CJ18

They look cool, just a bit of a pain to me. Run the port the full height of the box on the side.

just do one port one side. will make it much easier

Running a single Level 3 12 on a 1.2k at 1 ohm will be perfectly fine.

What you are tuned to on paper and what it is when it is in your vehicle will be different. It will vary based on the car sealed up, windows down, 1 window down, etc. I would shoot for about 33hz on paper and hope for the best.

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Odd, i was told no BP for l6's.. lol... These particular subs were actually built with a 4th order in mind. Jan the box design you have looks just fine.

Ok Im not even going to bother reading pages 2 and 3, I am seeing so much on page 1 that makes no sense at all. First off the Level 6 is FAR from a burp only sub, not clue where that came from. Secondly, 5ft3 per sub for a 15? I love when people who dont know the product seem to be experts on the subject. Lets get down to actually answering your question. The subs are dual 2 ohm and will be on a 5k per sub. 3.5-3.75ft3 net per sub. I see so many people lately suggesting these HUGE amounts of port area and just dont quite understand that. 15in2 per 1ft3 has treated me well and always sounded good.

Musical application, I would take the Level 5.

I wouldnt trust the stinger volt meter. Slow sample rate and not very accurate

6 got my vote, but 6 or 7 would be great. Number 2 is just too provocative for me. These are shirts that will be worn in public and represent the company, #2 just doesnt fit my taste because of that.

Alot of the sound has to do with each specific vehicle as well. There is no magic formula, just trial and error. Unfortunately there really is not right way to do it, but there sure are alot of ways you can fuck it up before you find what works best in your vehicle.

More so, how many have used that calculation with the subs in question? I know nothing about DC subs though.

I know nothing..................

net airspace looks good. 12-15in2 of port per 1ft3. Anything in that range should work well for you. It just gives you a little bit of wiggle room when designing the box since it can be a bit of a pain to get everything just perfect.

We now have the VCMs in stock and ready to ship. These are compatible with Alternators with the GM 4 pin oval regulator that are internally regulated. http://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/vcm-voltage-control-module-p-252.html

Anytime

Grab 2 more Level 3 15s and take the cone area. The 4 15s splitting the power should be much louder than the single XL 18. you will also have more room for upgrade power alter with the 4 Level 3 15s. They are currently 15% off right now using the discount code TURKEY15 at checkout. http://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/ Please let me know if you have any questions that I can help answer for you.

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What I am thinking is that if it rubs no matter what is that maybe a shim could have gotten left in.

When you just press on the 1 side, you are causing the coil to tilt. The suspension on that sub is not that stiff to prevent you from doing that. Can you shine a flashlight in the gap vents in the bottom of the sub and see if you can see even spacing between the coil and the pole.

If you are pressing evenly on the dustcap and it does not rub, there is nothing wrong. Does the coil seem to move freely when you press down or is it tough to press?

If you bought them from Jim, he will need to handle the warranty issue for you. If you think that is is a warranty issue, you can also fill out the Repair Form http://www.dcaudio.us/warranty.html and send it in. For future purchases, please let myself or Jeff help you, we are not going to disappear on you after the sale, we are here to help.

Thank you Miguel.

Agreed. Certified is a bitch though. Honey Badger has some SHARP teeth!

Yes the dyno can be used in car. Used in this fashion, it mostly identifies weaknesses in your electrical system.