go get my car audio somewhere else and be happier that i did. i say sell the rockford amps and get the aq or ap amps.

thats cool as hell

lmfao that was funny

i seen this on tv it just amazes me how he can hear the echo of things by making a sound.

i say go with a re audio se from audiosavings. you can get them for a little under 200 and it will be louder than any rf or kickers subs that ive heard. plus audiosavings are good people i messed my sub up and i sent it out and had a new one in a week. its get loud for just one 15 and sounds good doing it

wow he can spit thats all i need to say

nice! your shit gets down i love it

here ya go http://www.brothersoft.com/download-izarc-23348.html

wow that was pretty good

MAT stands for manifold air temperature and is usually located in the airbox or around that area and also sometimes in the intake on certain cars. it can also be called the IAT which mean intake air temperature. look at this page you can get an idea were it may be and go from there. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics/MAT_sensor.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm&usg=__aqCWk9kqcK9RlvdJIbf5IIoFmTg=&h=346&w=461&sz=33&hl=en&start=1&sig2=yjcWYfjnTLPV9ZJHwHzCgw&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=3OE3tnKlmTMBwM:&tbnh=96&tbnw=128&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmat%2Bsensor%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DX%26tbs%3Disch:1&ei=Z0zrS7HHFML6lweC4IWcBA

voted

even though its a ford and which i dont like it makes good hp for a 4 banger. now if i were to put all that money and parts into my honda motor it would make a lot more hp than that car. but hey at the end of the day its just a ford. my honda b18b1 non vtec motor with cams, cold air intake, header and a little bit of a tune does 14's flat on street tires all day long and mid to high 13's with my old bigger tires that were like a sticky drag radial. not very impressive for all that work to that car that you said wl<3bass and only doing 14's

here ya go man http://support.dell.com/support/downloads/download.aspx?c=us&cs=22&l=en&s=dfh&releaseid=R175658&SystemID=INS_PNT_PM_1520&servicetag=&os=WW1&osl=en&deviceid=14029&devlib=0&typecnt=0&vercnt=2&catid=17&impid=-1&formatcnt=0&libid=17&typeid=-1&dateid=-1&formatid=-1&source=-1&fileid=238839