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TheBetterMethod

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Everything posted by TheBetterMethod

  1. Well looking at that, the only way you could make a decent box is to fiberglass the bottom to the contours of the floor. The dimensions in the drawing are a little confusing, but the volume I came up with was 2.9 cu.ft. before subtracting the hump and irregularities. After subtracting those irregularities, your actual available box volume is about 2.7 cu.ft. or less. It's just hard to tell judging by the photo. Once the seat is raised 4 inches you'll gain about 1.4 cu.ft. and that will bring your available gross box volume up to approximately 4.1cu.ft. which is plenty for two twelves and a port. All that was figured out with just a basic understanding of geometry. I'm no mathematician I just understand how to apply what I've been taught. If you can figure the volume of a cube, your good to go. Just break the dimensions you have into multiple volumes, instead of trying to do all the math with one equation. What I did was take the height X depth X width to determine the major volume. Then calculate the volume of the hump, and subtract that from the major value. Hopefully I explained that in a way that make sense. Let me know if that didn't help.
  2. We still have to know his real dimensions to figure if that will work or not.^ EDIT ninja edit^
  3. I would run the 0 to the amp + and - Use whatever 0 you have left for whatever part of the big 3 it fits best. Then use double runs of 4 to complete the rest or the big three. BTW I've got the same amp.
  4. Well with those dimension you have right around 2.8 cubic feet for the max volume of the box before displacement and not factoring in the hump in the floor. So that makes it hard to work with. If you use one 4 inch aero port and tune to 33hz and the final volume after displacement is 2 cubes, you have an extra .6 cubes to play with. That's using the dimension and displacement you posted. I think the sub displacement you posted may be wrong, it seems too small.
  5. ^That Determine the max size you can make the box, then figure how much you can remove from that max. to get the 2cubes after displacement. also factor in the standard 12-16square in. of port per cubic foot. You have absolutes: Sub displacement Box volume after displacement Tuning frequency Port area Size limitation Once you know your size limitations the rest is easy.
  6. I've been looking for a place to brag about the DD-1 and now I know where to post. Thanks Steve, and D'Amore for the DD-1 I freaking love it! I wouldn't mind one of those 2500s either. Le me know if you need a copy of my address.
  7. I use the $5 meter off eBay. Accurate and reliable. They sell them at Parts-Express.com now too. They're made by Sure Electronics.
  8. The box looks awesome! Really sucks that you got broken into. Do you plan on a security system before the sub goes in? It seems like a good idea.
  9. Rubbing alcohol is too weak for me. I'd straight up soak that shit with methanol.
  10. I'd spray a little brake parts cleaner on a towel and use that to clean the glass. No chance of the rain x standing up to that. At the same time, I doubt the rain x would keep the decal from sticking anyway.
  11. I'm waiting for Toyota month. Will there be a Toyota month? I'd like a 270a for my 3.0 Solara. You only have a listing for the 2.4. I assume you can make some for the 3.0 right? It seems strange that you don't list one since that motor is in tons of Toyota/Lexus vehicles.
  12. I fixed 99% of the trunk lid rattle on my car. A couple feet of deadener and a couple cans of foam is all it took. Now I have to lay some deadener on the floor to get rid of the rest of the rattle. But I swear the trunk lid is dead quiet, even with a factory spoiler. I'll take some vids when I get the floor deadened.
  13. I'd dig some green and black, or yellow and black. Are these 7in. dia. or what?
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