nCOMP1337

Couple things for sale, I may add some more if I can, juts going through the house finding things I can sell, gotta make some quick cash to pay 200 off my electricity or I lose my apartment (i live in government housing and if i dont keep utilities on, i lose my housing) SO lets hope you guys want the few things I got to sell ITEM FOR SALE Rockford Fosgate Prime R500-1 Amplifier DESCRIPTION Info from Crutchfield Website, I do not have the birth sheet or bass knob mono subwoofer amplifier 320 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms) CEA-2006 compliant variable low-pass filter filter (40-130 Hz, 12 dB/octave) variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 45 Hz) wired remote Punch Level Control included Class-AB amplifier design frequency response: 20-200 Hz MOSFET power and output stages preamp-level inputs and outputs 8-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier fuse rating: 30A x 2 7-11/16"W x 2-1/2"H x 17-1/4"D Cosmetics: 9/10 there are some scratches and little smudges on the surface, it does not affect performance at all Mechanics: 9.5/10 This amp works just fine, wasnt abused and never saw an issue at all, not in protect, not cutting out, all worked great, loses .5 cause no bass knob, some people like that functionality I guess I got this from jeyrapboy on here, not sure what the original birth sheet rated it at 2 ohms, but for some reason I am thinking 527 rms and it is only stable at 2 ohm this was used to run some beastie cadence 6x9s for about a month, besides that time its been sitting on a shelf PRICE 85 Shipped to the continental US, anywhere else and I will have to get a quote NOTE: Laptop is not for sale, unless you want to drop 1500 on it, its very big, very powerful laptop, only reason I dont sell it, is because it is what I use for school and work whenever I have some to do Next, is some 4 guage Rockford Fosgate Power and Ground wire with 100A fuse about 12 inches from end where it was connected to battery - 40 Shipped (little over 2 bucks per foot) (to be honest I am not sure what a good price is for this wire, I know its good wire, I paid like 4 bucks a foot, but the wire is 2 years old but only been used maybe 4 months total, so if I am selling it too low or too high, please let me know, I need all the money I can get.) Without counting the terminal in measuring about 33 inches of black wire used for ground about 16 feet of Red wire used for power The amp will be bubble wrapped and mailed via USPS however I can without it going through a sorting facility, I just dont trust electronics being bounced around on conveyor belts Same goes for the wire, but it will be mailed however cheapest, unless you need it expedited for some reason In the past I have only dealt with sonic_purity and jeyrapboy on the forums, both transactions went smooth

yea, anyone can retrieve deleted data i have 3 programs that can completely wipe the drive clean, eraser, ccleaner, glary utilities what you should do even if just a format, go ahead and format, and be sure to wipe the free space of the drive as well i know a few programs do that, wiping the free space should completely get rid of all the data that may be able to be recovered, it may still show up somewhere if someone tried to retrieve it, but it would just be a broken file because its overwritten with 0s and 1s a lot of these programs use similar DoD stuff and NAS, not sure if they are the same i know ccleaner and glary are free, and they do work, as i recently wiped my free space on my harddrive, and then ran a recovery software and nothing that has previously been deleted on my harddrive was recoverable, just to be sure i recovered a bunch of files, and nothing happens when you open it, if you change file name to something else and do get it open, its just a bunch of symbols plus ccleaner is a useful program for any computer, lol same as glary

here is one with sub/port up tuning should be the same, If you move the sub over slightly then you can 45 the beginning of the line, but the sub is already very close to the port wall, so youd have to move sub a bit to 45 it, which would raise the tuning however because it would create a shorter port length as far as the vent being tapered, that isnt all tlines, its another way to make them, however I do not know how it effects tuning and how to calculate for that, so i have not tried designing a taper/horned tine honestly dont think this speaker is a good candidate for a tline, however if the OP still wants it to be in a tline, thats up to him

ahh, that makes sense with the qts, i know the definitions of them, just couldn't remember why it as good or bad for it to be a higher or lower number depending on what you wanted to do

Yea, I could taper it, didnt think of that I wouldnt mind trying a taper, I dont know how that affects tuning though and how to calculate for that, is it sort of like horn theory, cause I dont know how to calculate that either

I had fun with this, was just curious how large it would be and it is quite big, I've been told T-Lines arent good with high amounts of power, but as I said this was just for fun, 1 SMD woofer cost moe than my entire setup, so no way would this come to fruition at least not by me This box has a lot of port, mainly due to its nearly 16 inches of mounting depth SUB: SMD / AA 15 Dual 2 Fs: 30.1 Qms: 4.99 Qes: 0.29 Qts: 0.27 Sd: 810cm^2 (half of actual port area, lol) Mounting Depth: 15.75 including stud Outer Diameter: 15.625 Cutout Diameter: 14.125 Sub Displacement: .24 cuft Weight: 73 pounds Box: Outer Dimension: 63 wide x 39 deep x 20 tall Inner Volume: 16.65 cuft after displacement (not accounting further bracing) Tuned to 29.7 Hz Port Length: 114 inches Port area: 256 inches (yes tons, not sure how that will affect its functioning within the T-Line) Now I think if this worked, 3 of these next to each other or stacked in a walled type of configuration (floor to ceiling) would just be cool, just cause I like T-Lines, for the money spent and functionality you would probably want, much easier way to go about a setup like this of course, I just wanted to see how it would look Inside View Complete with X ray Complete Since it will be a while before I can afford my sub, and I have my own design for a box done and too much free time due to no job, I just have a bit of fun trying to design boxes, I wish I knew more about 4th, 6th, and BP designs, those would be fun

