Wastehog

Really, you don't have to run a fuse. He doesn't run any fuses, because he trusts his wiring and such. Big competitors also don't run them. There is a reason for this. Fuses restict current flow. Another reason is, its cheaper to not have to buy, 15+ 1/0 fuse holders and fuses.

Do you want to lay out? Or drag the "frame" Dragging "frame" would be a lil bit. Your lookin at a thousand for the bag kit, easily. Then another few hundred in labor, not including the cost of drop spindles, and notching the suspension parts. That's not a specific estimate, but a general one. Someone can chime in with more details.

50 foot spool?

MA audio? I've heard of them like 30 second ago lol. Looks like a built sub, froma company with no publicity? Lol. Let us know how it sounds

We can only wish.. lol

5x10 sheets? Hmm.. that's a little uncommon around my neck of the woods. Whats the price on the sheets? Little more or cheaper then 4x8 sheets?

Wheres the post of said fun vids? Also, the gauges, like have been stated aren't cheap. They can run anywhere from $50-$300 for a single digital guage. If he really wanted to, Summit sells a digital dash, thats like 300 bones, but it does everything. Fuel, Wat Temp, Oil Press, Speedo, Tach. Not sure if it comes with all the sensors, but something to look at. Summit Racing Digital Gauge

Good thing you got the picture before chevy found out.. coulda messed up a perfect picture

I love the new challengers, but I damn well wouldn't pay the price of one. Not that I hate, but for my dollar I think there is better out there. Imo anyone can have a 2010 challenger, Camaro or even Mustang, but far and few could have the real nostalgic 60's or 70's muscle cars. For the money, I'd spend it on something that turns heads, not something I can see on every dealers floor... just my .02 cents. Also, I'd remove the challenger badge too, leaving the str8 unless you want a sleeper look...

Slide hammer and dollie ideas are the only way to remove the dent. Now, for a paint idea. I have found a pretty darn good paint solution for cheap, for a daily driver. My buddy had a hacked to hell s10, which he wanted to paint one color. Well, he sanded down the truck, went down to Tractor Supply and picked up a few cans of tractor implement paint. His dad and him had just restored his Farmall H Tractor to damn near show quality with this paint. What it is, its generally a bit tougher then automotive paint, but very easy to apply. With a little bit of body work, the paint can give you show quality with farm tested toughness. I have a buddy who has a mud truck (600 hp chevy with 40's) who wanted a decent looking paint, for somewhat cheap. He seen my other buddies results and decided to try it. They went out and bought 2 gallons for like $50 with tax. Da'd the paint down a bit. They didnt have a good enviroment to spray, so they soaked the dirt garage floor and closed up the place. They decided to spray.. The truck today.. is almost too nice to mud. It's literally immaculate, besides a few dents in the body that were overlooked. By the way, his paint is semi gloss, with no clear coat added and no base coat either, only the factory gm paint to adhere to. I figured, everyone is looking for cheap, and especially if this is a DD then its going to get damaged and what not. I think the implement paint with a little extra body work can reap great results.

Lol definitely a for sure. Here comes the ignorant comments about his dad pulling out and the comments saying he could be right.. lol.

When I seen the title, for some reason thought Twisted posted it, just seems like it was his style lol. I personally dislike Twilight, and think its overrated. The soccer comment had me laughing. I guess the bitch that had a dream and wrote a book is makin bank though.. lucky bitch.

Doors look good. I think I'd be more willing to cut the sheet metal in the cars back seat then assemble the box in the trunk. But that's just me and I like changing it up a lot. Waiting for more pictures of the tweets.

Helo HE825, imo. I like the look better then the second ones. What tool is that? Where can I locate it at? lol.

You could always put best offer on the sub and like $40 on the batt. How old is the batt? If its stock, I'm going to assume 8 years? If so, put like $25 on it.. I know I can get Ac Delco batts for $25 a pop, without the warrenty, new.. at the dealership. Just an idea..

If the sub was pushed to its limit.. Its moving a. Lot more air.. Ya see. The more air.. The cooler it is..

The subs, especially higher end ones require them to be moving, to pull cooler air into the coil and cool it off. The reason the dust cap was hot is because the subs dissapte heat thru the caps.. I think.. Don't quote me. I would def rebuild a box and get rid of the loading issue. The trunk lid being open wouldn't have been that big of an issue.. Or else hair tricks and such wouldn't happen..

The sub that wasn't moving as much, getting hot, was because it couldn't cool. Subs need to move to cool, and the non moving one, couldn't cool as much. (I think..) The one moving, got cooled. I would have your gain set with a oscope, because setting with a dmm doesn't mean you aren't clipping.. you can be clipping and not knowing it..

What carb that buick got on it? Q jet? 36 degrees is good.. if you're idling at like 6 grand lol. Oh well.. glad you figured out the problems.

I don't see the big deal. So what.. the guy wanted a 1 OFF custom paint job. Hes not out there to impress EVERYONE.. just the people with the cash and the lack of brains to buy it. I think the quality is pretty fuckin sick. I thought the car was wrapped. I would drive it.. if I was given it, but to buy it? Nah.. Ive seen far worse shit done to civics...

BEST bang for the buck.. unless the wire you're getting is stolen..

Definitely knuconceptz is the way to go. Even if you get the Kollossus Fleks its 3.40 a ft, which means your 26 ft cost you 88.40 before shipping. Not bad for wire that can handle over 300 amps of current and is a top of the line power wire. Or like Maxim said, you can get the Klmx wire which is a lot cheaper. Battery terminals on a budget can just be ring terminals and bolts.. nothing fancy needed off the bat. Unless you have a top mount battery, then you suck... (just kidding). Thats all I gots for now. If you bitch about 1.70 a ft for 1/0 then you shouldn't be in this game, jus sayin. Have fun with the build, and remember.. you gotta pay to play.

Yeah, the real racing seats aren't supposed to be for a daily driver (comfortable) they are supposed to be safe.. You can get race style bucket seats that are still safe and for weekend warrior type set ups for decent price, and they are decently comfortable.

As you should know, its optimal performance is in a ported box. You will get results, but I don't know if they are the results you're looking for. The sealed box will have to be a bit smaller then the ported dimensions, but you can probably play with box sizes since they're small.