i know, but that is the Fs of the speaker, not sure what the F3 of the speaker would be, but i dont know how well the speaker would play below tuning, but this should give it a short range, maybe from 55-65-70 yea, its like a fart box Tline, lol considering T-lines are known for getting loud and laying a good wide bandwidth of frequencies, lol

then can you give the dimensions of the box you have or plan to have, and what ports your wanting, and what subs will go in there and what power with the right info, someone on here can do the math for you and use torres to get the tuning your looking for

in terms of quality i think crescendo and audioque are quite close i know AQs are underrated a bit i believe not sure about crescendos as far as cadence goes, i think it depends on which line of amps do rated and i am not sure which are the ones, but i know many of their amps are good, just dont know which i would also suggest AQ1200 over a cadence, AQ is about the best budget quality amp you can get crescendo is priced jsut right to compete and it does give good power, but as far as a company, AQ has more time in the business, but that doesnt mean crescendo isnt just as good

yea so say 1 4 inch port is 5 inches long, the area of that port would be 20 square inches, so say you have 6 of those, thats a combined total port area of 120 square inches so here as long as the combined total port area is 120 square inches, you should be fine so like 2 6 inch aeros at 10 inches long would net you 120 square inches of port this is at least how i see it, read my sig though i am a noob, it is best to allow someone else to chime in, but to me this is how the area would work and as long as the area is the same it should matter, though i do think less bigger ports are better than more smaller ports, so wanting 1 or 2 instead of 6 is a good choice

I believe as long as the area of the port is equal, that is what you should be concerned with, so you would need to know the length and diameter of the smaller aero ports and then find the area by multiplying diameter by length and multiply by number of aero ports, then you would have to find 1-2 larger aero ports that is equal to or as close to equal to the area of the smaller ports

Here is the one that is to spec 31 wide x 11.25 tall x 11 deep 56 inch port length = 4.67 cuft 40.5 sq in port area Tuned to 60.5 Hz For the cut out of the sub, I used 8 inches for the model, because the outer diameter is 8.8 inches, im not sure what the cutout is, so you woudl have to adjust that when cutting it out, but that wont affect anything else Cut Sheet List: Based on easiest way to cut (if you can make multiple pieces the same size, i thin that works best, this is how I tried to make the cut sheet) Top: 11 x 31 Middle: 9.5 x 25.75 Bottom: 11 x 31 Front: 9.75 x 31 Back: 9.75 31 Side without Port: 9.5 x 9.75 Side with Port: 4.5 x 9.5 45s: 3.75 (that length is before you cut the actual 45 for the wood, the side of the 45 facing towards the port is 3.75 long, the side facing towards the corner will be shorter after you 45 it) any other questions let me know

well, a U turn box like the one i made, is the simplest to make, less chance of any mistakes, and should perform well, in Tlines i Believe the least amount of turns allows for best performance, if you have the room for a b ox like this, this would probably be the best tline to go for

to be honest, i am not sure why those particular t/s specs are important for a t-line, ive been told before just cant remember, but i know if you read the quaterwave T-line tutorial it talks about those particular specs and where you want them here is a rough estimate based ont he drawing you made and the port area and length needed this is just 5 min rough sketch, i can make a much better one in a bit, this was just to see if its what you wanted

are there any other specs you can give? QMS, QTS, QES are each good to know for a tline, because they help determine if the sub would work very well, or so i believe you want a qms of less than 7, qes and qts of less than .4 Fs:60, Qms:5.23, Qes:0.89, Qts:0.76 it has a good qms, however, qts and qes are twice where you really want them to be you are on the right track, the second design in the bottom right would work good, you want the port close to the sub, you got the port length spot on, du to the mounting depth of the speaker and height, you will need at least 9 inch high port and minimum 4.5 in wide port, that would give you 40.5 sq in of port, which is very close to your 41

i use OFC welding cable, about 3 bucks per foot, cant remember strand count, but its good stuff and pretty flexible get it on ebay through coppercableman or at trystar.com that and rockford fosgate is all i have experience with

ive seen sa-10s take 1200 on good electrical and clean in put of course the AA chaos would also take that, its probably close to that price range or barely out of it

price point is ~139 i believe, so priced good i think

now wheres the vid, it showed up in my subscription list, i clicked on it and it said removed, LOL

nice, ive seen a few baffles with that sort of design , because subs had to be close, always liked how it looked

if i remember right, didnt they actually rate the tsns 10 at more like 3500 rms because of suspension or other issues which would prevent it form safely handling the full 5000 like the tsns

maybe find someone on craigslist, thats prolly it collectable anything is barely worth much these days and if it is, no one wants to pay value

better equipment would definitely help, the audio you had is pretty entry level i believe, what size power and ground wire did the shop install, and what fusing did they have on it? If you plan to upgrade, believe me you can UPGRADE to 10s, LOL some beasty 10s available., maybe you meant downsize, anyways, lets us know your budget, plans, car, electrical, and people will try to help you out

Everyone does this, one kid wanted a system to compare to mine for under 1k total, I was like woah now my alt cost more than half that! lol i do think decent systems can be had for under 1k, if you take the time to find all the parts it takes, you arent gonna find everything for a good deal at once my entire system will barely reach 1k in total cost, it will be a ~2000 rms system, but wont know how decent it is until its built an d is playing, but at least all parts are good equipment i hate it when people just want cheap and go to walmart to buy something, if they want to thats fine, but you can still get good equipment for a good price if you take the time to look but just saying i want to do that, but im not spending over X amount for it, no can do there, lol there is a reason, that 150DB, hairtricks, 160DB, windshield shatter, are all milestones in the car audio world, they are not easy to get

Looks nice always nice seeing your designs